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  1. #1
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    May 2009
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    Default 3D printed Zero Clearance Hammer K3 Fence adapter

    Well i've been playing around designing a Zero Clearance fence adapter for my K3

    I did think about using timber, but i have a 3D printer, so why not give it a go.

    I designed it to have 3 fixing mounting points, 2 grub screws and a bolt in the end.

    I didn't find any benefit of the bolt into the end as the grub screws and the adapter pins do enough to keep it in place, i also printed a Bolt as it didn't want to risk the bolt coming loose and touching the blade.

    Anyhow here are a few pics if anyone is interested


    IMG_1199.jpgUnknown.jpegIMG_1119.jpg
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  3. #2
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    Default

    Does that hit the blade guard when the blade is lowered and what is the red thing in photo 2 used for?
    CHRIS

  4. #3
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    Hi Chris,

    It will hit the blade guard if the blade is too low, it depends on the stock being cut, it's not hard to reduce the height on the adapter.

    I think i'll do another few designs for a lowered profile, as i still need to do a 22.5 and 45 degree version.

    They are easy to remove with the grub screw.

    The Red item is just a T Nut sleeve with an embedded M8 bolt to slide in the track, i thought i'd try and use it for a sliding clamp, just need to get around to making a clamping baseplate with the ability to mount a clamp.

  5. #4
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    I have seen a lot of people using clamps on their slider and I have never used one apart from the F&F jig which is a clamp in reality. An L profile on the end fence end piece is better than a full height one.
    CHRIS

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    I have seen a lot of people using clamps on their slider and I have never used one apart from the F&F jig which is a clamp in reality. An L profile on the end fence end piece is better than a full height one.
    I'll have a look at the L Design, I tend to cut 30mm stock lately, and the current one works for me, but it doesn't take too much to adapt it in F360 to reduce the height and turn it into a L shape

    I've always just used a one of my festool MFT clamps in the slider channel when i need to clamp an item, but it hasn't always been ideal, so just playing around with clamping options

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryn23 View Post
    I'll have a look at the L Design, I tend to cut 30mm stock lately, and the current one works for me, but it doesn't take too much to adapt it in F360 to reduce the height and turn it into a L shape

    I've always just used a one of my festool MFT clamps in the slider channel when i need to clamp an item, but it hasn't always been ideal, so just playing around with clamping options
    \

    Do you use an F&F jig to hold pieces being cut?
    CHRIS

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    \

    Do you use an F&F jig to hold pieces being cut?
    I've been meaning to make one up, as it would help with this type of sliding saw with smaller stock.

    I use the clamp for when i'm using larger/longer stock that needs at bit more support when cutting on this saw.

    I'm looking at getting a longer slider and an outrigger table go turn it into a Winner Comfort, if i manage to increase my working area, i just don't like the K3 Winner setup, but it fits my current workspace and does the job

    I've done way to many hours on a outrigger sliding table saw during my time as a cabinetmaker, they are a lot better with larger and longer stock than the K3 Winner

    I think i just need a bigger shed

  9. #8
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    Feb 2006
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    Really nice work on the printing.

    One way to get the closest possible fit would be to print the pieces slightly over length, install them into the fence and then, using a high tooth count blade and moving slowly, use the saw to cut to exact size.

    Also instead of 2 grub screws a single small locking handle in the top threaded hole would probably be enough and could be handy, save going to look for a hex key and can easily check periodically for tightness.

    Just a suggestion.

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