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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,166

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    Aldav, thanks so much for the pics!

    Yep, it confirms my thoughts, there's issues on my unit that aren't really going to allow me to put back the collets that came with the unit, although with some judicious re-tapping of holes or some replacements of very oddly sized grub screws, it might work well enough.

    I'll create a separate thread for my saw and repairs. @Thesovietfox sorry for distracting you too much here - hope it was all helpful to getting your saw up and optimised! You should let us know how it's been going!

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by poundy View Post
    Aldav, thanks so much for the pics!

    Yep, it confirms my thoughts, there's issues on my unit that aren't really going to allow me to put back the collets that came with the unit, although with some judicious re-tapping of holes or some replacements of very oddly sized grub screws, it might work well enough.

    I'll create a separate thread for my saw and repairs. @Thesovietfox sorry for distracting you too much here - hope it was all helpful to getting your saw up and optimised! You should let us know how it's been going!
    All good. Info is info and it all helps. I know the guy I bought it from was cutting re claimed Jarrah sleepers on it and the blade is a little off line compared to the mitre slots so I'm going to strip it down a bit and put new bearings in, fix up a couple of niggling issues, give the top a clean up, before I start working with it.
    It's 30 years old and I have no idea if it's still got the same original bearings (aside from the motor of course).
    Going to chuck a proper switch in in a more accessible spot, not too happy with a twist on wire join in the lead.
    Leda Machinery sell a biesemeyer fence for $300+GST so will probably go that way.
    We have a blade guy we use at work so I'll get a rip and a crosscut for now and a dado later on.
    The boss gave me one of our old dusties so I'll hook that up.
    Will take a little while but should be worth it I hope

  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

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    Although the arbor bearings are not hard to replace you might as well check them first to see if they're ok. Aligning the blade to the mitre slots is a tedious chore and a few members here have their own preferred methods so make sure you post when you're ready to have a go. You won't regret investing in a quality fence.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    36

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    Bit of an update. Have polished up the top a little. Has pitting In the corners.
    Adjusted the wings and levelled it out.
    Adjusted the saw blade to run true to the mitre slots.
    Went to install the blade guard/splitter set up and ran into another issue. The rear attachment wont fit around the rear fence rail. Will try tonight to space out with a nut or two. The blade guard is all metal, runs almost the length of the table and weighs more than the fence.
    Speaking of which, had a look inside the fence mechanicals. Looks like a busted rubber grommet, spring has had it. No bushings or spacers to keep it true.
    Only way to get at those parts is to remove two bolts or pins that in not familiar with.
    I can use the fence but i have to adjust the back every time i lock it down. Will upgrade that when funds permit.

    Also an issue with the insert. If any pressure is applied to front or back the whole thing tips.
    Going to drill a hole for a pin at the back and make my own inserts.




    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

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    If you can get that fence to be half decent you're a better man than me. I persevered with it for a long time, constant adjustments, realignments and replacement of parts to no avail. The fact that the rear of the fence only locks to the smooth round rail via a smooth steel locking arm means it has virtually no chance of staying put if even light side pressure is exerted on it. It truly is a piece of c@#p.

    The splitter and blade guard mechanism is likewise more of a hindrance than a help. If you want to do anything other than a full depth cut you have to remove it and once you do reinstalling and aligning it is a right PITA. I use timber guide strips glued into the back of the zero clearance inserts in lieu of the splitter or a riving knife. They work ok. I did have above table dust extraction installed prior to getting the Incra fence, but the attachment point went with the original fence rails, haven't got around to rebuilding it to date. Must get around to that, it really is a necessity.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    36

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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    If you can get that fence to be half decent you're a better man than me. I persevered with it for a long time, constant adjustments, realignments and replacement of parts to no avail. The fact that the rear of the fence only locks to the smooth round rail via a smooth steel locking arm means it has virtually no chance of staying put if even light side pressure is exerted on it. It truly is a piece of c@#p.
    I have no intention of messing around trying to fix it any better than it is. I can recognise a lost cause when I see one. just has to me through a couple of pays. Could probably start selling my triton stuff now too.

    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    The splitter and blade guard mechanism is likewise more of a hindrance than a help. If you want to do anything other than a full depth cut you have to remove it and once you do reinstalling and aligning it is a right PITA. I use timber guide strips glued into the back of the zero clearance inserts in lieu of the splitter or a riving knife. They work ok. I did have above table dust extraction installed prior to getting the Incra fence, but the attachment point went with the original fence rails, haven't got around to rebuilding it to date. Must get around to that, it really is a necessity.
    I have been having a look at the microjig inserts, but that's just more money. your idea bears looking into. Where did you get the flooring material you used for the inserts if you dont mind me asking?

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

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    Quote Originally Posted by thesovietfox View Post
    Where did you get the flooring material you used for the inserts if you dont mind me asking?
    From memory it came out of the bin at Harvey Norman flooring.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
    Posts
    4,677

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    This is how I made one which is similar in theory to the Microjig inserts. I have never used it as fortunately the splitter on my saw rises and falls with the blade so I have made the steel splitter just shy of the top of the blade so it is never a hinderance.
    The only drawback with the fixed insert is you can only do 90° cuts unless you make throat plates for all the different angles you want to cut and put the insert in on those angles.

    IMG_20200122_192818.jpg
    Dallas

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    3

    Post Baker 12" Contractor Saw Manual

    Hi David, This may be a long shot nonetheless here I go. I am from Australia and have just purchased a Baker 12" contractor saw and unfortunately I am unable to find a User Manual for it. I know your post is from year 2011 but I am hoping you still have a copy of the manual you offered Lexus. Is it possible you could get a copy of it to me please?

    SmadaG

  11. #25
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

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    I don't have the manual anymore, or if I do I can't find it. These saws haven't changed much over the past 30 years so if you download the manual for the SB-12 from the Hare and Forbes site here - Just a moment... - you'll find that there are some changes, but they're mainly minor, and the mechanical basis of the saw hasn't changed over the years.

    These saws are pretty simple, but the fact that they're basic means that making minor adjustments, for instance blade parallel to the mitre slots, can be a PITA. Something else that's easily missed is the eccentric shaft (#48 on the parts drawing) is how the blade rise mechanism gear meshing is adjusted. There's quite a bit of further information on the forum on these saws if you do a bit of a search.

    Cheers,
    David

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