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  1. #1
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    May 2013
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    Default Baker machinery 305mm

    Hi all. Need some advice. Looking at a Baker Machinery 305mm tablesaw.
    Contractor saw. 2 1/2hp singlephase.
    It's going for a few hundred. Only really want a placeholder until I can afford a proper cabinet saw.
    Does anyone know anything about these saws? What's a comparable saw that I can look up. Only found one post on here that didn't really help.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Albury
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    Have you got a picture? Are you sure it's 2-1/2 hp? 2hp or 3hp is more likely. I can just about guarantee that it's a generic 'made in Taiwan' saw that was sold under many brand names in the 90's and 00's. Mine is branded 'Jonnesway'. If you need a manual I've got one.

    If it's got all its original bits and pieces it probably only needs a decent fence to enable it to be a good user. At the price you're quoting there's a good chance it's excellent value. There's a recent thread on here 'Beginner table saw considerations' (18th December) that might help you. If you search Australia wide on Gumtree you'll probably see saws identical or very similar to the one you're looking at.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South Australia
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    Default

    Has 2 1/2 stamped on the build plate. But the motor is 1.5kw which would be a 2hp.
    Also looks like the motor is a replacement from the original.
    Has fence, wings, splitter, blade guard. Sharpish blade.
    Not sure if it's supposed to come with any more?
    That manual would sure come in handy, cheers.
    Looks like a decent upgrade from the triton.
    I just picked it up to make sure I didn't lose it to a second buyer

  5. #4
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    May 2011
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    Albury
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    Is it green? If you can post a couple of pics it would be pretty easy to confirm that it is what I suspect it is. Way better than a Triton.

    If it is the same as mine I can copy the manual and email it to you. Back home just after New Year.

    Cheers,
    David

  6. #5
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    May 2013
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    South Australia
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    Default

    Screenshot_20191228-214939.jpgScreenshot_20191228-214924.jpg

    Best i can do till tomorrow. Definitely green.
    Now looking at fences to upgrade.
    Screenshot_20191228-215511.jpgScreenshot_20191228-215531.jpg
    Got it for $300.
    Will yours take a dado?
    I had a quick look underneath and there is about an inch of thead left.

  7. #6
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    Albury
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    There's a few minor differences, but that's the twin brother of my saw. It will take a dado stack. You're correct that that isn't the original motor. My saw also has the round rails and unless the fence is outstandingly better than mine it'll be a piece of junk. How do you turn it on and off? There's just that big piece of chipboard where the switch used to be.

  8. #7
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    The switch has been moved to the lower cabinet, gaps filled in etc and dust box fitted with 100mm port, which will hook up to the 1hp dusty my boss gave me when we sold the edge banter.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    You're correct that that isn't the original motor. My saw also has the round rails and unless the fence is outstandingly better than mine it'll be a piece of junk.
    How does the fence lock? Does it lock on both the front and rear rails?
    At least it has got a good Aussie motor on it which would have been about half the price of what you paid for the whole unit.
    Dallas

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    Does it lock on both the front and rear rails?
    Sort of, that's part of the problem with it.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    How does the fence lock? Does it lock on both the front and rear rails?
    At least it has got a good Aussie motor on it which would have been about half the price of what you paid for the whole unit.
    I believe it is "supposed" to lock at both ends. The spring had just about disintegrated in the mechanism.
    I swapped it with a new spring I had lying around.
    There is a fair amount of play in it. Even done up as tight as possible. The far end of the fence will move about 5mm in each direction with light to medium hand pressure.
    I see the fence carbatec sell are marked down to $349
    Heavy Duty Tablesaw Fence & Rails | Accessories - Carbatec
    I didn't really want to spend that much on it (more than I paid for the saw). But 1) it's cheaper 2) Got to be easier than making one 3) there doesnt seem to be anything else available.

  12. #11
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    Where does the movement come from, does the locking mechanism move around when locked or does the fence itself flex?

  13. #12
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    It locks down fine at the front, the rear is another matter altogether. The fence itself being a light and narrow aluminium extrusion is a big part of the problem. Despite much fettling I found I could never rely on the fence to lock down square and there was never a guarantee that it would stay there through the cut. So for accurate work a lot of measuring and clamping of the back end of the fence was necessary. Very tedious.

  14. #13
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    Is it possible to replace the fence with a heavier aluminium extrusion or even RHS steel? My saw doesn't lock at the rear and I never have trouble with it flexing. I have one of these but unfortunately they appear to be no longer available.

  15. #14
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    South Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    Is it possible to replace the fence with a heavier aluminium extrusion or even RHS steel? My saw doesn't lock at the rear and I never have trouble with it flexing. I have one of these but unfortunately they appear to be no longer available.
    That appears to be the same one carbatec sells

  16. #15
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    Right, got home late yesterday. Had a look for the table saw manual, but if I ever had one I can't find it, might have been thinking of the jointer/thicknesser manual. All is not lost however, I do have this - https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1022proz_m.pdf - in my archives. Although this manual is for 10" saws there is effectively no difference in the architecture to the 12" models. My saw (build date 6/96) is most closely aligned to the G1022Z model and that would appear to be the case for your saw too foxy. Brett (poundy) your saw is obviously a later model, but I'd be surprised if there are any significant mechanical differences.

    Following are a couple of shots of my saw
    - the paddle off no-load switch , that can be activated with the knee, is one of the most useful active safety items I've added, highly recommended; the Incra fence is a fabulous bit of kit, but pretty exxy.
    - a couple of pic's of the tilt mechanism and the front of the rise and fall mechanism for you Brett. I'll try and post some better ones this arvo with arrows and explanations. You'll notice that I've packed out the front of the rise and fall handwheel shaft with some washers to get it to lock properly.
    - a couple of shots of the high density MDF (?) flooring that I use to make zero clearance inserts. It's 8mm thick and very stable. You may need to use some masking tape as shim. I tapped a 6mm thread in the cast iron supports in the table opening to screw it down. Use it smooth side up.

    In the Grizzly manual they recommend automotive wheel bearing grease or similar on the blade trunnions and the the rise and fall and tilt worm gears, yuk! (I use a paste wax on the trunnions and candle wax on the worm gears).

    Last of all if you're looking for a replacement fence don't forget this guy - Biesemeyer style table saw fence | Power Tools | Gumtree Australia Blacktown Area - Schofields | 1234975828 - bugger, looks like his ad has expired. I remember he was at Schofields, hopefully he'll relist it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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