Thread: Blade guard problems on GPW 10/12" Table Saw (WOODMAN SB-12 TABLE SAW)

I took it off and threw it away. Works for me. I also cut down the riving knife so I can do trenching type cuts and use a crosscut sled so I can't put the guard back on anyway.

I removed the original handle and just put a bolt through as you don't need to loosen it to pivot the guard. This allows you to get the fence at least closer to the blade.
I am also considering removing it and altering the riving knife as NCArcher has done.

Originally Posted by Treecycle

I removed the original handle and just put a bolt through as you don't need to loosen it to pivot the guard. This allows you to get the fence at least closer to the blade.
I am also considering removing it and altering the riving knife as NCArcher has done.

The idea of using a bolt seems the way to go. It is a really good saw but they must have got the engineers blind grandmother to design the blade guard.

I did the same as NCarcher!

Originally Posted by Treecycle

I removed the original handle and just put a bolt through as you don't need to loosen it to pivot the guard. This allows you to get the fence at least closer to the blade.
I am also considering removing it and altering the riving knife as NCArcher has done.

+1 for using a bolt. I have also added a threaded knob on the opposite side to make tightening easier. I like the idea of using the blade guard whenever I can and will keep the riving knife however I will make up a shorter one for trenching also. I also like see through blade guards. This is another thing I think the engineer's grandmother designed! A project on my list is to make one up to replace it. I am thinking a rectangular box frame with polycarbonate windows, dust outlet etc.

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I deemed mine useless and chucked it out and replaced it with a microjig splitter

Cheers,
Nick

Are the Microjig splitter systems available in Aus, or did you get yours shipped from the US. How much do they cost?
I had a look at their site and they look quite good. Do they ever pull out as shown on their video?

Originally Posted by Treecycle

Are the Microjig splitter systems available in Aus, or did you get yours shipped from the US. How much do they cost?
I had a look at their site and they look quite good. Do they ever pull out as shown on their video?

I think that I bought mine from Incra in the states, along with the GRRRriper. Both are excellent to use, have not had the splitter pill out.

Cheers,
Nick

Originally Posted by nummins

I deemed mine useless and chucked it out and replaced it with a microjig splitter

Cheers,
Nick

How do you find them with stock of greater thickness ie. over twice the height of the splitter? Any issues with the high edge of the wood tilting towards the blade and kicking back?

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Well I bit the bullet today and did what I had planned to do for a while - I modified my riving knife.
I drilled holes in the knife so that I can get to the grubscrews for adjusting it without taking it off. The knife is made from really good spring steel, so drilling it with normal HSS drills is not an option. Luckily I has a solid carbide drill about 8mm dia and was able to get through with that. While I had it off, I did as NCArcher did and cut the top off just below the top of the blade. If need be, I can drill another hole back in the top and refit the guard. This would just reduce the maximum thickness I could cut if the guard was on.
Lining the splitter up with the blade is so much easier now. Just lay a straight edge across the blade and check the alignment. Adjust the grubscrews if required through the splitter, and then tighten the locknut.

Splitter_holes.jpg Splitter_setup.jpg

Originally Posted by Treecycle

Well I bit the bullet today and did what I had planned to do for a while - I modified my riving knife.
I drilled holes in the knife so that I can get to the grubscrews for adjusting it without taking it off. The knife is made from really good spring steel, so drilling it with normal HSS drills is not an option. Luckily I has a solid carbide drill about 8mm dia and was able to get through with that. While I had it off, I did as NCArcher did and cut the top off just below the top of the blade. If need be, I can drill another hole back in the top and refit the guard. This would just reduce the maximum thickness I could cut if the guard was on.
Lining the splitter up with the blade is so much easier now. Just lay a straight edge across the blade and check the alignment. Adjust the grubscrews if required through the splitter, and then tighten the locknut.

Splitter_holes.jpg Splitter_setup.jpg

Nice work. Good tip about the HSS bit not doing the job. Looks like an excuse to go out and get a solid carbide bit! The access holes would improve things heaps. It's a mandatory mod in my book.

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