Blade stabilisation

**Arron** · 12th September 2012, 12:34 PM

I have one of those Major Woodworking 10/12 inch cabinet saws (same as the Gary Pye version). I'm very happy with it and the way it performs - however, in the usual way of things, I'm always interested in whether I can make it better. For trim work I use an 8 inch CMT 80 tooth crosscut blade. I suspect the cuts are not as neat as they could be. There are blade marks on the surface of a cut. I remember that I briefly had an 8 inch 120 tooth Bosch blade on my old tablesaw (before it hit a nail) which used to leave the surface looking like it had just been planed - thats what I want again. The CMT blade wasnt particularly expensive, but around twice the price of the Bosch, so I dont think its strictly a 'you get what you pay for thing'.

I have a separate blade for ripping, so I can have a blade that is 100% specialised for trim and crosscut.

So four questions :
1. are CMT blades usually like this ?
2. any other recommendations for a really good blade?
3. In the Freud catalog is blade LU1G, which is described as suitable for fine cutting without scratching 'in order to achieve a perfectly smoothed surface'. Problem is it is decribed as limited to softwoods. Anyone familiar with these, and know whether they can be used on woods like blackwood or silky oak (ie softer hardwoods) ?
4. and perhaps most importantly, does anyone use blade stabilisers ? If so, what are your experiences ?

cheers
Arron

**Acco** · 12th September 2012, 01:05 PM

I have a 10" 80 teeth CMT blade and CMT ripping blade as well and I don't think they are as good as they could be for the money you pay for them.

Later on I got a Freud 50 teeth combination and that leaves much superior finish than the 80 teeth blade, so I reckon if you went for a Freud you'd be pretty happy.

Checkout the reviews Stu from Stu's Shed did.

Blade Review « Stu's Shed

**Ueee** · 12th September 2012, 06:49 PM

I would suggest going to a leuco or felder blade. I use a 10" 60t ATB.....or is it 40.... I'll check, for trimming work and can easily glue up straight off the edge or just hand sand, no need to plane first. There was another couple of brands we used to use but I can't remember them right now.

**elanjacobs** · 13th September 2012, 07:17 PM

Running a Leuco 96T 12" ATB on the panel saw at work and the finish is like glass

**BobL** · 13th September 2012, 07:29 PM

I find I get my best cross cuts using a triple chip blade - they have every third tooth set one way and every third the other way and one with no set. They are usually used for cutting melamine etc but they do a great job on regular wood too.

**Ueee** · 13th September 2012, 10:00 PM

Originally Posted by Ueee

I would suggest going to a leuco or felder blade. I use a 10" 60t ATB.....or is it 40.... I'll check, for trimming work and can easily glue up straight off the edge or just hand sand, no need to plane first. There was another couple of brands we used to use but I can't remember them right now.

Yep, 60t, 20 deg ATB. I detest triple chips Bob cause they are useless for ripping, and having a panel saw means i do everything with it, rip and dock.

The brand we used mostly when i was in the trade were AKE, a German brand Cutting Edge Saws - AKE Alternate Top Bevel Panel Saw Blades —

The other was Guhdo, i think they are German too.

**Trav** · 21st September 2012, 11:29 PM

I use an infinity cross cut blade. Fabulous. But only available from the US.

Trav

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