Just bought a MJ2325B 2nd hand and need some help

**B.O.B.** · 30th March 2009, 08:58 PM

Missionaryman / Bob38S

I managed to get some time in the shed on Saturday. (Had to vacuum the whole house and mow all the lawn before hand, but then I was left alone all afternoon)

But I fixed it!

I used Bobs method. I too once had a boat and have a couple of tubes of bearing grease lying around. Here's what I did.

1. Removed the blade and the dust extraction shroud. I don't know if that was necessary, but it made it easier to access the blade support arm

2. I then disconnected the link bar between the gear wheel and blade/motor pivot arm. I was then able to test the pivot resistance, which was firm but was able to move it through the full range of movement.

3. I then removed the worm gear which came out easily. This should have left the gear wheel free to rotate. I was unable to budge it with my hands.

4. With much cursing and swearing I undid the pivot bolt that connects the gear wheel to the backing plate. Once I had it off, I could see that there was a thick washer/spacer behind the gear wheel. There was rust on the face of the spacer and the support plate. The spacer was also siezed onto the pivot bolt.

5. After freeing the spacer and cleaning the rust off all the mating surfaces, I applied liberal amounts of grease to both faces of the spacer, the pivot bolt and the face of the support bracket.

6. Once the parts were put back together ( ensuring there were no nuts or washers left over), the mechanism worked like a charm, with the full range of movement and as easily as some of the more expansive machines I have used at some of the woodworking classes I have done

Thanks again for your advice and encouragement.

Bob

**missionaryman** · 30th March 2009, 10:48 PM

Glad it worked out for you mate, and glad we could be of some help. Once this part of it starts working properly it really is a better & more satisfying tool to use.

I added the router wing from a TSC10HB to mine and I noticed how awful the finish was on the cast iron beds of this saw compared to the smooth linished surface of the router wing.

I noticed that even when I used silverglide on the saw the beds just weren't that slippery and never really looked clean. Mine also had some black corrosion stains on it from the previous user that I couldn't get off with anything. It bugged me for ages then one day I had a real good look at it and noticed that the extension wings were anything but flat so what the hell, I took to it with a very fine belt on the belt sander.
It took ages to make any sort of impact but eventually I got all the stains out and the finish started to look more like the finish on the higher quality router wing. The flatness wasn't really being affected either so I got brave and hit it with an 80 grit belt, I got the stains out pretty quick and managed to lower some of the high spots and after a lot of sanding got a smooth even finish which I then cleaned up with the finer grade belt. Now it has a mirror like finish to it like a Powermatic machine, I can honestly say it's flatter and closer to being true now than before and it slips beautifully with a bit of silverglide - huge improvement over standard.

Don't know if I've done a good thing or a bad thing but I got rid of the stains, got it flatter than before and made it smoother and more slick so I think I did a good thing.

**Bob38S** · 31st March 2009, 09:45 AM

Winners all around

Good to see as the machine is not really that bad - just needed some slight improvement - now if only the company could do something with that miserable excuse for a manual.

Regards,
Bob

Thread: Just bought a MJ2325B 2nd hand and need some help

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