Thread: Brand new Harvey HW110LGE-30 but fence won't lock in place

Your video is marked 'private' and can't be viewed. Check the settings in Youtube.

If you still have problems, post a couple of photos of the fence and the area around the locking mechanism.

Alan...

Originally Posted by Uncle Al

Your video is marked 'private' and can't be viewed. Check the settings in Youtube.

If you still have problems, post a couple of photos of the fence and the area around the locking mechanism.

Alan...

Bugger - thanks Alan, not sure how I missed that (except that I don't use youtube very often), I've changed it so should now be visible

https://youtu.be/cywpHoR0IDo

Originally Posted by Uncle Al

Your video is marked 'private' and can't be viewed. Check the settings in Youtube.

If you still have problems, post a couple of photos of the fence and the area around the locking mechanism.

Alan...

But here are some pic's anyway, showing open, part way locked and fully locked - it still moves at each setting:

Your fence appears to be quite different to mine. Might have to wait until someone who owns a Harvey saw can do a comparison between their unit and yours.
Sorry I couldn't help out.

Alan....

I think I've got the same fence as yours, but unfortunately my gear is all packed up and in storage at the moment. I'll try to get over to the storage unit tomorrow and have a look at my fence and see if I can work out what might be happening with your one. The only time I've had a similar thing happen is after I've taken the fence off and the metal flap that is meant to go between the cam and the rail has got caught up on top of the rail. Not the case for your machine obviously.

If you don't work it out be the end of the holiday weekend, Ryan from Major Woodworking has always been very helpful and responsive if I've had issues.

Cheers, Greg

Are there adjusting screws on the fence bracket where it drops down into the gap between the rail and the table?

There are 2 6mm lug screws that need to be screwed further in so that the back of the mechanism binds properly

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0691_m.pdf



See figure 119 on page 70 for details

Bookmark the site ... it is a great source of info on the Harvey saw

BTW ... there is no need to remove the fence as it says in the hand book .... the rail has two openings which coincide with the lugs ... you can insert the allen wrench from underneath and screw them in to change the angel of the fence.

Just make sure that when you are first doing this that the front screw lugs are well clear of the bar .... when you clam it and it is straight ... then set the front nylon tipped lugs to barely tough when disengaged. You will find that this back lugs ned to be micro adjusted when getting close to straight fence position ... 1/8th turn or less moves the fence thousands.

Use a dial indicator for best results... AND the 3 black plastic handle screws on the rear of the fence (holds the aluminium fence in place) SHOULD NOT be over tightened or you will warp the aluminium!!! (ask me how I know this).

Now getting the fence aligned is another task you will need to do ... PM me if you want to discuss how to do that task

Regards

Rob

Originally Posted by Uncle Al

Your fence appears to be quite different to mine. Might have to wait until someone who owns a Harvey saw can do a comparison between their unit and yours.
Sorry I couldn't help out.

Alan....

Originally Posted by Marwood

I think I've got the same fence as yours, but unfortunately my gear is all packed up and in storage at the moment. I'll try to get over to the storage unit tomorrow and have a look at my fence and see if I can work out what might be happening with your one. The only time I've had a similar thing happen is after I've taken the fence off and the metal flap that is meant to go between the cam and the rail has got caught up on top of the rail. Not the case for your machine obviously.

If you don't work it out be the end of the holiday weekend, Ryan from Major Woodworking has always been very helpful and responsive if I've had issues.

Cheers, Greg

Thanks anyway guys.

Originally Posted by 3 toed sloth

Are there adjusting screws on the fence bracket where it drops down into the gap between the rail and the table?

There sort of is, I didn't get a chance to play with it today but I have a thought that the acetyl slides may be adjustable. There are rectangular acetyl type slides at each end on the back and small (what look like) about 7-8mm adjustable acetyl bearings (or perhaps they're simply rounded acetyl slides) at each end on the front that have some adjustment to square the fence up. If the rear slides can be adjusted at all I may be able to adjust all four slides equally (or equally opposite) to bring the cam closer to the rail just enough to firm it up to lock. ,

Originally Posted by Tahlee

There are 2 6mm lug screws that need to be screwed further in so that the back of the mechanism binds properly

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0691_m.pdf



See figure 119 on page 70 for details

Bookmark the site ... it is a great source of info on the Harvey saw

BTW ... there is no need to remove the fence as it says in the hand book .... the rail has two openings which coincide with the lugs ... you can insert the allen wrench from underneath and screw them in to change the angel of the fence.

Just make sure that when you are first doing this that the front screw lugs are well clear of the bar .... when you clam it and it is straight ... then set the front nylon tipped lugs to barely tough when disengaged. You will find that this back lugs ned to be micro adjusted when getting close to straight fence position ... 1/8th turn or less moves the fence thousands.

Use a dial indicator for best results... AND the 3 black plastic handle screws on the rear of the fence (holds the aluminium fence in place) SHOULD NOT be over tightened or you will warp the aluminium!!! (ask me how I know this).

Now getting the fence aligned is another task you will need to do ... PM me if you want to discuss how to do that task

Regards

Rob

Thanks Rob, you must have posted that while I was typing and that is exactly what I am looking for, brilliant!!!. The Grizzly manual has exactly the same instructions as the Harvey manual but with perhaps another 100% plus more information, including this (in case anyone else comes up with this in a search and looks in with the same question):

Clamping pressure and parallelism
set screws on the rear side of the fence bracket adjust the clamping pressure to hold your fence securely, and position the fence parallel to the blade.
To adjust the fence clamping pressure and parallelism to the blade:


Lock Nut

Set Screws
FenceBracket


Figure 118. Fence components used to adjustfence height and squareness to table.
4. look at the gap between the fence and thetable top.
—if the gap is approximately 1⁄16" and even from the front of the table to the back, thenno additional adjustments are necessary.

Figure 119. location of set screws used to adjust fence parallelism and clamping pressure.
4. place the fence approximately 4" away fromthe blade.


-70-

Model G0690/G0691 (Mfg. 11/10+)


Rear RailFoot


1.2.3.

disCoNNECt thE saW FroM poWEr!
remove the fence.
Equally adjust the set screws shown inFigure 119 on the rear side of the front bracket as necessary until the clamping pres-sure is strong enough that the fence will notmove as pressure is applied against it.

Originally Posted by Larks

Thanks anyway guys.


There are rectangular acetyl type slides at each end on the back and small (what look like) about 7-8mm adjustable acetyl bearings (or perhaps they're simply rounded acetyl slides) at each end on the front that have some adjustment to square the fence up. If the rear slides can be adjusted at all I may be able to adjust all four slides equally (or equally opposite) to bring the cam closer to the rail just enough to firm it up to lock. ,

YES, you are very hot .... the lug screws in the back of the fence slider are the ones that you use to bring the "rectangular acetyl type slides at each end on the back" forward to engage the back of the rail .....

The lug screws are allen screws with 6mm drives ..... start off and clam the fence as you have been doing .... THEN screw the lug scres in until you feel them contact the "rectangular acetyl type slides at each end on the back" .
It does't take much to tighten so that when engaged the fence does not move ... if you release the clamp and it still is hard to ove then you have over tightended the back lugs ...READ the Grizley manual ... It's a HARVEY in another coat!!!

Rob

Originally Posted by Larks

Thanks Rob, you must have posted that while I was typing and that is exactly what I am looking for, brilliant!!!. The Grizzly manual has exactly the same instructions as the Harvey manual but with perhaps another 100% plus more information, including this (in case anyone else comes up with this in a search and looks in with the same question):

Youre welcome .... Just be sure to back out the front screws and set them after the clamping is working OK and 100% aligned. The front screws only just barely contact the rail when sliding and are away from the rail when clamped.

If you use a dial indicator and the far side of the fence moves when you tighten the clamp then the cause if the front screws ... you will know what I mean after the 3rd hour of aligning ... and then it will all become clear

You need to set the pressure so that the handle goes down with no real effort (just a soft press) ... if it is hard to fold down then you have overtightened the rear lugs, ... I put some petroleum jelly on the clamp cam face to make it smooth.

Have a banana

Rob

1) If you get under the saw you will see that there is a gap between to cabinet and the table top... fill the gaps with dense foam and place cardboard over the hairy sclot around the height adjusting wheel ...... and you will find that the dust collector works much better ... draws much more air from the blade opening.

2) Get a decent blade asap

Thanks again on all counts Rob. I've bought the Dado set with the saw but haven't yet done any research on general saw blades to replace the OEM one so, to be honest, don't yet know as much about them as I'd like.

From the little bit of reading that I've done I'd been thinking of ordering something like a Freud Premier Fusion 40T through ebay for a general purpose blade until I come up with any projects that require a more specialised blade.....I haven't even done a search through the forum here yet (rest assured that I'll be doing that as soon as I hit post here).................so would be very appreciative of any other advice in that regard.

Originally Posted by Larks

Thanks again on all counts Rob. I've bought the Dado set with the saw but haven't yet done any research on general saw blades to replace the OEM one so, to be honest, don't yet know as much about them as I'd like.

From the little bit of reading that I've done I'd been thinking of ordering something like a Freud Premier Fusion 40T through ebay for a general purpose blade until I come up with any projects that require a more specialised blade.....I haven't even done a search through the forum here yet (rest assured that I'll be doing that as soon as I hit post here).................so would be very appreciative of any other advice in that regard.

Good blade ... but I thought they only came in 5/8ths and not the 30mm you need.

What dado set did you get?

Regards

Rob