Thread: Carbatec TS-C250P blade alignment help

0.32mm what's your problem you would lucky to get that saw any better.

Originally Posted by China

0.32mm what's your problem you would lucky to get that saw any better.

Sorry China but I have to strongly disagree, I have the same saw and a digital mitre slot/blade alignment gauge, I get zero-zero front and back without issue from the day I received it.

0.32mm is not good enough in my opinion period.

Originally Posted by lemerv

I have also removed the two grub screws (thanks EagerBeaver71 for posting about these grub screws in your other thread).

Hi Mate, can you post a picture of the grub screws so I know were talking about the same thing as I only have one grub screw located in the bottom left corner under the securing bolt. If there are two I suspect they have updated some kind of design on the saw which I'm unaware of however, I've never heard of a cabinet saw which uses two grub adjustment set screws. Even Saw-Stop only have one grub screw in the same location.

Originally Posted by lemerv

What happens is I zero the front of the blade, move the gauge to the back, zero that out only to find the front is now out by ~0.32mm. I’ve tried tapping on various sides of the table but it always does this.

Have you checked to make sure there is nothing catching on the four holes?. With the grub screw(s) removed and all four bolts very loose you should be able to move the iron top in all directions left/right/up/down without any issue.

Originally Posted by lemerv

Upon closer inspection it looks to me like the holes in the cabinet (which are over-sized to allow for the table adjustment) are simply not positioned correctly as the bolts are hard up against the edge of the holes.

If the holes are not positioned correctly then you have two options, Ask for a replacement saw or widen the hole thats hitting the bolt or bolts.

The way I align mine is I loosen the grub set screw and all bolts apart from the bottom left corner, with this one I leave hand tightened, I then use a mallet to knock on the bottom right of the table or top until the alignment reads zero.

Sure thing. First image is bottom left (grub screw removed. Second is top right, grub screw in place.




Nothing catching as far as I can see. With all four bolts removed the table moves around just fine and I can dial it in to zero-zero, but then can’t get the bolts back in since they aren’t aligned with the holes anymore.

Originally Posted by China

0.32mm what's your problem you would lucky to get that saw any better.

I also disagree. If we were talking about the flatness of the machined top, then sure I would expect it to be within a certain tolerance but not perfect. But this is simply a matter of lining up holes correctly.

I guess the analogy is mounting a door in a frame. If the door is the right size, you just have to ensure you mount your hinges correctly for it to close without catching the frame. If it does catch the frame, then you messed up your hinge holes, but there is nothing wrong with the door.

In this case it seems like the location of the holes is not right. Otherwise I see no reason not to be able to achieve zero-zero. Even if the mitre slot is curved I should still be able to get zero-zero as it is just two contact points I’m working with.

Originally Posted by lemerv

Nothing catching as far as I can see. With all four bolts removed the table moves around just fine and I can dial it in to zero-zero, but then can’t get the bolts back in since they aren’t aligned with the holes anymore.

Yep the holes are not aligned correctly if that's the case. I would see what their guru have to say but the only way I can see fixing it is widening the offending hole or holes. I'll shoot you a PM with my name and number so you can mention that I have the same saw purchase back in 2019 when you speak to Carbtec on Monday.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Yep the holes are not aligned correctly if that's the case. I would see what their guru have to say but the only way I can see fixing it is widening the offending hole or holes. I'll shoot you a PM with my name and number so you can mention that I have the same saw purchase back in 2019 when you speak to Carbtec on Monday.

That’s the only thing I can think of at this stage. Appreciate your help.

Will report back once I’ve spoken to carbatec

Update: spoke to Carbatec and they asked me to try a few more things, otherwise gave me permission to bore the holes. I did try some more but in the end just bit the bullet and bored all the holes. I think they are 12mm out of the factory - I bored them out to 14mm. Sure enough, as soon as I did this I was able to get zero-zero alignment in about 2 minutes.

So it was definitely the holes. Carbatec acknowledged this. I will point out that they were receptive and helpful throughout the process, so no faults there.

Anyway, for anyone else who comes up against this issue, give Carbatec a call.

As for the saw overall, I've finished calibrating everything. As EasgerBeaver has mentioned in other posts, I have been able to get everything near-perfectly dialled in, which is good. Yet to actually make a cut though since I have crap everywhere as the sparky just finished installing all the GPOs and I now have to install the lighting - thought best not to try my first cut in the dark

Glad to hear you got it sorted mate.

Good to hear.

I had some issues back in July and didn't realise the grub screws existed until I completely disassembled the saw. One of the grub screws were misaligned in my case and I didnt bother refitting that one once all bolts were tight.

Carbatec C250P Blade Alignment

I managed to get alignment to 0.01mm.

Originally Posted by samo

Good to hear.

I had some issues back in July and didn't realise the grub screws existed until I completely disassembled the saw. One of the grub screws were misaligned in my case and I didnt bother refitting that one once all bolts were tight.

Carbatec C250P Blade Alignment

I managed to get alignment to 0.01mm.

Yep I read your thread before buying the saw so knew what to look for. I didn’t replace either of my grub screws. They don’t seem to serve any purpose once the four main bolts are tightened. My guess is they are put there during manufacture to hold the table in place while they drill and bore the main holes. Bolts then go straight in leaving the grub screws in place.

Originally Posted by lemerv

My guess is they are put there during manufacture to hold the table in place while they drill and bore the main holes. Bolts then go straight in leaving the grub screws in place.

Strangely enough the very expensive Saw Stop machines have the same set screws aswell only accessible by removing the table bolts. I'll have to look further into one of the Saw Stop manuals and hopefully that can shed some light onto what they're for exactly.

How are you finding the Carbatec so far Lemerv?. Did you get the high-low fence version or the t-glide one?.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Strangely enough the very expensive Saw Stop machines have the same set screws aswell only accessible by removing the table bolts. I'll have to look further into one of the Saw Stop manuals and hopefully that can shed some light onto what they're for exactly.

How are you finding the Carbatec so far Lemerv?. Did you get the high-low fence version or the t-glide one?.

Saw is good so far. I don’t really have anything to compare it to but no complaints at this stage. I got the t-glide - it’s solid with no flex which is nice.

Originally Posted by lemerv

Saw is good so far. I don’t really have anything to compare it to but no complaints at this stage. I got the t-glide - it’s solid with no flex which is nice.

Before I had the Carbatec I was using a 10inch contractor saw, the difference is huge. The beizamire fence is a tried and tested design, thats why its used on almost all cabinet saws. The only thing I've done with mine is make an aluminium fence which clamps onto the side, its longer and more accurate than the plastic glide.