Thread: Carbon coating your table saw surface

Originally Posted by barri

They don't offer free shipping even in contiguous North America but you're right there's no way known a USA company would ship to Australia for free except if you're an Amazon prime member or they inflate the price to include delivery and don't tell you.

Just a follow up. They now produce there own version of WD40 they claim is much better as well as their own scotch brite pads for cleaning off rust. While I fully endorse their carbon coating and carbon glide products, I can't say I'll be rushing to buy these addons. Scotch brite pads of various grits are sold at places like Timbecon and Sydney tools and easy to get on line and WD40 works fine for me. Anyway here's the video

THE NEW WAY to remove rust from cast iron tools! - YouTube

I actually get free shipping from a Digikey an NA company. Min spend i for these guys is about $200 to get express free delivery. This is pretty common in the electronics industry. Mouser does the same but they a based in China, so a bit closer.


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Originally Posted by forrestmount

It is written in as a flashing banner at the top of the web page

I stand corrected and apologise but my chrome browser at the time of order didn't have this banner but firefox does now. Go figure

Originally Posted by BMKal

I've got some leftover Autoglym ceramic coating out in the shed. Was going to use it on the wife's car, but it is probably wasted on a Camry that keeps bumping into things. Might give it a try on table saw and band saw and see how it goes. It certainly works well on my 4WD - I have applied it about once every two years since new - the car is 11 years old now and the paint still looks like new.

Autoglym | Ultra High Definition Ceramic Coating

I've done some more research and this is looking worth investigation. I checked a sampling of the various automotive ceramic coating suppliers and they universally claimed corrosion prevention as a feature of the product. Here's a page which seemed the least hype-y to me after a quick survey: Ultracoat The Autoglym page is very short on details, fwiw, but a ceramic coating is a ceramic coating I imagine.

It seems to me the main issue would be one of adhesion, since cast iron is most definitely not the intended use and I can't find anything that speaks to the question. I did find one article about finishing cast iron to prevent rust, but they were discussing lacquers, not ceramic coatings (Clear coat sealer for cast iron). One thing they did mention that might apply is to make sure the iron is absolutely dry, even to the point of heating it for a bit and maintaining that temperature for 30 minutes or so to drive out moisture in the metal's pores, then letting it cool and then finishing it.

I look forward to hearing how it works out!

I contacted Carbon Method and the free shipping offer is America only. No surprise there!

Originally Posted by djeddy

I've done some more research and this is looking worth investigation. I checked a sampling of the various automotive ceramic coating suppliers and they universally claimed corrosion prevention as a feature of the product. Here's a page which seemed the least hype-y to me after a quick survey: Ultracoat The Autoglym page is very short on details, fwiw, but a ceramic coating is a ceramic coating I imagine.

It seems to me the main issue would be one of adhesion, since cast iron is most definitely not the intended use and I can't find anything that speaks to the question. I did find one article about finishing cast iron to prevent rust, but they were discussing lacquers, not ceramic coatings (Clear coat sealer for cast iron). One thing they did mention that might apply is to make sure the iron is absolutely dry, even to the point of heating it for a bit and maintaining that temperature for 30 minutes or so to drive out moisture in the metal's pores, then letting it cool and then finishing it.

I look forward to hearing how it works out!

its not the adhesion you need to worry about. those car products aren't designed to have 100's of meters of rough hardwood dragged over them I'd be more inclined to think they'll wear through and then re-application is a bit more tricky

So up until this carbon stuff came along what were you guys all using on you're table saws?.

Mine is due for a good clean and I usually do the same old spray WD40 on sand with 600grit then apply paste wax. I got some WD40 Specialist Silicone Lubricant which I might try as it states its helps
prevents rust and corrosion on metals, dunno how much is true?.

I’d suggest not using anything with silicone in it, can effect a lot of wood finishes negatively and leave obvious splotch marks or effect the strength of a coating.

Don't use silicone on any woodworking tools as it will transfer to your timber and ruin any finish that you apply.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

So up until this carbon stuff came along what were you guys all using on you're table saws?.

Mine is due for a good clean and I usually do the same old spray WD40 on sand with 600grit then apply paste wax. I got some WD40 Specialist Silicone Lubricant which I might try as it states its helps
prevents rust and corrosion on metals, dunno how much is true?.

I use SilberGelit (from the good folk at Felder), combined with an occasional WD40/600grit treatment.

Probably not a good idea to use silicon on your cast iron as it plays havoc with most finishes.

I've been following this thread with interest. One thing to consider with any coating - what has been on the cast iron surface previously? Cast Iron being relatively porous (compared to steel etc) will retain some of the previous coating/s in it's structure which may affect the adhesion of subsequent coatings. I think I will stick with the tried & true "Silver Glide."

Thanks guys for the heads up on the silicon, thankfully I haven't got started on cleaning it yet!.

Just reporting back after 9 months of applying Carbon Coat and the surface is still as slick and shiny as it was and doesn't need any maintenance. All I've done is occasionally wiped the surface with a microfibre cloth. Normally I would clean and wax the surface 2 to 3 times a year depending on usage and yet I feel I can go at least a year or even 18 months before it needs another coat(s). Its expensive to have it shipped here but I'm impressed enough to use it on all my cast iron surfaces. Admittedly I'm not in a high humidity area but I still used to get the odd stain using standard methods like silverglide, T9, wax etc.

Highly recommended!

you guys should watch the wood whisperer's account of this. He put some on a TS surface, stored the thing, and it got little dots of rust all over it.

if he'd have put 20 cents of superblonde shellac on it a super light cut and wiped it off later, he'd have had no rust.

But, instead, he used the event to flog how great the stuff was anyway, probably because he had a contract that said he had to do a certain number of videos to get referral revenue, bonuses or a payment to do videos in the first place.

What I say won't be well received, but most of this stuff is far more money in marketing and promotion than it ever will be in the product. there's no SDS that I can find and not much standardized testing against other options.

It's sort of like tool care in hand tools. What oil stops rust well - hydrotreated or highly refined mineral oil. it's cheap. $5 for a pint of it at the drug store and probably less at the dollar store. if you open a bottle of baby oil and it doesn't smell like anything and it's clear, it will outdo the stuff being sold in squirt bottles for 10 times the price.

mineral oil, wax and shellac. if mineral oil won't protect it, wax it. if wax won't protect it, put in the thinnest coat of light cut shellac you can manage and if it's a problem later, wipe it off with an alcohol soaked rag. it's not sexy, but it's sensible. food grade mineral oil is less than $20 a gallon here. wax used to be cheaper - but it's still cheap if you make your own and it can be just wiped on and wiped back off - it doesn't have to be tedious like furniture.

i would bet this stuff will suddenly lose a lot of its momentum - actually, the layout of the website reminds me of mvmt watches and a whole bunch of other stuff that was really a big effort in - in that example - wrapping a $2 quartz movement in a $10 watch and selling it for $150 claiming it's on sale from $200.

In 1995, i bought a ceramic paint coating for a truck that I had that was starting to look oxidized. None of this stuff is particularly new, but we call it by different names. I think that was "micro ceramic" back then. Now it's nano. the next version will be better - it'll be "pico ceramic".

Big marketing and self-reassured confirmation buys tells us we did the right thing buying into it. the ceramic coating that I bought for my car was all the rage while it was being marketed and then it disappeared. I would bet that it was some kind of common enamel that may have had a tiny bit of ceramic in the enamel as a filler, but small enough that it didn't degloss. fortunately, back then, the stuff that was a little shammy was $20 instead of $10 and not $200 instead of $20.

here's an example of what I'm mentioning about the marketing side\

"We are confident that our coatings will exceed expectations and outperform competitive products when placed side by side."

(it's pretty easy to prove things like coatings wear longer by actually just running a test, telling what it is and showing the results.)


"Best used in combination with "Hard Coat" 9h+ ceramic for wood, Top Coat acts as a semi-durable wear layer that protects the ultra-thin, ultra-hard layer of Hard Coat beneath. Together, this system provides superior protection against sun, water, and oils and other chemicals."

Wait...there's an ultra hard and ultra durable layer below, but it needs a "semi durable" top layer over it that protects it?

the SDS would let the water out of the tub quickly, I'd bet. if there's a two part system with a catalyst, one would wonder if it's much different than a two part finish of any other type, whether it's resin and hardener, or a polymer finish with an organosilane or isocyanate crosslinker. Except that stuff is available for A hundred or two per gallon - and it's definitely hard and durable. But isocyanates aren't that great, for sure.

Do they have liver pills?