Thread: How do I choose the right tablesaw?

Try
Enie Menie Miney Mo
although I am sure someone will come up with a better solution

Rgds

Originally Posted by Glenn_M

Is the 1.5HP of the Jet powerful enough?

Yes it will be. The stated HP of most table saws is a somewhat arbitary figure often just to sound nice and it will vary with what load saws are placed under. Most saws can draw more what they state. You may have to feed a saw rated at 1.5HP slower than one rated at 3 HP.

Originally Posted by Glenn_M

[*]How to I gauge the quality of the fence on a tablesaw?

Grab a large square and check how square the fence is to the blade. Move the fence several times and repeat. How easy is it to more the fence and does it lock square? How easy is it to make fine positional adjustments, or how easy is it to recalibrate square? Does the fence bend when forced? I note you are interested in an add on router table so is the fence capable of taking a router fence on its RHS?

Originally Posted by Glenn_M

[*][*]The cabinet saw seems to be better due to the weight (stability) of the unit. But as it will be mounted on a mobile base is some of this advantage lost?

A good mobile base should not lose this feature

Originally Posted by Glenn_M

[*][/LIST]OK so now we compare the MJ2325B (and variants). So I spend a night searching and reading the forum. Seems that[*]The TSC-10HB is considered superior. It would need to be at $1645 plus blade(s). Whilst I do not doubt that but at up to twice the cost of a contractor saw I dont think I can justify that for a hobby. Are the cheaper ones really that bad I should keep my Triton if I can't afford a TSC-10HB

I too suffered from this dilemma. In the end as a hobbyist I went for the Contractor saw and used the difference to buy a router extension wing, a DC, a 100 tooth fine cross-cut blade, and saftey gear. I have really hammered this saw, especially when ripping tough redgum logs from my woodpile, and despite a few probs (see below), 12 months later I do not regret making this decision and would do so again. I would also keep the Triton and use it as a metal cutting saw or sanding disc.

Originally Posted by Glenn_M

[*]There have been a few problems with the castings and flatness of the Carbatec MJ2325B but the Hafco and Ledacraft varaints do not seem to suffer from this.

My contractor saw also had some cosmetic flaws in the T-track castings which annoyed me. In the end the store gave me a 3m length of DC hose in exchange for my annoyance which I was satisfied with. Flatness is an imprortant issue and that is the first thing I checked when I opened the package.

Originally Posted by Glenn_M

[*]The single drive belts on some of the contractor saws causing some problems with slipping under load and usually fixed by adding weight to the motor. Is the same with the Jet or is their v-belt system better?

I have really loaded up my contractor saw and have not observed any slippage. Mine seems to just "cut out" before it slips.

Originally Posted by Glenn_M

[*]Jet has 5yr warranty, Sherwood has 3yr. Haven't checked the Carby / Hafco warranty yet.[/LIST]

Most main problems will occur fairly quickly - after 3 years it could to be difficult to distinguish a problem from fair wear and tear.

Originally Posted by Glenn_M

[*]The of course there is the distinct possibility I am over analysing this and that all the saws in this price bracket are of equivalent quality and any will meet the needs of a hobbyist.

I don't think you are.

The problems with my contractor saw have been small things
1) the plastic belt guard broke when it was hit by a piece of wood. This would not be an issue with the motor inside a cabinet
2) it sprays more dust around than I had hoped so I had to block up some of the openings.
3) the thread of the saw height positioning rod got jammed with sawdust and crap and forced a circlip limiter out of its slot. I had to take it apart and clean it up and replace it. I'm not sure if this would be a problem with a cabinet saw
4) The throat plate is dinged and bent from a couple of "misuse events" ie my fault. I will shortly be replacing this with a chunky slab of ally.

I hope that helps.

Thanks for taking the time for that reply Bob - really helpful.

Glenn

"The cabinet saw seems to be better due to the weight (stability) of the unit. But as it will be mounted on a mobile base is some of this advantage lost?"

Its not the actual physical weight, its the strength of the trunnion that holds the motor and blade assembly.
On a cabinet saw the trunnion is cast iron one piece and generally compact. A contractor saw has the motor outside the cabinet and mostly made with pressed steel(some are cast)and are subject to flexing.
If your worried about room a contractors saw takes up more space... and a few extra $$$$ now is long forgotten easily but a bad tool isnt!

Thanks Harry,

The Jet has cast trunnions (which partly explains the +$400 compared to other 10" contractor saws and 5yr warranty I 'spose). I don't know for sure the others but it sounds like this is something I need to look for: Thanks mate.

1 - Cast Trunnion

I am intrigued by the comment that a contractor saw takes up more space. I was comparing the table sizes where the cabinet saws have larger tables - hence my thinking of largers space. But the motor generally pokes out the back right? So that would need to be added on the depth of the saw. Good point. When I go look at some I guess that will become apparent.

The point on the few extra $ is taken. It's not that I don't want to spend the money, it's that I don't want make a mistake an buy the wrong machine.


So at the moment looks like its the Jet 10" Contractor or a MJ2325B (or more likely the Hafco SB10H) that are the contenders.

Thanks for the comments

Glenn

Timbecon's sale (today and tomorrow "only") is advertising a couple of TS cheaper than usual - the TSC10HB is down to less than $1500. There's others as well on sale. Of course delivery cost is a PITA from them but if you can wait until the show(s), then you can get a similar price and let them bring em over.

Rob

There is no easy answer to this question - what can you afford? What features do you want - sliding table or fixed etc?
I have a crowded garage and an older model jet supersaw with sliding table - it is mounted on stand that allows it to be moved both around and out of the garage. It is rock solid and I have had no difficulty in cutting jarrah - crosscut and ripping. It is a very accurate saw. I am in northern Melbourne and bought locally - if you want details let me know.
regards,

Thanks for the input Smithy,
My question was more - Once I decide what I want, how do I choose amongst all the offerings that have the required attributes.

I have pretty much convinced myself that the Jet 10" contractor saw is the way to go. Would be interested to know where you got your Jet.

Thanks

Glenn

Originally Posted by mcarthur

Timbecon's sale (today and tomorrow "only") is advertising a couple of TS cheaper than usual - the TSC10HB is down to less than $1500. There's others as well on sale. Of course delivery cost is a PITA from them but if you can wait until the show(s), then you can get a similar price and let them bring em over.

Rob

Trust me Rob, I thought about that. But I don't have a 15A circuit available and either the cost to transport or the wait until Oct is probably a deal breaker too.
Thanks all the same.

Glenn

I bought the jet economy contractor saw and bolted in a freud blade from same place. (woodworking warehouse in Braeside. Boys were helpful and didnt carry on with rubbish sales pitch. but they did plug it in and run it without even being asked.)

It has steel wings but since you will replace one with a router table as I have already done, and the other one is really only support it shouldnt matter.

Cuts straight quiet and smooth, just about have to touch blade to know its running, and assembly was quick with next to no adjustment required.

I am no expert but I would do the same again if I had the chance.

Cheers

Bryan.