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Thread: Cleaning cast iron tablesaw top
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2nd September 2022, 10:42 AM #1Senior Member
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- Mar 2011
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Cleaning cast iron tablesaw top
so following my purchase help thread Second hand buying advice
here's the saw:
6ec676f8-ae43-44f3-8a9f-501534cad0b8.JPGBench Saw 2.jpeg
After i got home it was pretty late, so i covered everything in the trailer with a tarp to unload the next day.... it rained overnight and looks like there was a tiny hole in the tarp so ended up with a nice patch of orange on one of the wings too. sorry no pictures of this.
So out came the orbital sander and an abrasive pad. bit of wd40 for the 1st pas, then turps for the second and 3rd and most of the rust is off. I'm a little limited on space since my space is storing a bunch of furniture we need to sell but i aim to take the wings off and clean up the edges and re-align them (there is a slight edge you can feel on the seem - visible in a pic below)
After the cleanup, here it is with a coat of silberglide to protect it - even before the coat it was very smooth and slick
IMG_3713.jpg
you'll notice there is still some staining from when things were left on it for storage
IMG_3714.jpgIMG_3715.jpg
and i assume the really dark spot is pitting.
Wondering if anyone has recommendations for cleaning up the staining and if i should be doing something else to it from a chemical perspective to prevent any further damage/rust
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2nd September 2022 10:42 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd September 2022, 11:42 PM #2
Depends on how fussy you want to be about it. I don't see any rust on it so that would do me.
Regards
John
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3rd September 2022, 07:38 AM #3
I guess if you can be bothered a bit of old fashioned rubbing with sandpaper would remove those stains.
Ive recommissioned a lot of old machinery, most has rust on the top surfaces.
Cast Iron seems to get an initial layer of rust but rarely pits.
I usually scrape that off by hand and then using whatever worn out paper I have and a block sand it dry.
Dirty work but doesn’t take long.
I’d use 150/180 grit worn but not worn out initially then 220/240.
I then wax etc by hand.
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
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3rd September 2022, 09:49 PM #4
That “stain” is essentially micro-pitting caused by rust. The only way to remove it is to abrade through it; or you could just give it a savage ignoring to because it is purely cosmetic.
Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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7th September 2022, 04:38 PM #5Member
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I've had a few iron machine tops that have pitted after being left way too long. I have normally ground the surface with a 3M mit and applied a protective coat (now using U-beaut wax). But I'm wondering now if I could treat bad pitting chemically just as I do before painting...after grinding with mit, blow off, wipe off, apply the POR degreaser, wash off with water, apply the POR rust neutraliser, "wash" again. Then the protective wax etc.
Washing the iron top with water feels counter intuitive I know. One might add a little water, scrub and wipe, rather than waving a hose if you get me.
Gregg.
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17th September 2022, 02:29 AM #6
If the staining ever got the better of you then I would suggest doing a search for surface grinding in your area. I did the same recently for a cast iron router table that had a small hump behind the router plate. It's a TS extension wing type router table.
685*410mm. Lads only charged me $100 and the thing came back looking good as new. I was expecting to pay double or triple that. Best to call them as most of the metal engineering type workshops dont really have an online presence.
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