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  1. #16
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    May 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aussiephil View Post
    I have a 30t Glue line rip in full kerf and it can slow down at that depth of cut on really hardwood
    I've got that blade and while it does an excellent job with thinner stock (up to 25mm in softer woods) I wouldn't go beyond 19mm in any of the harder woods. It's really only designed for ripping timber to glue up in to panels, not as a general purpose rip blade.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Canberra - West Belco
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    60
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    I've got that blade and while it does an excellent job with thinner stock (up to 25mm in softer woods) I wouldn't go beyond 19mm in any of the harder woods. It's really only designed for ripping timber to glue up in to panels, not as a general purpose rip blade.
    I'd agree and the 30T glue line is only max cut to 1" by Freud, and you can tell as soon as you go up in cut depth

    The LM72M10 with 24T however has a suggested max at 2 3/4" and is in my shopping cart right now

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Berowra Waters
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    1,208

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    Just buy blades that are slightly thicker than your riving knife, it will be easier than trying to buy another riving knife. A rip blade, in 300 diameter, should be around 24 teeth maximum. Set it as high as it will go, as high as the saw will wind it up. Use a push stick when the timber is near the end of the cut, push the piece thats against the fence.

  5. #19
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    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
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    2,383

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aussiephil View Post
    The LM72M10 with 24T however has a suggested max at 2 3/4" and is in my shopping cart right now
    Yeah, I've used that blade for quite a number of years now, that's why I recommended it and linked to it in Amazon in post #11.

  6. #20
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    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    Just buy blades that are slightly thicker than your riving knife, it will be easier than trying to buy another riving knife. A rip blade, in 300 diameter, should be around 24 teeth maximum. Set it as high as it will go, as high as the saw will wind it up. Use a push stick when the timber is near the end of the cut, push the piece thats against the fence.
    Isn't that exactly what you said in post #14.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Somerville
    Age
    47
    Posts
    193

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    I have a lm72m010 (24t) ordered due Tuesday. Guess my thin kerf snap purchases will be useless until I can find a way to make a riving knife


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    62
    Posts
    4,140

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    I had exactly the same problem a few years ago where I was trying to rip a thick piece of Blackwood with a high tooth count blade. Didn't get far and lots of smoke.
    I asked my saw sharpening guy about it and he said what others have said, a dedicated rip blade with a low tooth count. I brought a 300mm 28 tooth Opteco blade and it cuts like a hot knife through butter. My saw is only a 2hp and running the 300mm blade, it needs to cut well.
    Dallas

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
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    Somerville
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    47
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    193

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    While my rip blade is shipping, tried the new combo blade on some cross cuts. So sharp and clean! Didnít know what I was missing!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Ferny Hills
    Age
    75
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    67

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    Hi, I had a desire to use thin kerf blades with my Minimax C26 and rather than try and find commercial solution i purchased an offcut of stainless in the appropriate thickness and hacked it into shape - see pic, it works fine and allows me to use a thin kerf ripping blade to reduce stress on the motor and save wood as well. Hope that this helps.

    Owen
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    741

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    As well as even feed rate, you need even PRESSURE toward the fence to get best cut quality. The best and safest way to do this is with a featherboard set on the infeed side, BEHIND the blade.

    See these:

    Safety


    One example of a DIY build (or you could buy commercial device)

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by RossM View Post
    As well as even feed rate, you need even PRESSURE toward the fence to get best cut quality. The best and safest way to do this is with a featherboard set on the infeed side, BEHIND the blade.
    In those vids, as far as the featherboard on the table itself is concerned I would normally call that position in "front" of the blade?

  13. #27
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    Apr 2007
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    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    In those vids, as far as the featherboard on the table itself is concerned I would normally call that position in "front" of the blade?
    Thanks Bob - I guess front and behind could be ambiguous terms.

    So - to be really clear, featherboards must be on the infeed side, between the operator and the blade. They also must not be placed in a way that would close up the cut kerf; thus they must not be placed where they exert pressure directly against the blade. And a featherboard definitely must not be placed on the outfield side, where it would cause the kerf to close up and pinch the blade.

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