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25th February 2021, 06:48 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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25th February 2021 06:48 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th February 2021, 07:12 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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25th February 2021, 07:57 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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Just buy blades that are slightly thicker than your riving knife, it will be easier than trying to buy another riving knife. A rip blade, in 300 diameter, should be around 24 teeth maximum. Set it as high as it will go, as high as the saw will wind it up. Use a push stick when the timber is near the end of the cut, push the piece thats against the fence.
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25th February 2021, 08:20 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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25th February 2021, 08:22 PM #20GOLD MEMBER
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26th February 2021, 07:10 AM #21Senior Member
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- Sep 2019
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- Somerville
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I have a lm72m010 (24t) ordered due Tuesday. Guess my thin kerf snap purchases will be useless until I can find a way to make a riving knife
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26th February 2021, 10:40 AM #22
I had exactly the same problem a few years ago where I was trying to rip a thick piece of Blackwood with a high tooth count blade. Didn't get far and lots of smoke.
I asked my saw sharpening guy about it and he said what others have said, a dedicated rip blade with a low tooth count. I brought a 300mm 28 tooth Opteco blade and it cuts like a hot knife through butter. My saw is only a 2hp and running the 300mm blade, it needs to cut well.Dallas
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26th February 2021, 07:43 PM #23Senior Member
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While my rip blade is shipping, tried the new combo blade on some cross cuts. So sharp and clean! Didn’t know what I was missing!!!
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27th February 2021, 10:12 PM #24Member
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- Aug 2016
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- Ferny Hills
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Hi, I had a desire to use thin kerf blades with my Minimax C26 and rather than try and find commercial solution i purchased an offcut of stainless in the appropriate thickness and hacked it into shape - see pic, it works fine and allows me to use a thin kerf ripping blade to reduce stress on the motor and save wood as well. Hope that this helps.
Owen
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28th February 2021, 02:14 PM #25SENIOR MEMBER
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- Apr 2007
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- Sydney
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- 749
As well as even feed rate, you need even PRESSURE toward the fence to get best cut quality. The best and safest way to do this is with a featherboard set on the infeed side, BEHIND the blade.
See these:
Safety
One example of a DIY build (or you could buy commercial device)
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28th February 2021, 02:54 PM #26.
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- Perth
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1st March 2021, 09:00 AM #27SENIOR MEMBER
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- Apr 2007
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- Sydney
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Thanks Bob - I guess front and behind could be ambiguous terms.
So - to be really clear, featherboards must be on the infeed side, between the operator and the blade. They also must not be placed in a way that would close up the cut kerf; thus they must not be placed where they exert pressure directly against the blade. And a featherboard definitely must not be placed on the outfield side, where it would cause the kerf to close up and pinch the blade.
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