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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Default Cutting tapers safely on a sawtable

    I want to cut a 22.5 degree taper, safely on my tablesaw. I have a taper jig. But have never used one.
    Most of the searching seems to be only up to 15 degrees.
    Any advice or suggestions appreciated before I jump in and do something stupid.
    Lyle

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    Mexico. Actual Mexico not Victoria.
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    Default

    Personally, I wouldn't classify 22.5° as a taper. Anyway, can you let us know what you're trying to do, size of wood, length of cut....those types of things.

  4. #3
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    Hmmm. Ok.
    I'm experimenting with an octagonal box.
    I've made the body and cut the rebate for base and for the lid.
    Now I want to make the lid. I imagined a "pizza " cut pieces glued together.
    Hence the 22.5 degree degree taper/angles.
    At the moment just scrap rescued pine for prototype
    Box is 75mm deep and segments 100mm. Diameter 240mm.
    Thanks
    Lyle.
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  5. #4
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    Default

    a taper cut is typically a small amount cut from a long object, for example off a leg.

    All you're really doing with something of that shape is mitre cuts. Your "aspect ratio" is much shorter than a taper cut. Your workpiece is much shorter, so to clamp that effectively might need more work. You could use a jig similar to the taper jig to hold the workpiece, or you could just use your mitre gauge. Of course, that depends on how you want grain on the lid; a true "starburst" will require you to make your wedges' centre axis run parallel with the grain.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Thanks all.
    I have just used my mitre guide. Worked pretty well.
    A little tweaking and it'll be ok.
    Learnt a couple of things from your replies.
    Thanks
    Lyle

  7. #6
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    Jun 2015
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    Default

    As far as I'm aware you'd probably have to make your own taper jig to achieve a 22.5° cut. Not only that but you then have a second cut that forms the base of the isosceles. In general terms I'd describe trying to do this, from solid wood, as fraught with error propagation, ball tearingly time consuming and likely futile as I'd expect the lid to start trying to dismantle itself shortly after glue up.

    Have you thought about veneering?

  8. #7
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    Default

    Here is one that was done a while ago so I'm wondering how it's holding up. Admittedly it does have a frame around it.

  9. #8
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    Default

    I would just use my mitre gauge for a 22.5° cut.

  10. #9
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    Yep, that is what I've done.
    Happy with this trial so far.
    Just using scraps of ply and rescued pine.
    I'm going to insert a circle of feature wood into the centre on the real job.
    Thanks for replies.
    Lyle
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