Thread: Daddo blade trash talk

I have a Delta 6" set.

Yesterday's handy Dado cuts: Soft Jaws for a vice, 100 mm long.
The rebates cut to exacly match the vice faces, on the bicycle bench I built for my brother,pictured straight from the saw. (Not the vee!, and of course I glued on the lip afterwards....)

For all the reasons espoused above, I don't think it possible to get a router job on a small piece as reliably and safely, but that may be due to my lack of competance with the router too.

Cheers,

P

I have very recently purchased a new saw and while I have not used a dado blade setup in any of my woodworking to date, it was an important consideration to me in my purchase. One made fully aware that there are alternative methods of achieving the same end result.I made my decision based purely and simply on the fact that I have no idea where my hobby will head in the future. I did not want to limit my options or capabilities in the future just because I made my purchase on the basis of I have no need for such a tool at the present, therefore I never will want/need such a possible setup in the future. It's a bit like buying a car or a house, damn sure you would purchase based on likely future contingencies, rather than your circumstances as they exist the day you sign the contract. And as far as I can see, I hope to have this saw for much much longer than I plan to have my current car or current house.Is it possble that this topic has perhaps revealed some who now regret the lack of such flexibility in their machinery?

Hi, I want to buy a mid-priced contractors saw, like the JPS-10, but it must be dado-set capable. Can anyone advise if this saw (or any near equivalents) can take a dado set? I keep getting inconclusive sales advice when I ring distributors ... most don't know that 5/8" is 16mm for example ...

Cheers.

Originally Posted by memoryman

Hi, I want to buy a mid-priced contractors saw, like the JPS-10, but it must be dado-set capable. Can anyone advise if this saw (or any near equivalents) can take a dado set? I keep getting inconclusive sales advice when I ring distributors ... most don't know that 5/8" is 16mm for example ...

Cheers.

memoryman, post #30 seems to suggest that it does.

Hi Big Shed, I haven't forgotten your TS comparo spreadsheet, in fact I am in the process of expanding the columns and (with your permission) transferring your information into it so that I can post it back to you.

Though if the JPS-10 fits the bill then maybe that will do me ... just need to haggle a better price than $986 plus shipping from Brisbane ...

More soon, cheers.

A dado set is perfectly safe. I have recently got the freud 8 inch set and I am very happy with it.

In my opinion for some jobs it is much better than the router table, also funnily enough although I am very comfortable with routers, cutting a dado with a dado blade feels a lot safer. I would never go without a dado blade again. They are also very good for cutting tenons, rebates, etc.

In terms of setup, it really doesnt take more than a minute or so to change the blades... but for some reason it always feels longer

regards

Marios

Just a note that 5/8" isnt 16mm......

You will find your jet is 5/8.

Originally Posted by memoryman

Hi Big Shed, I haven't forgotten your TS comparo spreadsheet, in fact I am in the process of expanding the columns and (with your permission) transferring your information into it so that I can post it back to you.

Though if the JPS-10 fits the bill then maybe that will do me ... just need to haggle a better price than $986 plus shipping from Brisbane ...

More soon, cheers.

memoryman, go for it, the more info available to people choosing a TS the better. It isn't easy to get all that information, so if we can get it all in one easily accessible place it must be a good thing.

Funnily enough, as I have said in another place, a dado blade was not high on my list of priorities when I was looking for a TS, therefore it didn't figure in my selection criteria.
Now that I have one it is a different matter, wouldn't buy another TS that doesn't take a dado set.

I find that virtually every project I do I use the dado, have just finished the stable door for SWMBO potting shed and the dado really got a work-out on that.

BTW once you get your saw, have a look at the Northwood Tools dado set, real value for money.

Originally Posted by Lignum

Thats because they arnt

Take two machines with big spinning blades. A daddo in a saw and a shaper. I know wich one is the most dangerous and not to much is made of that .

You can even get a portable eletric hand saw fitted with a daddo blade. Never tried it but it looks interesting.

It would be a very rare occasion for someone to use a dado set in a spindle. Very few spindle fences would seperate far anough for a 6 or 8" dado blade. Rebates are usually cut with a rebating head or a set of straight knives in a 3" collar. Dado's are usually cut with knives ground to correct size. Regardless of what you are using in the spindle if it is set up properly it should be guarded. Chances are you would also be using an auto feed so your digits have to be nowhere near the cutter. IMO spindle is no more dangerous than a TS with dado set.

As far as I know OHS do not allow dado sets on portable saws.

I love my Dado set and use it on nearly every job. It is quicker and more accurate than routing for trenches and you can do most in one pass so there is no multiple passes like on a router table for a deeper cut. Thakibg rebates is similarly a one cut operation. Using the saw fence is a major boon as it is quick and accurate to set up. The cuts a very clean and there is less risk of burning. The tablesaw can generally hanble larger panels than most router tables both from the point of view of size and mass(though not my case as the tablesaw is my router table).

I think the European issue is with the fact that the blade is not guarded at all times ie the start and finish of a through dado.


I do not think ther is much risk of kickback (never experienced it) but if it concerns you you can mount a short splitter. It only has to line up with the ouside of the blade next to the fence.

I would not by a tablesaw without one

Originally Posted by spartan

Just a note that 5/8" isnt 16mm......

You will find your jet is 5/8.

16 mm is 0.6299", i.e. about 5/1000" greater than 5/8". That is a pretty small difference.

Rocker

I use the dado regularly and if the saw wouldn't take one I would by pass it.
The TSC-10-HB that I use has a 3hp motor and 3 belt drive, so while the arbor has to take the dado set the motor has to be able to run it.
les

So les88, if my usage is purely to make furniture items from milled timber (and yes, I know things change in ways we least expect) ... I have no intention of sawing lumber, rail-way sleepers and the like ... so can I be confident that a 2.5 Hp motor will drive a 8" dado set in a 10" saw?

Your opinion appreciated ...

Yes, 2.5 HP is sufficient in a 10" saw.

Most cabinet saws have multiple belts which -- assuming they are the exact same size -- provide better grip on the pulleys. Most of the time anyway. It's still possible to stall the blade if you overfeed in some saws. I have done that on my old saw. A notable exception is the Powermatic PM2000 which uses a single belt similar to that in used in modern cars. This belt has multiple "ribs" (I don't know the correct technical description) which provides the same grip.

If you don't have a cabinet saw don't be discouraged but you may get some belt slippage on startup with an 8" dado which is simply a real life demonstration of Newton's first law of physics. That is, an object at rest tends to stay at rest.