Thread: Can I do this with a dado blade

For a rebate as small as you are wnting it may be better to use a router. Either in a table situation or a veneer trimmer. Ithink the router in the table version would be fast and accurate

Normally, i would use a router, but in this case I have some strong reasons for using the t/s. Its just a matter of whether there is a safety angle I've overlooked.
Cheers
Arron

The outside blades cut the timber and the inside blades chip out the cutout bits of wood. Using a chipper blade on the outside is like trying to cut timber with a 5 toothed blade.

I'm not sure if it can cut like that but it's not safe IMO.


Peter.

The rebate still won't be flat, just deeper at the side instead of the middle. How is that "not a problem?"

Cheers,
Joe

Originally Posted by Arron

The problem is it hasnt been machined very carefully and the inner blades cut slightly deeper then the outer ones, meaning the bottom of the rebate is not flat. The difference is only about 0.1 of a mm, but still not acceptable.
Arron

The thing that's been puzzling me is the difference, being about 0.1 of a mm. How can you discern such minute difference, about the thickness of a small bit of paper, as I'm sure my eyes could not detect that.

Nevertheless if this is such a problem I would take the whole set and samples of cuts made to a reputable saw sharpening service who no doubt could fix this by sharpening. I know mine, being Barry Bros in Croydon, could do it but others may be able to help you with a Sydney based firm.


Peter.

A quick swipe with a rebate plane will clean up the cut and even out the bottom. There are some other soloutions that would work also.
Do the rebate with the standard blade and do 2 cuts. No dado blade required.
Use a router.
And lastly a rebate plane.
Regards
John

Originally Posted by joe greiner

The rebate still won't be flat, just deeper at the side instead of the middle. How is that "not a problem?"

Cheers,
Joe

Its a rebate, not a dado, so the deeper part is on the inside of the rebate, not on the outside, where it would be visible as a slight gap when the items are assembled. In fact it would act as a reservoir for glue.
Cheers
Arron

Originally Posted by Sturdee

The thing that's been puzzling me is the difference, being about 0.1 of a mm. How can you discern such minute difference, about the thickness of a small bit of paper, as I'm sure my eyes could not detect that.

it probably exceeds my limited powers of expression to explain this properly, but here goes. What I'm cutting is a rebate.ultimately a piece of flat timber, very much wider then the rebate, is glued flush with the bottom of the rebate. If the deeper section is on the inside of the rebate then there is zero gap visible. Nice. If the deeper bit is on the outside of the rebate then the gap is visible. Sure its only paper thin, but its a gap that doesnt need to be there, so why have it. Sorry I cant do a diagram, but I only have a no-camera tablet and my frustration with trying to do a simple message is at critical point.

Originally Posted by Sturdee

Nevertheless if this is such a problem I would take the whole set and samples of cuts made to a reputable saw sharpening service who no doubt could fix this by sharpening. I know mine, being Barry Bros in Croydon, could do it but others may be able to help you with a Sydney based firm.


Peter.

Now thats an idea, but do they really work to that degree of accuracy?

Originally Posted by orraloon

A quick swipe with a rebate plane will clean up the cut and even out the bottom. There are some other soloutions that would work also.
Do the rebate with the standard blade and do 2 cuts. No dado blade required.
Use a router.
And lastly a rebate plane.
Regards
John

I dont have an available router table.
I also dont have a flat top tablesaw blade - though i do intend to buy one soon as they must be handy things. All the t/s blades I own have raked teeth so I get little V's in the bottom of the rebate.

Originally Posted by Arron

Now thats an idea, but do they really work to that degree of accuracy?

Gone are the days of hand sharpening with all those inaccuracies.


Where I get mine sharpened they have a big computer controlled sharpening machine which grinds/sharpen each tooth at each of the three sides and then moves on to the next tooth etc. That means that each tooth is the same size and sharpened to the correct angle and the blade is balanced.


So I would be very surprised if they could not set the machine to sharpen the outside blades and the chippers to the same diameter.


Peter.