Thread: DeWalt DW745-XE vs DCS7485N-XJ

Hi Furns,

Same as you, I'm also looking around for a table saw but I don't have as much budget as yours Anyway, not sure about the HAFCO model but the Carbatec model you mentioned above requires you to have a 15 Amp plug - which I guess you have or if not planning to install one.

Most of the inexpensive cabinet saws I have found online require 15 Amp plugs and based from the years of drooling around them, they are still the old versions of yesterday. The newer models have way better motors that would only require the normal household 10 Amp plug like the Carbatec TS-C250P-30TG which will set you back $2299 (as of July 2018). I also like the blade guard with the overhead dust extraction on it.

Is it worth the money in the long run? If you can recoup the extra moolah with your creations, I would go get it

Hi Furns,

I've got that Carbatec 10" myself, had if for nine years now. I reckong the H&F one is exactly the same saw rebranded, our of the same factory I bet.

Couple of things

Without making any admissions, the 15 amp plug can quickly be filed to fit in a 10 amp socket. Unless you are using multiple devices together or working the machine real hard, no problems.

The rip fence is the only thing I don't like. It doesn't lock quite parallel as it grips at both front and back and wants to skew,t hankfully away from the blade minutely. Jsut a niggle and can be worked with, I hold the fence with my left hand while tightening down to prevent that.

At $1375 is is WAY better than the DeWalt at near $900. I do a lot fo box work, have made sleds and jigs for it and you get proper functionality and reliability/repeatability.

Originally Posted by j4r0d

Most of the inexpensive cabinet saws I have found online require 15 Amp plugs and based from the years of drooling around them, they are still the old versions of yesterday. The newer models have way better motors that would only require the normal household 10 Amp plug

Someone might correct me if I'm wrong, but the amperage rating on a motor will be closely tied to the power it can generate, which is closely related then (in the case of a table saw) to the type and thickness of material the unit is able to cut.

I'd be keen to hear the reasons a 10 amp unit would be better than a 15 amp, other than the one-time inconvenience of having to have a 15 amp circuit wired up to run the saw? For my mind, I would rather go through that stage to obtain a more powerful and capable saw, which presumably one would use for quite some time.

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Might sound stupid but they put a 15 amp plug on a machine because it needs 15 amp to run correctly not 10 am.

When the motor fails don't expect to get any warranty support if you've filed down the earth pin to 10m amp and even if you replace it with a 15 amp one it will be obvious that it has been run on 10 amp. That's why it's has a 15 amp plug on it.

Pretty sure if you ask any responsibe supplier or retailer they will tell you that it needs to run 15 amp and not 10 amp even though it will run on 10 amp but the motor will probably burn out if run on 10 amp and you will void any warranty that comes with it.

Originally Posted by Midnight Man

I'd be keen to hear the reasons a 10 amp unit would be better than a 15 amp, other than the one-time inconvenience of having to have a 15 amp circuit wired up to run the saw? For my mind, I would rather go through that stage to obtain a more powerful and capable saw, which presumably one would use for quite some time.

My apologies for the wordings. I guess what I meant to say is that the new saws have a 2.5HP motor vs the common 3HP ones making it require only the normal 10 Amp outlet. I guess i was carried away by Carbatec's description of the saw which goes "...Abundant power from the 2.5HP (1875W) Induction motor..."

Originally Posted by j4r0d

I guess i was carried away by Carbatec's description of the saw which goes "...Abundant power from the 2.5HP (1875W) Induction motor..."

Gotta love the sales blurbs, eh? Some days, they almost sound as inventive as real estate ads!

Originally Posted by Midnight Man

Gotta love the sales blurbs, eh? Some days, they almost sound as inventive as real estate ads!

Newbie question, does it really just require 10 amp because it's just a 2.5 HP motor? Is a 2.5 HP motor not good enough though?

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by j4r0d

Newbie question, does it really just require 10 amp because it's just a 2.5 HP motor?

Yes. HP (HorsePower) is one way for classifying the power a motor puts out. It's directly related to the wattage the motor draws, and the wattage is another way to classify how much power a motor has. From a 10A (Amp) circuit, you can draw 2400 Watts (Voltage x Current (amps) = Watts).

Note in the following calculations, I'm ignoring start up current.

2.5HP translates to a bit over 1864W, thus able to be run from a standard 10A circuit: https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/...p-to-watt.html

3.0Hp translated to a bit over 2237W, and this is a bit close to 2400 for most, so usually a 15A circuit is asked for, and the plug fitted is a 15A plug.

Originally Posted by j4r0d

Is a 2.5 HP motor not good enough though?

Good enough for what? For sure a 2.5HP table saw won't be a slouch, but there are more variables in a table saw over and above the power of the motor.

What size blade? What kind of blade are you going to fit? Are you going to keep it sharp?

And the biggest of them all - what are you wanting to cut?

Share those with us, and we can hone in a bit more.

Originally Posted by ubeaut

Might sound stupid but they put a 15 amp plug on a machine because it needs 15 amp to run correctly not 10 am.

When the motor fails don't expect to get any warranty support if you've filed down the earth pin to 10m amp and even if you replace it with a 15 amp one it will be obvious that it has been run on 10 amp. That's why it's has a 15 amp plug on it.

Pretty sure if you ask any responsibe supplier or retailer they will tell you that it needs to run 15 amp and not 10 amp even though it will run on 10 amp but the motor will probably burn out if run on 10 amp and you will void any warranty that comes with it.

You're right of course - but nine years and still going strong.

Originally Posted by Midnight Man

Good enough for what? For sure a 2.5HP table saw won't be a slouch, but there are more variables in a table saw over and above the power of the motor.

What size blade? What kind of blade are you going to fit? Are you going to keep it sharp?

And the biggest of them all - what are you wanting to cut?

Share those with us, and we can hone in a bit more.

Good questions but to be dead honest, as newbie myself, I just wanna make picture frames, boxes, shelves, simple furniture from birch ply but I might entertain hard woods in the future (as I need to have a jointer and planer at least for those kinda things am I?).

Originally Posted by j4r0d

Good questions but to be dead honest, as newbie myself, I just wanna make picture frames, boxes, shelves, simple furniture from birch ply but I might entertain hard woods in the future

If you're not planning on going through massive logs of hardwood, then a 2.5HP table saw will pretty much eat up everything else you mention for breakfast and still look at you with those "I'm hungry" eyes. Do get a good blade on it though, and appropriate for the type of material you're cutting. As an aside, I take it you have found a source for good quality Birch ply, and have already done the sit-down-then-look-at-the-pricelist gig? The decent stuff in reasonable thinknesses can tend to get a bit on the more adventurous side of pricing...

Originally Posted by j4r0d

(as I need to have a jointer and planer at least for those kinda things am I?).

Not at all - there is nothing to prevent you going to a timber yard, buying timber that is DAR (Dressed All Round - i.e. every surface is smooth, finished, and ready for use) and making furniture out of that. It's sold in various standard sizes, and you buy what you need when you need it. There'd be a bunch of folks doing this, and it works well.

On the other hand, if you want to source what is called rough sawn timber, and then mill it yourself to the size(s) you want, they you're going to want a jointer and thicknesser. Or watch a lot of YouTube videos that proclaim to allow you to joint or thickness wood with a router - but these techniques would soon send me around the twist (some would argue I'm already there).

Originally Posted by Bendigo Bob

You're right of course - but nine years and still going strong.

Twenty three years and still going strong ,