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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    Valla Beach
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    Default DeWalt Table Saw DW744XP-XE

    Hi there folks, I touched on this in another thread in this section. However I made my decision and purchased the DeWalt DW744XP-XE, it arrived via courier today.

    I must say the saw seems very well made however I have two questions for anyone else that has this saw, just a couple of things that are confusing me. And by the way I have basically only switched it on at this stage, intend to buy some timber tomorrow to build my own stand for it (with castors).

    Firstly regarding the "Rip Scale" and the ripping fence. When I move the fine adjustment knob to to bring the fence flush with the blade the "rip scale indicator" I can't get the setting to zero, its about 2mm away from the zero, on the negative side of zero. The only way I can do this is to loosen the small fence locator screws (item 19 in the manual) and move the fence locking mechanism slightly. This works, but it just doesn't seem right. On factory setup upon arrival the fence only come across level to the blade and then stopped, wouldnt go any further. But I was left with that 2mm discrepancy as I said.

    My other confusion is that in the manual it states that the rip fence can be installed on the left or right side of the table. But then it goes on to say that the rip scale reads correctly only when the fence is mounted to the right of the blade.

    So if you mount the rip fence to the left of the blade, how can you set your dimensions etc.

    I'm used to ripping on the left side having owned my triton for a heap of years. Maybe its because up in america they drive on the right hand side of the road and we drive on the left,..!!!!

    Any comments please

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
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    Default

    Me again, After having had the saw for a few days now I have built a stand for it, thought I would share two lil pics. Not sure if I have put enough bolts into it, I only used 52,....!!!

    I have been setting it up, pretty much have it at a nice 90 degree, the ripping blade nicely parallel to the sawblade, and the guage set at zero. I find that with the riving knife I cannot rip timber at say 120mm then flip it over. As the riving knife (not shown in my photos) is higher than the top of the blade and hence it prevents the timber from passing through after it has been cut by the blade. I feel that the riving knife should be lower than the tip of the blade to be able to do what I just described.

    The table comes up with standard 24 tpi blade, the cut is not to bad, but I was hoping for a much smoother cut, less sanding. Perhaps a 60 or so tpi blade down the track is in order.

    The saw itself is very well constructed, the rack and pinion fence is as solid as. I will have to come up with an idea for a featherboard as I cant use those magnetic ones I seen advertised. Still thinking about that.

    Paul
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  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
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    4,677

    Default

    It must have cost you nearly as much for the bolts as it did for the saw!! Glad to see you put a bit of timber between the bolts.
    I hope it performs well for you. As you say, a finer blade would help with the smoothness of cut. You could always lock a featherboard in the tee slot when ripping.
    Dallas

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    54
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    3,402

    Default

    There are many views and schools of thought regarding riving knives ranging from "Ditch the useless bloody thing or you're a poofter" all the way to the manic "Oh my god you must always use one or you'll die then catch cancer and explode".

    My take on them is that they are designed to stop the timber from closing back up and being launched back at you so I always use one if it's at all possible to; but then again I do very little ripping of timber that's thicker than the depth of cut possible with my saws. Should I be in your position however I would certainly consider grinding down the top edge to keep it a bees winky below the top of the blade. A very small pre-pubescent bee. In winter.

  6. #5
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    Sep 2011
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    Valla Beach
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    Default

    Thanks fellas, Both those thoughts I have in mind. Going to try and make my own featherboard which will be adjustable and lock into the mitre slot. And also thinking of trying to make my own "low profile riving knife". I don't want to ruin the one that come with it. I am thinking of using aluminium, something that I can work with and trace the outline of the original one. It has two slots to slide into two bolts at the rear of the blade. I'll see what I can get my hands on, needs to be no thicker than 2.5mm. Paul

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tweed Heads
    Posts
    68

    Default new saw

    Hi Paul Missed you today on way back to Tweed. Left you a small bit of rope Thanks for your time the other day. Terry

  8. #7
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    Sep 2011
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    Valla Beach
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    Default

    Hi there Terry, yes I got the rope. I went for a walk down to the Resort, thought you may have been there. I was in Coffs Harbour most of yesterday. In relation to my above post, I've been on with the DeWalt Agent down in melbourne. I ordered (and has now arrived) an extra riving knife which I will cut down to size to use solely as a riving knife. And therefore keep the original with the safety guard. I also talked to the chap at melbourne regarding the blade that come with it. He informed me it was an all purpose ripping blade and recommended if I wanted the smoothest cut possible, to buy the DeWalt 80 teeth blade, which I did. He said this was the top of the line.

    I'll report back how this all goes, as I have my daughter and her husband visiting for a week, and will set this up after that.

    Nice to meet you Terry, hope you get the hail damage fixed.

    Regards, Paul

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    Valla Beach
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    Default

    Hi Gentlemen, Just an update here. I spent a bit of time today setting up my DeWalt table saw again, with my new 80 tooth blade and the new riving knife which I cut down. Totally impressed with it now. The saw cut is very nice indeed. I must say that when re setting it all up, with the parallel distance from the blade to the fence, I made the back distance a "smidgeon" greater than the front distance. Measuring the same tooth of course. Terry actually put me onto this, does anyone else do this,..?. It gives me very nice cut. The riving knife is now also a "smidgeon" under the top height of the blade and the timber flows passed it excellent. I would strongly recommend that DeWalt table saw to anyone considering such. Next project to build a "sled" for it. Regards, Paul

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula, Vic
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    140

    Default

    I've searched all the usual suppliers with no luck, so where can we get one and do they have a web site? I'm in Melbourne.

    Thanks in advance

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
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    Default

    These guys have them. They are in Melbourne somewhere by the phone No.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula, Vic
    Posts
    140

    Default

    Thanks for the feedback - they aren't too far away.

    Dave

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    castle hill
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    Default

    G'day Paul
    These saws are on special in Sydney at the moment and I'm on the verge of buying one when I found this old thread. Mate have you got an update on your saw? Still in good nick? Would you buy another one?
    Thanks in anticipation, Richard

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Queen Creek, AZ
    Age
    75
    Posts
    12

    Default

    That's the one I gave. I love it. It does everything I need it to do.

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