Thread: Durden Pacemaker switch problem

Take the switch unit to an electrical wholesaler and they can replace it with a similar unit. there are hundreds of these types of switches which will do the job. Talk to your local electrician. He may be able to help. I often used to assist people who had this type of problem when I did that W... W... W... W... four letter word thing from 6 to 5 every day! It won't cost you a fortune to get in someone to fix it either.
Terry

That easy eh?
Thank you. I appreciate your help.
I'll take the whole board into one next week.
I'll let you know how I get on, just in case a future Pacemaker owner searches the same issue.
Cheers
Jim

Might just be full of dust

Hi guys,
Must admit, feeling a tad discouraged here that I can't seem to make any headway.
But thought I'd just bring you up to date so far.

Last post first maybe.....

Originally Posted by China

Might just be full of dust

Good thought, but already tried. Note opening post.

Originally Posted by Grandad-5

I've taken the switch out and tried blowing it out with an air line but no go.

There's also a single copper external contact that I touched up with a points file. No go.

Regarding buying a new one...

Originally Posted by terryvk6pq

Take the switch unit to an electrical wholesaler and they can replace it with a similar unit.

Thanks Terry. Did exactly that. They could supply me with another that was said to be the same. May well have been electrically, but mechanically it was nowhere near. It wouldn't have fitted. And at a cost of $120 there was no way that was an option right now. That may seem reasonable to most but not to me right now. That's not going to happen until I get some work in following the Xmas shut-down.

So here's where I'm at, more for the benefit of others in the future that may search this forum for the same problem I guess, but always with the hope someone will just say...."Jim, do this" and it will work.

I've learnt that this isn't a "switch" per se. It's a two part apparatus comprising the controller and an overload which functions as the "Off" part of the operation. Plus presumably as added overload protection over and above the circuit breaker in the house switchboard.
When you push the “Off” button, you are actually tripping the overload.

The active power supply from the mains runs first to the controller for direction, then to the on/off controller itself. The neutral runs direct to the on/off controller with a feed to the direction controller.

I happen to have the switch from my old table saw which I planned to use on a router table. I opened it up and what do you know? The same 2 part overload/controller combo as the Durden.
Obviously with different electrical ratings.

I’ve sat there with the two side by side trying to nut out how I could replace one with the other, even if only temporary.
But the brain has gone on strike.
Here’s an image of what I’m looking at.
Attachment 194707

I’ll either eventually get it right, or give up and have to call in a sparky. Unfortunately, if the latter is necessary, it won’t happen for quite a while.

Whatever happens, I’ll report back here for future reference.
Cheers
Jim

Have you tried contacting the manufacturer Home - F W Hercus Pty. Ltd - Hercus Gear Cutting - Adelaide

No I haven't China. I'll admit I thought the Durden brand was long gone.
I'll follow your link now. Thanks.
Jim

Grandad-5 said: "So here's where I'm at, more for the benefit of others in the future that may search this forum for the same problem I guess,"

Please keep doing so, I am following this thread with interest. I don't have the switch problem -- yet but then I haven't turned my Durden on - too many moving parts don't, lots of rust; hasn't been used for 15 years.

Rob

Originally Posted by Irobot

Grandad-5 said: "So here's where I'm at, more for the benefit of others in the future that may search this forum for the same problem I guess,"

Please keep doing so, I am following this thread with interest. I don't have the switch problem -- yet but then I haven't turned my Durden on - too many moving parts don't, lots of rust; hasn't been used for 15 years.

Rob

I'll be happy to Rob.
I don't believe there is much I can offer the good folk on this forum re woodworking skills.
But this area may be something I can contribute.

Ok, let's continue with what I learnt at Hercus.

I just got off the phone from a very helpful gentleman in spares named Steve.
Bad News= No electrical parts left in stock. I did rather expect that, but it was worth a shot.
Good news = In conversation I mentioned I had a 2HP motor here that I had vague thoughts of maybe fitting. (Mentioned in relation to switch issue)

He informs me that it is a common swap and makes the world of difference over the existing 1HP. He told me to check pully diameters, speed etc was compatible and to ensure I used a double belt pully.
All logical stuff but good to hear from someone familiar with the machine itself.

Also, he advised I look at a half moon shaped gear that raises and lowers the table for wear and cleanliness.
The part is actually still available but regular cleaning is highly recommended.
He suggests every 6 weeks if used regularly.
The part has a lifespan of roughly 5 yrs if not maintained correctly.

That was a helpful bit of advice that I gladly pass on.

I personally question the estimated 5 yr life if not maintained.
A Luna table saw from years past had a similar issue with a threaded rod to raise and lower the blade.
If neglected, it wouldn't see a year out.

I think the future of this switch issue is to try to replace it with the one I have from my old TS.
It suits the motor that may one day be fitted as well as a bonus.
(I'll find something else to use on my router table.)

I've tried again to nut out the wiring but I think I'm ready to give up.
Guess I'll just have to wait until business starts up again and money starts to flow IN instead of OUT and take it to a sparky to do for me.

If I go to him so there's no call out fee, how much could it possibly be?
I wouldn't imagine all that much.

Cheers
Jim