Thread: Eccentric hold down for K3 sliding table saw

Derek, do you leave it permanently installed?

Chris, it is easy enough to unscrew, if so wanted.

I thought that I would live with it on for a while, and determine where the shaft could be cut - it does not need to be the full length, and cutting (half?) would be a weight saving.

It would not add much weight to the crosscut fence to lift on-and-off. What it adds should be balanced by adding a “handle” when doing so.

Your thoughts, in case of missing something.

Regards from Perth

Derek

It may not be any advantage in your case but most users would want to be able to position it on the table as needed, this would give added flexibility, screw it to the clamp or to the slot. Speaking for myself I have found very few situations where I needed any clamp but that does not mean a clamp is a bad idea as lots of people use them. If I were you I would consider making a foot to go into the slot on the table and position it in front of the fence as it would be very easy to remove at the other end, put a big nylon washer under it to avoid marking the table. I never know what to call each end as front or back leading or trailing etc.

I would be interested to see how people use clamps and their thinking behind it, maybe a question for SMC as well. Air clamps look awesome but the price makes them beyond reach for most and they are more likely only a valid option for commercial users.

Chris, I do not plan to move the hold down around. The aim was always to have something to clamp at the fence. Some pieces there may be held with a clamp against the crosscut fence. Trying this with low work pieces might lift them from the table. Hence the preferred hold down.

At the other end of the sliding wagon, if I need a hold down, I just use an Incra. This was on the first version of the Reversed F&F (the Mk2 does not need a hold down as the non-slip on the face, together with the depth stop, prevents movement)



Regards from Perth

Derek

Being able to keep hands clear when cutting is a major advantage of the slider for me. A clamp will no doubt help for more difficult cuts and smaller pieces.

I had a look at the Total Tools website and no mention of this product, but I’ll have a look tomorrow at our local branch. Perhaps it can be ordered in.

I’ve also been looking for something like this for a while so thanks for the ‘heads up’.

Leigh


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

that should have been Beyond Tools!

Holding Down Clamp suit Diamond Series Panelsaws by Toughcut – Beyond Tools

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek

Could you do me a small favor and send me the dimensions of the locking plate. I think it might fit my old slider. If it does Beyond Tools will be getting an order.

Thanks

Jase

Originally Posted by Jasethebeginner

Derek

Could you do me a small favor and send me the dimensions of the locking plate. I think it might fit my old slider. If it does Beyond Tools will be getting an order.

Thanks

Jase

Jase, do you mean the semi circular plate the fence is fixed to? I have a spare one of those if you think it will work on your saw.

Pricing as of a couple of weeks ago.

400-108 Eccentric clamp with clamping shaft $ 286.20 + GST

410-190 Adapter Felder eccentric clamp $ 67.14 + GST

The adapter is to allow it to fit to a K3 Sliding table.

So, about $400 for the Felder vs $75 for the ToughCut.

Jase, I will get back to you later.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Here is an update on the hold down.

This attachment ...





... did not last well. There was too much stress on the single hole from the clamping action of the hold down. Eventually it became loose.

I came up with another solution, this using an end shaft support. This has a much greater bearing surface as well as two fixing points. I drilled and tapped two bolt holes ...





The hold down shaft is secured from the rear ...



Working well.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Good mod Derek.

From what I can see there is still a large load on two very short threads through the fence attachment plate.

To get around this I suggest using larger countersunk screws that come through unthreaded holes from underneath the fence attachment plate and screw into threaded holes in the hole all base plate. This would enable much longer lengths of thread to be used in the hold all base.

A problem with counter suck screws alone is they don't enable much torque to be applied. To get around this don't thread any holes in either plate and use long enough tensile screws that slide right through both plates an poke out far enough so that tensile nuts could be used Then you can really crank down on the nuts and generate a much more rigid structure.

Better still would be to rotate the hold all base plate by 90º so the cam lifting force is in line with one of the screws in the base plate. The problem with this is it would interfere with the fence attachment locking handle. A custom base plate with 4 screws at 45º to the existing screw line would then be the next best thing.

Thank Bob. I have had the same thoughts as you, with the same solution in mind. I decided to just drill the two holes and thread them at this stage out of curiosity. If (when?) needed, I can enlarge the holes and chamfer them to flush-fit a head, with the nuts above the end shaft support.

I also have a stainless steel rod holder coming. This is round and has three holes around its perimeter (I can add more). I hope the version above lasts, but I suspect that the rod holder will end up being used.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hey Derek, i've been reading your posts on what you have done to improve your K3 Winner.

Did you look at welding on a 8mm coupler nut instead of trying to thread it into the base?

I was looking at mine today and i think it would work, although i'm not sure on how much the slider plate would distort.

I am tempted to give it ago, as i need to upgrade to the newer coupler, i'm not a fan of the cam fitting.