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Thread: Elu TGS 172

  1. #1
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    Default Elu TGS 172

    I recently saved one of these from the scrap merchants. It seems to be missing a few parts. I'm looking for a copy of the manual and really a blowup diagram of all the parts if anyone can help.

    So far I have bought a Pirelli Isoran 240XL belt to get it cutting again. I don't know what the original belt width is but htis is the best we could do at the time. The cuts I have made have impressed me as the pine ended up with such a fine surface. The blade looks pretty rusty so when I figure how to get it off I will see what I can do about cleaning it (something else to be learnt).

    I managed to get the table lock/release mechanism moving after a lot of effort and CRC. Next I need to figure out how to get the horizontal rotation mechanism fred up and working again.

    Any advice greatly appreciated.

    Nick

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  3. #2
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    Default Tgs 172

    Hi Nick
    I have had one of these beauties for over 25 years. It is a great thing to have when you have to do a fix out of a house. The consistant accuracy of the mitres and then the quick conversion to a bench saw is just sooo handy!!!
    I bought mine second hand so never got a manuel with it. When you come to removal of the blade, its a LEFTHAND THREAD. Being alloy and steel,constuction, oxidising of the surfaces can be a problem so copious application of WD is a must and then proceed gently. Another thing that I have replaced is the cable that lifts the guard up out of the way. The original part was quite expensive (from Memory) so now I make my own, by drilling out the original cable and soldering in a new piece.The finished length is critical to make it work properly. That drive belt, on mine , is about 20mm X 1.5mm thick and is reinforced with fine steel cable.
    I am no guru but if I can help any further contact me and if I can help I will
    Kind regards Rod

  4. #3
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    Default ongoing recovery

    Thanks for that. I have done the deed and started drowning evrything thing in CRC and it's all starting to move quite freely now (it was a bit stiff before.) I did discover the depth adjuster.

    I'm still unable to rotate it in the horizontal. I have found nylon grub thread that requires an alum key of 5mm. So far two cleaned out and loosened but the other two appear to be a problem so they are drowned in CRC. I found what I think is the quick release to the left of the blade area. I unscrewed this and pulled the spring loaded mechanism out for a wipe down and drowning in CRC before putting back in. Works freely now but still no horizontal rotation.

    I've drowned the track area and the big slot head screws. They will be the next area of attack. Only managed to safelu undo two so the others will have to sit in the CRC for a while.

    Just a question is there a proper way to hold the blade to I can safely undo the bolt? Thanks for the information on the thread and the cable (whick is now soked in CRC.

    Nick

  5. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackout View Post
    Thanks for that. I have done the deed and started drowning evrything thing in CRC and it's all starting to move quite freely now (it was a bit stiff before.) I did discover the depth adjuster.


    Just a question is there a proper way to hold the blade to I can safely undo the bolt? Thanks for the information on the thread and the cable (whick is now soked in CRC.

    Nick
    Nick,

    When undoing the nut/bolt to take the blade off, I just put a block of wood in place and hold the blade down tight on that then undo the nut/bolt.

    Colin.

  6. #5
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    Default Comboman - New Member

    Hello there Nick,
    I have had a TGS 172 since new and have found it indispensible over the years. Used it in furniture manufacture and building. I am sure I have the original manual somewhere but may need to search for a while as I have moved several times in recent years. The horizontal movement of the rotating table is always an issue unfortunately as sawdust etc. gets caught up inside. I blow out the debris with my blow gun at 120 psi. If the table hasn't moved in years you may find it is "glued" together with oxide deposit too, so may have to use a little brute force to loosen it.
    Good luck,
    Neil
    PS. Happy to talk to you If it will help

  7. #6
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    Default

    Well after a bottle of CRC I finally used an impact driver to free the screws holding the big plate plate one and only had one of the ruin the thread. After 5 goes I cleaned it enough and adjusted the nylon threaded sections enough to get the final movement going. I had to file down a few places where the blade had cut the main plate. Took the advice and dragged a compressor over and blasted everything I could.

    Eventually I will have to hit some of the plate with a wire brush to clean the rust off. After that clean the CRC off the contact surfaces and replace it with some Lanolin.

    During this time I will have to learn how to use plastic to make a guard for the belt and something for the motor fan.

    Cheers,

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackout View Post
    I recently saved one of these from the scrap merchants. It seems to be missing a few parts.
    G'day Nick! Sounds like it's in bad shape and missing quite a few bits and pieces? If the Elu brochure I have is correct, then it should look like this...



    I have the TGS 73 and the manual that goes with it. To me it looks like the only difference is the handle? Anyway, happy to scan/post parts of the manual that may interest you. There isn't an exploded parts diagram but there are a variety of detailed 'numbered' photos.




    Cheers,
    Graeme.

  9. #8
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    Default

    Graeme,

    Thanks for those pictures. I have been put onto a few copies of the TGS 173 manual on the internet ( http://www.surreyhire.co.uk/docs/manual/M13801.pdf ) and agree the handle appears to be the difference. Does tyhis manual look the same as yours? I have found an Ebay iamge of I think most of the accessories and another showing the clamping arrangement for the wood. I may have have something else a bit faster to put in its place. The pictures all put the condition of mine to shame but it is at least working now.

    Cheers,

  10. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackout View Post
    Does tyhis manual look the same as yours?
    Yes, very similar except it has photos instead on line drawings. I don't know about the 172 handle but the 173 handle has a complex arrangement where your index finger triggers the switch (8) while your palm squeezes the guard retraction lever (5) while at the same time pulling the blade down. Over the years this somewhat awkward manoeuvre resulted in fracture lines in the plastic handle. I decided to remove the guard and patch the handle rather than try tracking down a part from 1987.



    Quote Originally Posted by Blackout View Post
    but it is at least working now.
    That's the main thing mate, good luck to you!

  11. #10
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    Default

    Very sought after manual. Thanks a lot!

  12. #11
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    Default

    You're welcome I finally sold my saw just recently to a carpenter.

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