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Thread: Hafco SB12 Blade lift
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17th August 2018, 02:59 PM #1Member
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Hafco SB12 Blade lift
Hi all
I have a Hafco SB12 table saw bought second hand, the saw is in good order overall but there is a problem with the rise and fall control.
The hand wheel raises the blade OK but won't lock in any position, I have removed the hand wheel and checked the parts assembly against the expanded drawing in the manual, the parts on my saw are slightly different to those shown in the manual. The manual shows 2 parts (spacer and flat washer) part nos 61 & 62, my saw only has the flat washer(PN 62) but also has a cir clip not shown on the expanded drawing that fits in a groove on the
elevation shaft (PN 46) that holds the parts in place.
The problem seems to be that when the blade is lowered completely the the parts on the shaft compress and force the cir clip out of position and stop the locking knob from doing it's job. I have replaced the clip, reassembled the parts but the fist time I raised and lowered the blade the clip was pushed out of place and distorted.
I wonder if someone who has this model saw could check the parts arrangement on their saw and advise me how it is set up, my saw is 2013 YOM.
I have spoken to Hare and Forbes at their Parramatta store and asked if I could remove the wheel to see how it is set up, they refused because they had no tools available, no tools are required but he didn't believe me and wouldn't let me show them on their floor model, the staff member I spoke to did bring up the parts list on the computer which was the same as in my manual and didn't show the cir clip, and said he would pass my contact details to a "fitter" who might contact me, that was over 1 week ago and no contact.
It seems their after sales service could be improved a bit.
If anyone can advise me of the set up of these parts on a saw that works as intended I would be most appreciative.
Thanks Rick
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3rd September 2018, 05:39 PM #2New Member
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Hello Rick,
I have taken a couple of photos of the end of the blade raising/lowering shaft with the hand wheel off.
From the threaded end of the shaft going into the saw mechanism there is first a roll-pin through the shaft, this pin engages the slot in the rear of the hand-wheel to provide the turning function of raising the blade. Next comes a sir-clip and then a flat washer that bears onto the large boss that has the arm to reference the arbor tilt, this is held onto the shaft in the appropriate position with a grub screw.
When the hand-wheel is placed on the shaft and the locking nut is tightened down the shaft is prevented from rotating by the friction created between the large washer and the shaft boss. To adjust the blade height the locking nut is released and the hand wheel rotated to achieve the desired height and the locking nut tightened again.
Suffice to say this is not a robust arrangement, the grub screw in the large boss at the rear of the assembly is all that keeps things in order.
I purchased one of these saws new in April and have spent quite some time getting it to a situation where it will cut reasonably well. I did do quite a bit of investigation into the saw before purchase and found a number of U-Tube reviews that gave some confidence in the product. The lemon I got stuck with though needed significant work to overcome poor machining and assembly, even the arbor nut was machined incorrectly and would not bear evenly onto the blade flange. The most significant issue however was that the two rods connecting the front and rear trunnions were not in the same plane (that is, level) and therefore the blade could not be aligned. I have had to disassemble the the saw and completely rebuild it, including having the rear trunnion mounting holes machined.
Needless to sat H&F were of no help what so ever, 'caveat-emptor' seems to be their attitude.
I could not recommend a purchase of anything from H&F save perhaps a file or maybe a hammer.
Trust this is of some help and you get things working.
IMG_2.jpgIMG_1.jpgIMG_3.jpg
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4th September 2018, 06:31 PM #3Member
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62mobi
Thanks for the photos, thats pretty much as my saw, I have thought about it a bit and have placed another washer between the flat washer and the circlip (E clip on my saw was a better fit) to make it a firmer fit and now the back face of the wheel bears against the washer. The wheel has a larger diameter shallow hole that seems to be there to get over the circlip and make contact with the washer, (I have to enlarge it by about 1/16") this has seemed to take up the slap/free play when the wheel is turned. It all seems to be a bit better now and the wheel locks when the lock nut is tightened.
Thanks again.
Cheers Rick.
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10th January 2020, 08:53 AM #4Intermediate Member
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62 Mobi
Hi, I was just wondering where you got the dust extraction set up from and whether you would mind briefly explaining what you have done with the riving knife set up?
The existing splitter and guard on my saw is terrible
Cheers
Dean
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