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12th March 2022, 05:13 PM #1
ST-254 style Table Saw Blade slop in blade lowering and raising mechanism
The saw I have is based around the generic mechanics of the ST-254 hybrid saw. The blade raise and lowering is operated by the front handle which is connected to a geared shaft that drives a worm gear wheel similar to this:
Worm_Gear.gif
These are parts 56 and 71 on this exploded view..
exploded.jpg
My problem is that the teeth don't seem to mate closely together and when I lower the blade to a certain point it will drop further when any downward force is applied to it. I first noticed this when the blade would drop a bit when the saw was turned on, but came to realize any hand pressure after lowering the blade does the same thing......
Dropbox - VID_20220226_100220.mp4 - Simplify your life
I've managed to reduce some of the slop because the original worm wheel shaft key (part 117) was a bit undersize at 4.9mm instead of the speced 5mm, this introduced some play when turning the worm wheel as it slipped on the shaft but there is more to resolve.
From what I can see now the worm gear teeth don't seem to be meshing together tightly enough, allowing some side to side slop between mating teeth. When the blade drops the worm gear slides over to the other side of the valleys in the threaded rod. This is not actually much movement at the gear teeth interface but it is substantially magnified at the blade.
Part 52 is called the Adjusting Frame and holds the rod against the gear wheel but I can't seem to see any way to adjust this to take out the slop. Adjusting frame here probably just refers to adjusting the blade tilt, because the long thread tilt rod also goes through it.
Has anybody had to contend with this before and knows a solution? I'm not entirely sure the threads are totally compatible. The worm gear teeth appear V shaped while the rod thread seems to be more U shaped. The point of contact on the V is wandering from side to side of the U.Franklin
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12th March 2022 05:13 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th March 2022, 11:52 AM #2
Thats a lot of play. Or backlash. As it is only on the down adjustment, to set the bade height go lower than your setting and adjust in the upward direction.
It looks like there are two circlips holding the worm drive / sleeve in place and preventing it from moving back and forth. Check that these are both still there. That amount of backlash looks like something is moving that shouldn't.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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13th March 2022, 12:48 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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It's pretty hard to see how it all fits together from that exploded view. Is the hole in the Lock Nail Bush (#95) centred or eccentric? If it's eccentric that would be my best guess as the part that allows the meshing of the worm gear to be adjusted. There is usually a bit of slop (backlash) in these mechanisms, but yours does seem particularly bad. On my contractor saw after lowering the blade I turn the handle clockwise until I can feel the rise engaging, then lock the blade position in place. I have adjusted the saw to minimise backlash and can't say that I've ever found it a problem. You can get a schematic that allows magnification here - https://images.machineryhouse.co.nz/...w%20Manual.pdf - that may help.
I see now that the schematic I've linked to is slightly different to the one you've pictured.
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13th March 2022, 01:36 PM #4
Too true!
Here's a pic from the (wrong side) from the Axminster manual. The parts numbered in this picture are
1- The worm gear wheel
2- The geared shaft
3- Bolts to attach Adjusting Frame to chassis piece. The Worm Wheel shaft (part 122) is attached to this chassis piece as well.
doorSide.jpg
There doesn't seem to be much slack in the holes the bolts go through to allow the geared shaft fixed in the adjusting frame to be lifted higher so it meshes more tightly with the worm gear wheel. This would seem a likely place to take out some slop.
I guess another possibility is the piece 116 which locates the worm wheel shaft to the chassis piece might have some slop in the holes allowing some adjustment there as well.Franklin
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13th March 2022, 01:44 PM #5
If this is related to Leda saw mentioned elsewhere, what has their response be?
not expecting much from them.I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds
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13th March 2022, 02:56 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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It certainly looks different in the flesh. The only possibilities I can see for adjustment there are:
1. At the top on the geared wheel (circled in red) - if there is an eccentric bush between the mounting points that the geared wheel runs on.
2. At the worm gear mounting (oval shape in red) - if the fixtures that the worm gear mounts on at either end has some kind of eccentric adjustment.
I would think that option 2 is less likely to be the case.
If neither of those points provide a solution I'm stumped.
Edit: Another look. Part #116 in your drawing that the geared wheel is mounted on looks like it is mounted by a bolt that is off centre to the wheel (the bolt circled in the pic. I posted). If this is correct undoing that bolt should allow the adjustment you're looking for.
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14th March 2022, 12:27 PM #7
The only point of adjustment for mating the worm drive is via movement at the elongated holes where the bolts at point 3 fix the brackets together.
I loosened these off and clamped the worm wheel and adjusting rod tightly together before tightening the securing bolts but there is still backlash between the teeth.
worm.jpg
Dropbox - VID_20220314_092948.mp4 - Simplify your life
Blade drop has been halved to about 6mm.Franklin
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14th March 2022, 03:50 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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You've got me.
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14th March 2022, 04:11 PM #9
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