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  1. #1
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    Default Hafco SB12 - handle turning but blade not elevating

    Evening all,

    I have a well used Hafco SB12 that sat in storage for a year.

    I brought it out this afternoon to get it ready for some work and the blade is failing to rise or fall. The handle turns but it is incredibly hard to turn. My guess is I need to clean out the gears and lube it.

    Wondering if anyone has any directions or steps to do this?

    Do I need to remove the table top? Is there an easier way?

    I bought this saw second hand and it is well used so my guess is there is a fair bit of saw dust inside.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers

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  3. #2
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    Mar 2018
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    Default

    I don't own one of these saws so don't have direct experience, but I believe you don't need to take the top off. In fact, that's likely a hard process because the trunnions likely hang off the top. I'd attack it from the bottom. I'm basing that from my ST-12 work.

    This exploded diagram might help seeing how things all go together too.

    If you can manually assist the rising action by hand you might find where the binding is happening.

  4. #3
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    Mar 2006
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    Newcastle
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    Default

    Thanks Poundy - that is a great help/ I'm totally out of my depth here so starting blind was rather terrifying!

    This is feeling like a great opportunity to service the saw more broadly too ....

  5. #4
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    Default

    Tip it over on it’s side, start at the shaft that is connected to the handle, spray it with WD40 or similar, and work away from there. No need to pull stuff apart.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Thanks Riverbuilder. The handle does turn, I'm worried that it might be causing further damage ... but I suppose it can't hurt to give it a go ... hurt anymore than I have already ...

  7. #6
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    Default

    Just work progressively, if the handle turns, but the shaft it’s attached to doesn’t, there’s your problem. If the shaft turns, move on to the nut on the scissor arms, if that’s fine, move onto the connection of the scissor arms to the motor table, if that’s fine, move on to the motor pivot points, and so on. Lubricating everything as you go along, it’s a pretty simple machine.

  8. #7
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    Mar 2006
    Location
    Newcastle
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    Default

    Thanks All,

    When I go to turn it upside down to work on it. Is it recommended to remove the fence rails and the extension leaves? Easier to manoeuvre and reduce the risk of putting stress on those parts?

    Also, is Wd40 the best lubricant?

  9. #8
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    Mar 2018
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    Sydney
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    Default

    I'd leave it upright to start with. Looking up from underneath (if you have a dust plate there, time to remove it) you should be able to see most of the inner workings.

    On my saw I'd first take off the back plate to get access into the cavity near the motor mounts. Is that something you can do on yours ? Then you can manually assist the raise mechanism and see if it's just binding but not frozen, but don't really crank the handle hard, the cast iron teeth on the arbor tilt mechanism can chip.

  10. #9
    Join Date
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    I'm pretty sure the SB-12 is basically the same as my saw. Don't turn it upside down. First ensure that your saw has the same architecture and I'm not leading you up the garden path.

    - Remove the rise and fall winding handle.
    - Drive the roll pin out of the shaft. Some suitable support on the shaft to drive against will be required.
    - Undo the grub screw and remove the outer shaft and angle pointer.
    - If the handle shaft is still tight (you should be able to get some slight backward and forward movement of the worm gear in the teeth it engages with) spray with WD40 or similar until you're able to get movement.
    - Once you can get the shaft to move you should be able to retract it back into the saw.
    - The outer shaft that the handle shaft runs through is secured by the nut. the hole in the outer shaft is eccentric to allow adjustment of the engagement of the worm gear.
    - Give the parts a good clean.

    The recommended lubricant for the shaft to shaft contact is a wheel bearing type grease. Don't go crazy, you only need it in the mechanism. I find candle wax works very well as a worm gear lubricant, tilt worm gear as well. Paste wax is good for the tilt trunnions.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers,
    David
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by poundy View Post
    \the cast iron teeth on the arbor tilt mechanism can chip.
    I may have already damaged these as I can spin the mechanism but it won't engage. GUessing I will find that out once I get into it. Thanks for your reply.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    I'm pretty sure the SB-12 is basically the same as ...
    Thanks a million David, this really helps. It gives me a path to follow. I will double check the architecture and take my time. I often make the mistake of using too much force, so will be careful!

    This forum has turned a frustrating situation, with a worrying job ahead of me - into a project I'm looking forward to! Thanks

  13. #12
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    Default

    OK so I haven't got far but after removing the blade I was able to inspect the worm gear and its condition.

    I am not sure but looking at the photo I believe the problem is related to the worm gear being dislocated from the teeth on the raising mechanism. If you see the photo below the teeth don't look like they will mesh.

    Is this the way you all read it?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #13
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    Default

    Hmm the photo has come through upside down and I can't delete it. I will see if I can fix that ...

  15. #14
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    Default

    Did you use dust extraction with the saw? If not, then the problem is likely because of the sawdust jamming up the gears. If that is the case, you need to clear all the sawdust before doing any more turning of the handle. Can you take a picture to show us what it looks like under the cast-iron tabletop?

  16. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by justonething View Post
    Did you use dust extraction with the saw? If not, then the problem is likely because of the sawdust jamming up the gears. If that is the case, you need to clear all the sawdust before doing any more turning of the handle. Can you take a picture to show us what it looks like under the cast-iron tabletop?
    I didn't have any vacuum attached - however I believe the previous owner did. I ahve done very little cutting - maybe enough to foul it up.

    Do you mean take a photo looking directly up from the bottom?

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