Thread: HAFCO ST-10SD Upgrades inc. fence

The most important thing you can do to that saw for your own safety is fit a riving knife and an overhead guard, and a good sharp blade. Buy or make a couple of push sticks, and hang them on the front of the cabinet where you can use them.

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

The most important thing you can do to that saw for your own safety is fit a riving knife and an overhead guard, and a good sharp blade. Buy or make a couple of push sticks, and hang them on the front of the cabinet where you can use them.

Thanks Riverbuilder. It has come with a riving knife fitted, an overhead guard and a good new blade. Winning in that way.

I wouldn't have purchased without those items.

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Here is one option. I have a similarly designed fence on my saw and it works perfectly. The ad says that it can clamp at the rear or not if you have a short table depth. Mine doesn't clamp at the rear and have never had a problem with it flexing away from the blade.
Hope the saw didn't put that dent in the car

That looks like a pretty decent beginner saw.

The fence on these saws is pretty ordinary and your chances of getting it to perform with any consistency are slim to nil even if you did have all the parts. Treecycle (Dallas) has set you on the right track as far as a replacement fence goes.

It's not possible to fit a riving knife to most of these early contractor saws. They came with an integrated splitter and blade guard with anti-kickback pawls that was fitted to a rod extending from the rear trunnion. These are a PITA to adjust and have to be removed any time you want to do anything other than a full depth Untitled.jpgthrough cut. To reduce the chance of kickback many members here make zero clearance inserts and fit a small timber splitter to the back of the saw slot as per the attached pic.

There's quite a knowledge base on these saws on the forum and many threads over the last 12 months covering various aspects of them so if you have any other questions make sure to post them.

Originally Posted by Treecycle

Here is one option. I have a similarly designed fence on my saw and it works perfectly. The ad says that it can clamp at the rear or not if you have a short table depth. Mine doesn't clamp at the rear and have never had a problem with it flexing away from the blade.
Hope the saw didn't put that dent in the car

Hahaha, I was wondering if that would come up. No it wasn't the saw, it was a council ride on mowing man who pretended it didn't happen for fear of losing his job lol.

Thanks for the link, I'll certainly have a look at the fence. Pretty keen to get it fixed up.

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@aldav I'm really fortunate in that this model actually comes with a riving knife and blade guard . One thing I'm interested to know, do these table saws have the ability to take a dado stack?
Photos to follow (Tapatalk isn't playing nice)

Riving Knife
20200831_204334.jpg

Blade guard
20200831_204552.jpg

Can this take a dado stack? (I'm a total noob)
20200831_204357.jpg

No, that arbor won't take a dado stack without an extension, I believe you can buy them. Does that riving knife rise and fall with the blade? If not, it's just a splitter, but possibly better than the earlier models I was describing, in fact it would be hard pressed to be as bad as they are.

Originally Posted by aldav

No, that arbor won't take a dado stack without an extension, I believe you can buy them. Does that riving knife rise and fall with the blade? If not, it's just a splitter, but possibly better than the earlier models I was describing, in fact it would be hard pressed to be as bad as they are.

Thanks for the tip. I have a router so will probably look to use that before moving in to the world of Dados.

The riving knife does fall and rise with the blade, and keeps a consistent distance. got a pretty smooth action actually.

Thanks for the help everyone. @Treecycle I just pulled the trigger and bought the aftermarket fence from Timbecon as well as a 230kg mobile base.

Next up on the list will be a wixey wr700 digital readout. I can justify this and the new fence cost vs purchasing an incra TS LS (even though it is awesome) because the cost and total floor space I just can't justify at this stage.

I'm also keen to build / buy a better blade guard with dust extraction, and upgrade to a safety switch for the power.

Looking to eventually update the mitre to an incra and see what I can do to improve the slide feature.