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Thread: Hammer k3 Winner Comfort
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28th April 2019, 10:42 PM #1Intermediate Member
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Hammer k3 Winner Comfort
Apologies in advance for any redundancy. Interested in getting a Hammer k3 Comfort with 2m slider, 1300 crosscut fence and 1250 rip fence. Any specs I've come across seem to suggest overall size is 4258 x 2840 mm and that would fit snugly in the shed. Do owners feel those dimensions are about right? I would ideally get a 2.5m + slider to straight rip 2.4m hardwood but other saws for that kind of budget ( ie: sc2/3) seem to be up near 4m wide. Does that sound about right? 3m width is about my limit. Hence I gravitated toward the Hammer based on positive reviews, budget and dimensions. Moreover, does the forum have any recommendations regarding accessories for the Hammer when cutting both hardwood and sheet stock? Is the scribing blade a worthwhile addition? Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge.
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29th April 2019, 12:55 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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I 'm not sure if these comments will help you - but here goes. I have the Hammer C3-31 combination machine, which I believe is the K3 with an over/under planer-thicknesser and spindle moulder in one. My shed is 6 x 6 m and I have a lot of other stuff in there, but it is far too crowded because of that. If I didn't have the 20" bandsaw, long lathe etc. 6 x 6 would be plenty. What you have to remember is not just fitting the machine in the shed but also moving around the machine, moving your timber and sheet material around etc. I have the moving carriage set-up for mine and find it is essential if I need to cut something long - I roll the C3-31 to the double doorway and feed out onto the grass.
I do not have the scoring blade but I do not cut laminated surface sheet material. I do not find the scoring blade necessary for marine plywood or even cheap plywood, but if you are going to cut a lot of sheet material it would be worth considering.
I am very happy with my machine. It is much better build quality than the Italian bandsaw (SCM) I have.
Something to bear in mind if you do buy is that although Felder promised the machine would be fully set-up and calibrated, it was not, although it was close. You may need to check all the stops and adjust yourself to get it perfect. Once you have done so it keeps the settings, so it is a once-only job. In contrast, nothing was properly adjusted on my bandsaw!
If you don't get any other responses let me know and I'll measure my machine for you.
David
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29th April 2019, 04:14 PM #3
I have the K3 with a 1250 slider. I do not work with full size manufactured sheets (MDF or Ply) and only solid wood, and so the shorter stroke slider is fine for me. There is a size smaller than mine.
As it is, this only just fits into my workshop in regard to the travel of the slider. It is not the width of the saw that takes up space - this K3 takes up less space than the contractor saw I had before with 50" rails. The rails on the K3 are 31" (I think). The slider you are aiming for (2000mm) is going to need about this much more than mine (1250mm) for travel.
You can see how far back my bench is, and the slider has about 200mm clearance ...
This is a great saw. A few niggles, but I would get it again (I had considered the SawStop at the time. Happy I went with the K3).
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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29th April 2019, 08:25 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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What a superbly organised workshop. certainly puts mine to shame!
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29th April 2019, 10:12 PM #5
Thank you David. You and I have essentially the same machines, if my A3-31 is connected to the K3. I'd love to see how big the C3-31 is ... curious. Do you have a photo of your set up?
I have a double garage ... with an extra metre at the end, since I built it knowing that I had a bench to get in. I need to have space to park a car (mine!) alongside the K3, which is why the workshop looks clean and tidy - too many tools, so if I do not keep it that way, it gets crowded and dangerous.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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29th April 2019, 10:19 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Surfmore, make sure they include the new zero stop for the cross cut fence as part of the deal, it is far better than the old one and Felder are charging good money for the new one instead of fitting it from the factory as they should be.
CHRIS
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30th April 2019, 09:16 AM #7Intermediate Member
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Thanks for your insight David.
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30th April 2019, 09:20 AM #8Intermediate Member
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Awesome setup Derek. Thanks for your feedback. Shane.
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30th April 2019, 09:25 AM #9Intermediate Member
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I'll check that Chris. I had assumed it would be included. Thanks for the local knowledge. Shane.
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30th April 2019, 09:46 AM #10Intermediate Member
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Do you think it would be ok to crosscut the ends of 2.4m 200x45 lengths of oregon on the k3 slider outrigger with a 1300 fence? Is the weight likely to be a problem, should support be provided under the overhang end. Did k3 owners get by on a 20amp circuit and did you need to trick up your circuit breaker?
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30th April 2019, 11:08 AM #11Intermediate Member
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Derek, i have been trying to get a handle on how far the outrigger swings out from the saw body to assess the function of my space. I have an overall width dimension including the extended outrigger and 1250 rip rail but can't seem to get one for the saw when the outrigger is closed. If you get an opportunity at some time would you be kind enough to run a tape over your saw? Many thanks. Shane.
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30th April 2019, 12:00 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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Just to clarify, the old stop is standard fitment, the new one they want you to pay for. If I was to buy another I would buy the fine adjuster on the rip fence and add a Wixey or similar rip fence system. I did this and it removes the need the need to bump the fence into position and getting that final measurement is just a matter of turning a knob. It also gives repeatability that you don't get otherwise and when working with a Fritz & Franz jig is an unbeatable combination as the rip fence is used for a measured bump stop.
CHRIS
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30th April 2019, 12:10 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
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I can't comment on the power question as mine is three phase but my A3 runs from a 15 amp GPO with no issues. I think the 20 amp is a cover it all specification for all machines including the C3 which has a higher current need due to the spindle moulder etc and in the real world the stand alone saw does not need that. As it comes with no plug I would get a professional to wire it in for warranty reasons following Felder's guidelines.
it will cut your hypothetical piece of timber no problems at all and bigger if you wanted. If you felt you got to the stage of too heavy someone supporting the outer end might be wise or make a rolling support that can travel with the table.CHRIS
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30th April 2019, 01:33 PM #14Intermediate Member
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Thanks Chris. My first time on one of these forums. Great to be able to access such a wealth of knowledge and kudos to you guys being prepared to share. The sparky echoed your sentiment. Got a quote on the cast iron fence micro adjust. Felder were really helpful. I'm going to head down there and check a K3 in the flesh. Shane.
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30th April 2019, 05:18 PM #15Did k3 owners get by on a 20amp circuit and did you need to trick up your circuit breaker?
The slider extends 1000mm behind the saw body and 720mm in front when fully extended. This does not require an outrigger.
My K3 runs on (and was wired for) 15 amps. The A3-31 (with silent head) also runs on 15 amps. The digital gauge is essential for the thicknesser.
The N4400 bandsaw runs on 20 amps.
All my machines were installed by Felder in Perth, and set up. They did a wonderful job. The guys here offer a fantastic service.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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