Thread: HELP! - bad advice?

Originally Posted by Malcolm Eaton

I think it all comes down to what you expect to get out of a table saw. if you are comparing cutting panels and timber on a table saw with that of a top of the range Altendorf Panel saw with a sliding table there is no comparison for accuracy particular in handling and cutting large panels to size and squareness etc. It would be the same in comparing a Altendorf Panel Saw to cutting panels on a Beam Saw ( computer controlled) for production work where there is large quantities of varying size panels. The Beam saw for time and accuracy leaves every thing else for dead.
If you go back a few years I guess its it like comparing a Triton work centre to one of the various brand of table saw that are now available.
Its courses for courses.
Mac

Nicely putting things into perspective, Mac. I was just blown away by the quality of the Altendorf; on melamine, its accuracy was beyond my measuring capability. But obviously very big $$$$$$'s involved.

When I bought a Triton Mark 3 in 1984, the cheapest table saw I could find was around $3,000 - and $$'s were much bigger then! Times, they are a-changing.

Cheers

Graeme

Originally Posted by Honorary Bloke

Typically, when a salesman bags a product or suite of products, it is because he is trying to sell you something else.

I would be interested to know what he DID recommend to you? What barrow was he pushing?

Well you see, that's the thing. He didn't offer anything up as a solution, that's probably what me off the most. I have an interest, i have some $$ to spend, i gave him my criteria, wants, needs, common tasks performed... but didn't have a single solution for me!!

Originally Posted by Gwhat

Tony

To answer the questions....

1. You can upgrade the Flip Fences on the INCRA Mitre Gauges to the 27" - 49" version if you think you need it.
2. Give Ryan a call at Major Woodworking in Padstow, that's where my saw came from.

You're getting some good advice, digest it and ask more questions until you're satisfied enough to part with your hard earned $$$'s. Remembering that the advice doesn't stop when you've got the saw.

Regards

Grahame

Thanks Grahame, very helpful and greatly appreciated.

T

Originally Posted by dugjac

I agree that this guy obviously didn't know what he was talking about.

This is the saw that I just purchased after being recommended it by Grahame from PWS although his is branded Woodman and from a local supplier

Gary Pye Woodturning :: Gary Pye Woodturning - GPW 10/12" Table Saw

Great saw and GPW was the cheapest around when I factored in delivery - $150 from Qld to Melbourne, I also have the 1000HD which works well. I've just started using a Freud Blade and am really happy with the finish it gives to the cut.

I just purchased one of these machines as well and took my time setting it up .Mine came from the Jet Tool Shop Townsville.Great people to deal with
I purchased a Freud cross cut and a glue line rip blade to go with it, the finish from both blades is superb .
The fence that came with mine is an Acculine Biesemeyer fence and I cant fault it .
I also got an Incra 1000SE mitre gauge and same again took my time setting it up .
The machine is rock solid and well built ,runs smoothly and is super quiet .Ask my neighbours , I often am working after midnight cutting boards for box making and and my neighbour has said nothing about noise.
I cant fault the machine , the blades or the gauge.
I made a zero clearance throat plate from a piece of 12mm ply and used the original plate as a template to cut it out on my router table and a pattern bit ,adjusted the height of the new plate with some masking tape and couldn't be happier.
The only issue I have is with the original throat plate ,it bows upward when you tighten the hold down screws , as it needs an adjuster screw next to the hold down screw. A small problem that I can fix with a drill and a tap and a couple of small grub screws.

As an a side to this post , is it possible to make a zero clearance throat plate for the blade when the blade is tilted to 45deg ? Or is it needed ?
I've been trying to nut this out but can't see away of doing it with out actually trying it and having a prang or doing some unwanted damage.

Kev

Originally Posted by ecks79

Well you see, that's the thing. He didn't offer anything up as a solution, that's probably what me off the most. I have an interest, i have some $$ to spend, i gave him my criteria, wants, needs, common tasks performed... but didn't have a single solution for me!!

Sounds like he was playing with another type of wood to me or he had just gotten the sack and was on his last day and wanted to get back at the boss for sacking him.

As for getting cut marks in your finished pieces if you set up the blade correctly and get it running dead true you will not see a single mark, or very little anyway, provided it is a quality blade and no teeth are chipped, bent or otherwise damaged. As for the accuracy thing any machine is only as accurate as A.) the manufacturer has made it (generally these days even the cheaper machines are quite accurate, thanks to CNC manufacturing machines) and B.) the operators ability and attention to detail, a good operator can, sometimes, make a rather poor machine perform well beyond the capabilities of an average operator on a higher quality machine. my advice don't pay too much heed to what a salesman tells you unless he is using the said machinery.

I have something qualitive to add to the discussion. As I've mentioned before I bought my TTD saw and fitted the incra fence. The first project was a zero clearance insert. I faced the insert (bluegum) on the blade supplied with the machine, taking a sliver at a time until it was just the right thickness. The surface of the insert is within 5 thou across it's whole surface, 18" long and about 3 wide. With the incra I can remove a thou at a time, record the number then click it straight back to that thickness in an hour or a month later.

If your salesman mate reckons he can do that without an incra or similar device, or if he reckons it's not possible, well you can bring a micrometer over to my place and I'll do you a demo.

Remember if your going to get an incra anyway don't waste money on a saw with a good rip fence. You might even be able to negotiate the fence away for a discount. Same with the mitre gauge.

My V27 does me because I don't do fancy stuff with a mitre gauge. Ig you only need 90, 45, 30 and no sliding table it's fine. If you need 37.6 degrees the dearer ones are the go. The rail is longer on some of the others and that might improve things but the V27 is very good.