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8th September 2012, 01:28 PM #1Senior Member
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- Oct 2011
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Help selecting TS Blade - 1" bore.
Hi folks,
I just bought a table saw, a Bosch GTS 10 J. When I reviewed the specs on the Bosch website (item not listed on Australian Bosch website) it showed a 30mm blade bore. Cool, I thought, because there's lots of 30mm bore blades out there.
When I took the Bosch blade out this morning, the bore was marked 25.4mm (that is, 1 inch). What the!? A quick scan of the net leads me to believe that the 1" size is mostly reserved for 12" blades, cause there was not a lot out there. Bugger
That's dilemma one. The other is getting an ATB-R type blade for it so I can cut clean finger joints. The guy at Carba Tec tried to sell me an ATB blade and even showed me a finger joint sample with gaps all through it due to the uneven bottom of the cut. Not what I want to do
So the questions are where can I get 1" bore 10" diameter blades and is ATB-R necessary or would a TC design work? What else is there?
BTW, the saw is a lovely bit of engineering. Very nice
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8th September 2012, 03:32 PM #2Intermediate Member
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- Jul 2008
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- Bungendore
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You can get a bush that reduces the abour size from 30mm to 25.4.these should be readily available from where you purchase the blade. Triple tooth blades (I think that is what they are called) have two atb teeth and a flat tooth that gives a flat bottom cut. Have a look at CMT and flai blades. Stu from stus shed did review a while back on saw blades. He called it battle of the blades and it is oN his web site stusshed.com, that may help.
Andyd
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8th September 2012, 08:18 PM #3Senior Member
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- Oct 2011
- Location
- Brisbane
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- 104
Hey Andy, thanks for the reply. I picked up a couple of those bushes today. I figured I'd be stuck using 30mm blades.
The triple chip seems to be for laminated boards like melamine, do you reckon it would cut Aussie hard woods and pine without tearout?
Thanks for the link to Stus Shed BTW.
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8th September 2012, 08:30 PM #4Taking a break
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- Aug 2008
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- Melbourne
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- 34
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- 6,127
TC will rip timber well, but ATB is better for all round use.
ATB-R and TC are NOT the same; TC blades have square teeth with the corners knocked off every second tooth - these teeth are also higher than the square teeth between so you will not get a flat bottomed cut
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8th September 2012, 08:55 PM #5
If it broadens your search options, you could also look to blades with smaller bores, and have a saw doctor open the holes to your required size.
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8th September 2012, 09:02 PM #6Senior Member
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- Oct 2011
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- Brisbane
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- 104
Hi Mal,
I was considering that. Well a machinist actually. I think they'd have to mill it out, can't see how you could hold it in a lathe? Anyway, is that a common skill for saw doctors?
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9th September 2012, 11:28 PM #7
I have only ever dealt with 2, and the second is a breakaway from the first, but both have a step drill type tool covering all of the standard arbor sizes. Takes them about 5 minutes at most to step up a couple of sizes. No mill or lathe involved, remember the disk of your average TC tipped blade is not high speed steel, more a slight upgrade on mild steel. However both saw docs have been able to open out the arbor bore in HSS and cobalt cold saw blades, so should be able to do something for you. I suggest you check around your local docs before committing to a blade, but I doubt you would have a problem.
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