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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Default Help with TS blade alignment

    I have a Taiwanese contractor style saw bought from Trade Tools (see pic). I always had a few minor issues with getting straight cuts, but put it down to my own ineptitude or a misaligned fence (the original fence was woeful).

    Recently put on a new fence ... wonderful by comparison. Also, it led me to find the real problem. The blade is not properly aligned with the mitre slots in the table. So, with the fence now working well rip cuts are a breeze. However, cutting wide boards with the mitre or with a crosscut sled introduces problems.

    Before I tear this thing down in an attempt to find a solution I thought I'd ask the brains trust whether anyone had a similar experience and perhaps even some guidance on a fix.
    IMAG0107.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
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    3,207

    Default

    Not directly applicable to your particular saw, but I've been through all this with my JET saw a while ago. Some of the information in this thread may be helpful

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f153/t...visited-97781/

    You'll probably find a similar arrangement under your saw that basically allows the blade/arbour to be adjusted relative to the cast iron top. Once you've got the blade parallel to the mitre slot, remember to then tweak the fence so that it is parallel to the blade (or kicked out ever so slightly at the back of the blade - no more than a couple of thou).

    Hope this helps.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth
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    330

    Default

    There is a simple angle bracket devise that can be purchased from USA which is attached to the trunion bolts and the cast top which allows you to sideways adjust the position of the trunion and the top.
    If you go back some 3 or 4 years ago you may pick up reference to this simple devise or else one of the members may recall the name of the devise and you then can Google it.
    In my case I made a copy of the devise ( brackets) out of angle iron and it worked a treat.
    Best of luck.
    Malcolm Eaton

    The name of the devise is Contractors saw "Pals" and marketed by a company called In Line Industries.
    www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.
    I made them from 50 x50x 6mm angle iron and they ( 2 brackets) will only take about 1 hr to make by hand. Some time on Tues I will try to drawer a diagram of how you can make them.
    Malcolm Eaton
    Last edited by Malcolm Eaton; 8th January 2013 at 12:48 AM. Reason: additional info

  5. #4
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    Default Thanks guys ...

    I now know what to do ... the "how to" is going to be a bit more fun.

    When I attached the dust collection port on this saw, I used a sealant as well as a couple of bolts. Big mistake. After the bolts were removed the sealant stuck so well I might destroy the thin MDF DC port getting it off. It must come off so I can reach the bolts at the front of the table.

    Still, I must get that blade aligned.

    Thanks again.

  6. #5
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    Default Finished

    Thanks again. Turned out to be pretty simple, though awkward.

    Blade now aligned to within a poofteenth of a millimetre with the mitre slots.

    Amazing ... I now get square, clean cuts.

    Threw away the useless sliding table, replaced it with an MDF insert and used a crosscut sled instead. Trouble is that I used ply for the sled, and it warped a bit. Off to buy some melamine coated chipboard so I can make a new crosscut sled.

    Thanks again.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
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    3,207

    Default

    Glad to hear you got it sorted

    Always a fiddly job, but at least you should only have to so it once.

    Hope you checked rip fence alignment - since you moved the blade relative to the table, rip fence might now need a tweak too.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Yes,

    First thing after re-tightening the bolts I adjusted the fence and my mitre gauge.

    Cheerio!

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    330

    Default

    As promised I have attached a sketch of the side ways adjuster brackets ( PALs System) that I made for my table saw.
    I have found that over time you need to constantly check and adjust the line of the saw blade, the brackets allow you to check and adjust with ease.
    You will note that you need to remove and replace the Trunion fixing bolts with short lengths of similar diam threaded rod.
    These threaded studs allow you to fix the brackets to the Trunion.
    The side ways adjusting bolts I used Unbrako machine bolts, you will note that you will need lock nuts to finally lock in position after adjusting side ways.
    Hope this may help others with this problem.
    Cheers.
    Malcolm Eaton
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #9
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    Default Thanks, Malcolm

    That, sir, is a stroke of pure genius.

    Thanks!

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Port Macquarie
    Posts
    128

    Default

    Another hint, when adjusting my saw it would be stable when 3 of the four trunnion bolts were nipped up, then shift when the 4th was tightened- drove me crazy!
    Then I replaced the (deformed) washers which were causing the adjustment to settle back to the previous settings. Worked first time

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