Thread: Hikoki C10RJ (H1Z)

it looks like the metal part has come away from the insert

take it back to the shop and compare it with another one perhaps

hodgo

Like hodgo said take it back to the shop. Its defective. The purpose of the insert is to support the work and it needs to be flush with the table. That one looks like it never will be. I am not familiar with that saw but I wonder why they make an insert with another plate stuck on top. All the ones I have seen have been single piece construction. The spur thing sticking out is to prevent the plate kicking up.
OK I have looked at a video review to get a better understanding and the insert looks to be plastic so the metal plate will be under the anti kickbac spikes to prevent scratching. They should still be flush however. I would still be asking for a replacement insert. The good news is it looks like it would not be hard to make zero clearance inserts for that saw from ply or laminate flooring down the track in your woodworking adventure.
Regards
John

Thank you guys for the answers

the insert is made of metal. I think this is cast aluminium but will ask Hikoki service to confirm. The piece of metal on top looks more like steel.
most of other saw I have seen have a full steel metal plate but not this one.

i got the saw on special during Boxing Day for $600 shipped from QLD. I can’t just go back to the shop.
i have contacted Hikoki service for replacement plate

cheers
alexis

Hope the new plate is OK.
Sooner or later most tablesaw owners make a few zero clearance inserts.
Making zero clearance table saw inserts - YouTube

You can use ply or other sheet material if you like.
I was first going to post this clip but when I saw the dumb things the bloke was doing I had second thoughts. He did get the insert made and with luck still has his fingers. Anyhow have a look to see some things not to do on a tablesaw.
Making Zero Clearance Insert for Hitachi Metabo Table Saw C10RJS - YouTube
Regards
John

Originally Posted by MysteeX

Thank you guys for the answers

the insert is made of metal. I think this is cast aluminium but will ask Hikoki service to confirm. The piece of metal on top looks more like steel.
most of other saw I have seen have a full steel metal plate but not this one.
cheers
alexis

Hi Alexis,
I have exactly the same saw, mine is only one week old. While these are good saws, they are not without issues. Your zero clearance insert looks exactly the same as mine in terms of poor fit. I suspect that any replacement insert will be the same. My intention is to measure the support lugs in the table itself for discrepancies in height from the table top surface and make an insert to fit properly.

Other things you will need to check are:
1. Most importantly - check the blade and arbor runout - that is the amount the blade and/or arbor shaft 'may' wobble when spinning.
2. Blade parallelism to the mitre slots - mine was out by 1.5mm
3. The limit stops on the blade angle adjustment - do not trust a square to set, do test cuts and check the test cuts for square
4. Check and adjust the fence for parallelism to the mitre slot - it will be out too.
5. The supplied blade is not very good, mine has noticeable runout so I plan to replace it with a quality one.
**For any and all these checks, please refer to Youtube, there are many excellent tutorials on there which will step you through the processes**
There is a fine woodworker called Tamar on YT, her videos on saw setup are great and her saw is very similar to yours.

cheers

Harry

Thank you orraloon ne harry_b.

At this stage I have no answers from Hikoki. As the insert is not right, I will calibrate all other elements and do a zero clearance insert. I have not much hope Hikoki will come back to me soon…

I did watch the video from this guy of the second video you posted orraloon. When I watched it, I was quite shocked he still has his finger, and even he did not get the insert thrown back to him… This was clearly feeling unsafe to do in my guts and I would always follow my guts instincts . I will do my first cuts with someone else around just in case.

For the zero clearance insert, I have to address the following
1. The riving knife needs to be cut on the bottom to be removed otherwise you cannot remove it (unless you remove full mechanism which is a pain based on YT vids) and do a zero clearance insert
2. I might look to get a 8” blade for the initial cut and a 10” new blade if the quality of the one fitted is low. Any recommendation for the blades? Can I use my circular saw blade instead of buying a 8” just to do the inserts?

thanks

If the blade fits the shaft then yes you can start to cut the slot with it. That said be aware that there are different kerf widths and any blade you use on the saw for general work has to be right for the riving knife. Same kerf as the blade that came with it.
Regards
John

Thanks orraloon. I will take car the kerf is same size as the riving knife

I have been in touch with Hikoki and they will send me a replacement insert as well.

I have done all calibrations on the table. Next upgrade will be certainly blades and mitre gauge

Cheers

Originally Posted by MysteeX

I will take car the kerf is same size as the riving knife

I believe the riving knife should be thinner than the blade kerf but thicker than the blade plate.