Thread: Jointer Outfeed table adjustment for Combo machine

Can you adjust the height of the blades? That's where I'd be starting.

I now see from your other thread that it's a helical head, so the factory setting would appear to be all you've got. Is there any chance that it's your technique? Contacting the seller would appear to be your only option.

Originally Posted by aldav

Can you adjust the height of the blades? That's where I'd be starting.

No idea to be honest. I would have to check but I don't think so.

Its possible that there is an adjustment bolt somewhere deep in there, but I would imagine that when it is set correctly, it should not need to be adjusted unless the cutter block is changed out?

I will take a look though.

Thanks,

-Scott

No adjustment on out feed! I didn’t know that was a thing . What a pain. The only option is to adjust the blades then. There are a few conditions that happen to the cut if the blades are not in the exact position in relation to the rear table. Either end snipe or the strange condition where you can’t get a cut all the way through. And it’s all normally fixable by adjusting the rear table on most machines . You’re going to have to be very precise at setting blades that’s all.

edit . Helical head ! I Didn’t know that . I’ll have to look at the other thread .

Originally Posted by auscab

No adjustment on out feed! I didn’t know that was a thing . What a pain. The only option is to adjust the blades then. There are a few conditions that happen to the cut if the blades are not in the exact position in relation to the rear table. Either end snipe or the strange condition where you can’t get a cut all the way through. And it’s all normally fixable by adjusting the rear table on most machines . You’re going to have to be very precise at setting blades that’s all.

Before I go too much further, I will say I am very new to this machine, so more likely user error / lack of knowledge than capability of the machine! My initial thoughts were that you should be able to adjust the outfeed table height too. There are bolts that set the outer edge resting height, so when its flipped down from the raised position, its set correctly. Even my ooooooold!, jointer that I got rid of years ago, had a massive knurled hand wheel on the both the infeed and outfeed tables to set the heights relative to the cutter block, which was very structural in the centre of the machine. This is why I figured there wouldn't be an adjustment on the cutter block itself, but more likely the tables on either side. Things are made more complicated because its a combo machine that flips up the tables to be a thicknesser.

I will put a straight edge on it tonight and let you know what the outer edge is like. Maybe its so low that it needs adjustment and it will sort out the inner edge in the process! Hoping!

Cheers for the reply.

-Scott

When setting the tables I use a long straight edge, capable of spanning the length of both tables. Place a thin strip of paper across the leading edge of the out feed table (adjacent to cutter opening) and the same at the other end of the out feed table. Repeat on the infeed table. Lay straight edge onto the paper strips down the centre of the tables. Raise or lower the infeed table until all the paper strips are held snug under the weight of the straight edge. Adjust table angle if necessary. Now your tables are coplanar. Check, by moving the straight edge across the tables, that the paper strips are still snug to the tug and this will indicate if the tables are in wind. Now the blades can be set to the out feed table. Two pieces of dead straight timber, about 300mm long laid on the out feed table reaching over the cutterhead opening enough to touch the blades at the apex of their rotation. When the cutterhead is rotated by hand it should move the two pieces of wood equally towards the infeed table by a couple of mm. No more or you will get snipe. If your jointer is not fitted with screw adjusters you will have to shim in accordance with what your paper strips have told you. . Now your jointer will be your friend. Hope this helps.

It makes sense that a modern helical head machine could be designed with a fixed rear table on a buzzer . I have no knowledge of such things . Every machine I have is old school design.
If the cutters are not level with the fixed rear table an outside possibility is the head has the wrong size cutter in it . Is that a possibility ? Or is there only one size cuter that would fit ?

Okay, so I found the adjustment screw that I couldn’t see before. There is a couple of big machine bolts under the table on the main hinge and a sneaky little grub screw which adjusts the table height relative to the cutter block. I do see why they say it doesn’t need to be adjusted, but I disagree in my case. The difference between the inner and outer edge was that one was skimming against the workpiece, and the other one was not. There was a lot of trial and error and lifting and lowering the heavy cast iron table, but I got there in the end. Skimming gently on both sides.

IMG_3802.jpeg IMG_3804.jpeg

A bit of a crude mechanism, but if it looks stupid, and it works then it ain’t stupid.

Cheers for all the suggestions. My learning continues.

-Scott