Thread: This worth a look? (Table Saw)

Hi Undies
it looks like it has worked hard and the fence looks like it has had it. What is the asking price? What do you want it for and what do you have at present? Are you upgrading?
The reason I ask that is that I upgraded from a Triton to one very similar to the one you are looking at (in better condition) and don't regret it one bit. Having an adjustable height and tilt just makes it a pleasure to use over my old trusty Triton.

TT

PS
Welcome to the forum. This place is a font of uncomplicated wisdom. There is bound to be someone who knows this machine.

I think I mean fount

It looks like a typical contractor saw (outboard motor and slotted table wings) with crapy home made chipboard panels and a 4" dust port added.

It's certainly worth a look.
I'd bring along a straight edge and a square.
The straight edge is to check the flatness of the table. It won't give the absolute flatness but it will tell you if there is a major problem.
The square should allow you to test whether the blade can be made truly square to the table, sometimes the mechanism gets clogged preventing this from happening. Usually a good clean fixes it. Nevertheless it is a good bargaining point.
I can't see why TT says the fence is damaged.
It's just a basic fence but check that it slides freely. These types of fences usually need a tap or two in the right place to square them up.
I can't see a mitre slide - you will need this
The dust extraction port is too small and poorly located and I'll bet the enclosed section gets choked with sawdust.
It's better to use a square inverted pyramid hopper style hood that draws directly from under the blade.

I'd be offering no more than $450 and less if it has no mitre slide.

Hi Undies,

I have this exact same saw, only difference is the base, mine is on 4 legs. These were made in Taiwan and distributed under many brands over many years, this saw is likely to be from the late '90's. Mine had a hard life prior to me getting it and if it is anything to go by they are very reliable, simple and trouble free. Mine has a 2hp motor and seems to be able to handle most jobs that I throw at it. The splitter is missing from the one you are looking at, it includes anti kickback pawls and is a real PITA to reinstall if you have to take it off. I ended up making a cover for the fence using melamine covered MDF as my aluminium fence had a big bow in it. I mainly use 10" blades in it but have 12" rip and crosscut blades if the need arises. It has a 5/8" arbor and will accept a dado stack up to about 19mm.

It is certainly worth a look and if you could get it for around $300 it would be reasonable buying. As BobL suggested a straight edge to check the main table is a must. Don't worry too much about the side wings they can be shimmed. If the fence doesn't slide smoothly some wax on the rails works wonders - I find I have to do this regularly. If you do get it checking the alignment of the blade and mitre slots is a must, only way to adjust it is the saw body to table mounting bolts from underneath (the front bolts are very hard to get at). If you don't get a mitre guide with it you can have my old one if you pay for postage, I upgraded to an Incra, great investment.

I am pretty happy with mine and will be interested to hear how you go. If there is anything I can help with as to adjustments, foibles etc. I am only too happy to oblige.

Cheers,
David

Just had another look at the pictures you provided. Blade tilt won't be available on that saw with the timber panel over the back - the whole blade/motor mechanism tilts - so you would have to get rid of that to use the tilt. I would be surprised if BobL or some of the other members here couldn't give you some ideas on installing reasonable dust extraction without having to compromise the blade tilt.

When adjusting the blade height if you are adjusting down you need to take up the slack in the machanism by turning in the up direction before tightening or you will find the blade height moving as you tighten.

David

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

I think I mean fount

Nope, you were right the first time.

I've had that same tablesaw for the past 20 years (from Carba-tec - originally $1100 plus $500 for the sliding table). My guess is that the one in question is about 25-30 years old since it has the tubular rails for the fence (mine were rectangular). The fence is crap - it has to clamp fore-and-aft - and I replaced it with a Biesemeyer style from Carba-tec. So factor in about $350 for that.

The motor is 2 hp and decent. I cut hardwoods on mine. I have toyed with the idea of increasing the HP (because WA timber is bloody hard), but it has never been enough of an issue.

Mine has the sliding fence, which is fantastic. I am not sure if these are available any longer.

I am about to pull mine apart and renovate. There are probably linkages that are loose as the depth of cut does not hold (the blade will rise or fall as it spins). Everything else is terrific.

I also have built a router table into the end, and this certainly saves space.

David is correct about the dust control panel - the way it has been done will not allow the blade to tilt.



Regards from Perth

Derek

Cheers guys, thanks for the insight. They're asking $300 at the moment.

Another angle

3.jpg

Originally Posted by BobL

I can't see why TT says the fence is damaged.

Bob, I guess it looked battered at 12.26 last night. It looks like it dips in the middle for mine. But probably it's an optical on my part. I have a similar machine with an iron fence which seems more solid.

As far as dust extraction goes, I've installed a Big Gulp dust chute from Carba-Tec. Works a treat.

TT

Originally Posted by chrisb691

Nope, you were right the first time.

Yep I over think things sometimes Chris. However I did find this to stir things up

TT

Yep, saw that one too tt. However, I was brought up with font being correct, so that's it.

Hi Undies,
I will offer a different view. I have quite a few cheap units from H&F and Carba-tec and I have come to regret them all. None of them reward me with quality of use. I also have some much better units like Festool and Minimax and their quality rewards me every use. I also pay to use a workshop with super gear and it is a delight to use.
So, of corse it depends on your budget, bit IMHO it is better to save up and buy good quality, or even best quality than to buy cheapos. The second hand stuff you are looking at has only one advantage, it is cheap. But, cheap often delivers c#%*p quality. Remember, the pain of price is soon forgotten but the pain of poor quality lasts forever.

Well, I have Hammer equipment - both a 4400 bandsaw and a A3-31 thicknesser-jointer - so I feel I can speak with some experience. The tablesaw is very decent for $300. I would say that it would cost at least $1500 today in its equivalent delivery. The 4400 is about $2500 and the A3-31 version I have is about $6000. We are not comparing apples with apples here.

Would I like a better quality tablesaw than this? Sure. Do I need a better quality tablesaw? No. As I mentioned earlier, I plan to pull mine apart and rebuild (probably) the lift mechanism. But this is after two decades of sawing hardwoods. I think that it deserves a little TLC.

My only gripe with the saw are the plastic wheels. I will look into replacing them as well. Otherwise it is a solid machine ... especially for the money. I would't hesitate to purchase it for $300 as long as the motor is working and the adjustments do what they are meant to do.

Regards from Perth

Derek