Thread: New Machinery

Jet had a great (great price) 16" thicknesser on the stand there, if I had had some spare cash I would have sold off my 14" and dragged it home.

Hi Claw hama,
You must have been looking at Major Woodworking Machinery stand.I bought a freud combination blade off the guy for $90.00. He was trying to sell me a jointer, I bought my gear off Gary Pye. Good service he brought it down from brissie no charge and a small delivery charge from the show to my place. So what I saved paid for the mobile stand for the ts.
cheers

Hi Greg,

Been searching for a good table saw.
What price is on the Jet unit and are they located in Novo country.
Some saw prices and quality are off the planet...

Hi Splinterman,
The saw cost $1575 @ the time and it was his only one.I have notice on their website that the price is $1625 now. You have to pay that much for a decent saw.

Hi Greg,

Damm........everything seems to go up right when your trying to get more gear.

Hope your unit meets your expectations.

Lets know how it goes.

Odd, I just went to measure the thread on my handle. It's ~36mm without the washer and 34mm in length with the washer. It locks down fine with very little room to spare on the underside.

So, does your mitre gauge thread show 20mm when above the gauge and screwed in to the max?

Is your handle placed in the correct hole?

Pic might help.

I have exactly the same JET saw, and within 3 months of buying it I had upgraded the following

- Ditch the JET ripping blade supplied, and get a decent combo blade (I got an Infinity). Not only does this largely remove the need for blade changes, it actually rips much better than the JET dedicated ripping blade....

- The supplied mitre gauge is also a piece of junk IMHO. I found there was considerable slop in my gauge even with the handle locked down tight. This is caused by the insert the handle screws into being a loose fit in the body of the gauge - the whole thing moves around ! I replaced this with the cheapest of the Incra mitre gauges (V27), and the difference is astounding. Not only does this Incra gauge lock into the mitre slot better, it is rock solid when locked and completely repeatable.

As an aside (one thing leads to another....), I built an adapter to hold my digital vernier gauge on the Mitre gauge, and used this to check how parallel the blade is to the mitre slot. The Incra gauge is such an excellent fit that I can get totally repeatable results sliding from one edge of the blade to the other, and it is out by 0.25mm. This might explain the very slight 'catch' I get on the back of the blade when running board through. Feeling very pleased with myself at this point, I thought "now I just have to loosen the trunnion bolts and adjust the blade carriage parallel to the mitre slot, set the fence parallel to both, and I'll be right". Delved into the JET manual...................it appears that on this saw you have to turn it upside down and virtually disassemble the entire saw to get at the trunnion bolts. I'm still trying to find a way to reach in though the dust port side of the cabinet to make the adjustment without all this work......

Enjoy your new JET tools. I have the saw and a jointer, and although both required a bit of tweaking they are still excellent machines.

Hi Garethr & Mr Brush,
The mitre gauge leaves about 10mm thread above the mitre gauge and is very tight. Yes Mr Brush I will probably go your way and go for the incra. I thought the jet one would be fine. What size boards are you crosscutting. I have a 12in Matika scms, so crosscutting isn't to much of a problem for narrow boards.
cheers

Hi splinterman,
It is a brillant for the price. As mr brush says the blade is crap and the mitre gauge is not much better. The rip fence is very accurate and solid. I think with most machinery you have to up market a few accessories to get the extra benefit from your investment.
cheers

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

I thought "now I just have to loosen the trunnion bolts and adjust the blade carriage parallel to the mitre slot, set the fence parallel to both, and I'll be right". Delved into the JET manual...................it appears that on this saw you have to turn it upside down and virtually disassemble the entire saw to get at the trunnion bolts. I'm still trying to find a way to reach in though the dust port side of the cabinet to make the adjustment without all this work......

You should only have to adjust the table saw top, not the trunion assembly.

On my saw there is a bolt in each corner of the underside of the table.

Loosen these keeping one firm and move the table top until the blade is aligned with the mitre slots.

My saw is not a jet but I imagine this would be possible on any decent saw.

thedge - mine was the same. I thought the thread was too long and was stopping the handle locking tight enough, so I actually took some material off the threaded part. It makes no difference - turn the whole thing upside down and watch as you waggle the gauge part about, you'll see the bush that the handle screws into moves around. I couldn't think of any easy way to fix this, hence the Incra replacement. I'm crosscutting boards up to about 300mm - have just bought the birch ply to make a HUGE crosscut sled for bigger stuff.

I agree - it is a great saw for the price, and with the right blade will give hours of harmless fun. The fantastic fence was one of the reasons I paid more for this saw over the basic Carbatec $1000 models, none of which had a fence I was happy with.

Jack E - sorry, that doesn't work with this saw . The mitre slot is cast into the table top. The entire motor and blade assembly also hangs off the table top, but there are no through bolts. So.....in effect the entire saw is intimately attached to the cast top - the base assembly has no effect at all on alignment of blade to mitre gauge. For your idea to work (which I'm sure it does with some saws) the motor/blade assembly would have to be attached to the base/frame of the saw rather than the cast top. The JET manual actually talks about turning the saw upside down, remove the entire stand, THEN loosen the trunnion bolts to make adjustments. This would have been easy if I had thought to check it during assembly, but silly me assumed the blade would be perfecty aligned to the mitre slot. The 0.25mm error isn't enough to cause huge problems, but the back of the blade definitely interferes slightly with the wood on the way through, instead of falling travelling entirely within the kerf cut by the front of the blade. I think the mitre slot need to be aligned to the blade to within <0.1mm to prevent this altogether.

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

Jack E - sorry, that doesn't work with this saw . The mitre slot is cast into the table top. The entire motor and blade assembly also hangs off the table top, but there are no through bolts. So.....in effect the entire saw is intimately attached to the cast top - the base assembly has no effect at all on alignment of blade to mitre gauge. For your idea to work (which I'm sure it does with some saws) the motor/blade assembly would have to be attached to the base/frame of the saw rather than the cast top.

Boy am I glad I bought a TSC10HB and not a jet.

That sounds like a pretty big oversight to not build easy adjustability into the saw.

Hi The Edge man,

I agree with the "Up Market" idea to a degree but wonder why the companies who makes these machines cannot implement a better quality control system and display pride of workmanship with their products.

People today are becoming extremely ticked off with goods that do not meet their requirements or specified criteria.

When you spend Champagne money you dont want ginger beer gear.....jmho.

Cheers.
Splinterman.

Hi splinterman,
Most companies cut down on cost to remain competative and stay in business. That's properly why their pricing is as such. If you want something better you pay extra. Aftermarket products know this and cater for it.They provide a whole new specialised product for that market. Some of these add on products are nearly as expensive as the as the product that you are buying it for. So it is a good idea to buy right the first time and sve yourself a lot of pain and money in the future. Anyhow, that's my two cents worth.
cheers