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Thread: Makita MLT 100 Wiring diagram
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24th January 2014, 11:55 PM #1
Makita MLT 100 Wiring diagram
Hi all, name is Richard, I don't think I have posted here before, I am in need of some help regarding an MLT100, I recently acquired, is not in too bad shape but need a bit of TLC, the problem is that I need a wiring diagram, you see the person that had it before changed the soft start unit in the switch assembly and there are a couple of wires that are not connected, it is working ok but those wires not connected worry me a bit, any help would be appreciated,
thanks for reading this,
Richard.
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24th January 2014 11:55 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th January 2014, 09:35 AM #2
Thanks for looking all, I have found a supplier that sells all the spare parts, so I may buy a new switch assembly, only $54.00.
Richad.
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29th May 2018, 10:15 AM #3New Member
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Hi, I'm having a problem with my MLT100, when I push the "ON" button it will run... but after i let go of the switch, the motor will stop running, anyone know how to make a direct switch for MLT100?
I have investigated and the problem lies on our outlet voltage, it is supposed to be 220V but after testing with multimeter I am reading about 175v~180v only during daytime (all my neighbors are having the same problem with the power utility have also filed a complaint with electric utility staff).at night time everything is fine power reading about 230V and my MLT100 runs smoothly.
can anyone direct me on how to convert the switch so that it wont be like the magnet switch installed on my MLT100, im looking at three wires thank you
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29th May 2018, 11:48 PM #4
If you were to bypass the switch somehow and operate the saw at 180V or lower for moderate periods and loads, you will burn out the motor. Electric motors will try and meet the demands placed upon them by drawing more and more current from the supply, which will lower supply voltage further forcing them to draw more current. Ultimately they overheat and either burn their insulation or blow a thermal fuse embedded in the windings. Then the cost of repairs approaches the cost of replacement. In short, don't try to push your luck.
The only solutions would be to correct the input voltage, either by having the supply authority solve their problem, by locating and using a transformer than can boost the low input voltage to the nominal voltage required by the unit and provide sufficient current for the motor, or by powering the saw from a generator rated to supply the appropriate voltage and a lot more current than the saw is rated at (motors draw up to 6 times their rated current briefly when starting, if the current is limited, they don't start properly and are more prone to burning out).I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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