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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    newcastle
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    3

    Default Makita MLT100 blade alignment

    Hi all,

    1st post from a middle aged learner woodworker. Great forum you have here, thanks in advance for any help.

    I bought a MakitaMLT100 table saw a while ago and I’m trying to set it up to be a bit more accurate. I made a stand for it using the saw, and realised there’s a fair bitof play in the fence, as noted in other threads, so that’s another project already. The goal is to make some speaker cabinets initially, and eventually some simple furniture.

    I checked out the woodwhisperer vid, using one of the test methods the blade appears to be a fair bit out of parallel with the mitre slots.
    The manual does’nt say how to adjust the blade (only the fence).

    Unless I’m missing something, the method described in this thread https://www.woodworkforums.com/f153/h...gnment-164347/ is’nt applicable to the Makita – the top is bolted to the base from within the base. This thread :

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f153/makita-tablesaws-120114/index3.html#post1394232

    refers to some screws for this adjustment, however it’s not clear to me which screws. There are 2 under the table at each end (see photos),can anyone confirm if these are the adjustment screws ? I can't see any other likely candidates.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jamtin; 16th January 2013 at 06:37 PM. Reason: error correction

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    britain
    Posts
    1

    Default mlt100 blade alignment problems

    I am having exactly the same problem with my mlt100.
    It seems you have to dismantle the saw, I am sure this can not be right.
    I would also be grateful if anybody has a solution.
    My mitre gauge seems to have been made for a different saw,
    I am beginning to wonder if this is a common problem.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Also just come across the same problem.

    I haven't had a chance to try this out yet but from looking at the saw the photo's in the first post don't show the correct screws. Those ones hold the motor to the table and allow it to pivot to make the cut angle.

    The ones you want mount the motor to the side of the blade enclosure via two bars with flats machined on the ends. It looks like the rear mount is the only one that can be adjusted easily.
    Loosen the front bar screws, take the screws out of both ends of the rear bar, put shims (M5 washers) under the flats of that bar and tighten everything up, bit of trial and error might be needed.

    As I said, I haven't tried this yet, got too cold stripping down to see inside today but it seems the right way.

    While you're in there I'd check the tightness of all the screws holding the base to top, I found 3 missing and the remaining three loose.

    MLT100.jpg


    Rich

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    newcastle
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    3

    Default

    Thanks Rich, I'll give that a go. Makes more sense than my suggestion. The original thread referred to adding washers to change alignment, I could'nt see how that was going to help with the screws I was looking at.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    newcastle
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    Default

    I had a go at putting shims in as suggested by Rich_J. The distance to the mitre track is pretty close at both the front and back of the blade now (rotating the blade to check against the same tooth). I have’nt done any test cuts yet to check.

    I used 2 x 3/16” washers top and bottom under the rear post the blade slides on. (see the attached photo). Fortunately this moved the blade in the right direction for me eg reduced extra clearance at rear of blade. To correct the other way would be awkward, you’d need a curved shim or to compressa flat washer (the front post sits in a groove).

    It was a bit fiddly to put the washers in, I ended up taking the table top off. Trying to do it with the top on, I dropped the screw at top of the rear post when I unscrewed it, so had to take the top off to get at it. I doubt that I would have had sufficient access to insert the washers under the post anyway.

    In addition to taking the 6 screws holding the top on, I had to take off the black plastic caps that attach the carriage shaft to the top, in order to remove the blade/motor carriage assembly from the table top. Hopefully I have’nt buggered the machine up in the process, will give it a go soon.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Cairns
    Posts
    5

    Angry MLT100 Blade alignment issues

    Thanks for this informative post guys. My MLT100 was also misaligned from the factory. I didn't discover the inaccuracy until the two week replacement policy had expired and the local power tools agent quoted Makita as saying "well it's not a precision instrument and if you wanted more accuracy, I should have gone for the more expensive model"...WT*!!!

    So Makita openly admit they make inferior saws that can't cut parallel to the mitre gauge slots. I think the legal phrase is "not fit for the purpose". I left a terse message with the manager at Bunnings who promised to contact the rep - we'll see what happens - stay posted.
    Nick

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Israel
    Posts
    1

    Default Thanks Jamtin. Just got my new mlt 100 and have the same problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by jamtin View Post
    I had a go at putting shims in as suggested by Rich_J. The distance to the mitre track is pretty close at both the front and back of the blade now (rotating the blade to check against the same tooth). I have’nt done any test cuts yet to check.

    I used 2 x 3/16” washers top and bottom under the rear post the blade slides on. (see the attached photo). Fortunately this moved the blade in the right direction for me eg reduced extra clearance at rear of blade. To correct the other way would be awkward, you’d need a curved shim or to compressa flat washer (the front post sits in a groove).

    It was a bit fiddly to put the washers in, I ended up taking the table top off. Trying to do it with the top on, I dropped the screw at top of the rear post when I unscrewed it, so had to take the top off to get at it. I doubt that I would have had sufficient access to insert the washers under the post anyway.

    In addition to taking the 6 screws holding the top on, I had to take off the black plastic caps that attach the carriage shaft to the top, in order to remove the blade/motor carriage assembly from the table top. Hopefully I have’nt buggered the machine up in the process, will give it a go soon.

    Just to be sure:
    My blade is miss-aligned in a way that the rear of the blade is slightly more right than the front.
    Meaning the rear of the blade is closer to the right T slot than the front of the blade.
    Will this fix my problem as well.

    Did you put shimes only where you drew a yellow arrow, or also on the top screw ?

    Thanks in advance.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by teknixtrix View Post
    TI didn't discover the inaccuracy until the two week replacement policy had expired and the local power tools agent quoted Makita as saying "well it's not a precision instrument and if you wanted more accuracy, I should have gone for the more expensive model"...WT*!!! Nick
    After my recent experience with makita (& bunnings) - I bought the makita biscuit joiner and the handle snapped on first use 34 days later (bunnings wouldn't take it back as it wasn't within 30 days..) and I had to go and argue with the makita rep as they initially wouldn't accept it back either - and things like this ie a saw that is crap straight from the factory, plus a few other bits and pieces, I've decided to never buy makita again. It simply isn't the brand it used to be, ie my first cordless drill from makita which I bought 30 years ago is still working well, as are my other makita tools that I bought all over a decade ago. However, nothing I've bought from them in the last decade is still working, which is a sure sign that quality has been dropping.

    The saw in this post is a classic example of that - I found the post as I'm looking for a portable table saw - and after reading this wouldn't touch a MLT100 with a barge poll... So I'm now think of makita in the same manner as ryobi or ozito etc ie it might be a good tool, but then again it might not...

    Instead of makita (apart from the biscuit joiner..) I've been buying bosch stuff for the last couple of years instead, and I must say I've been impressed with everything so far...

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Pakenham, Victoria
    Age
    53
    Posts
    350

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Beginer View Post
    Just to be sure: My blade is miss-aligned in a way that the rear of the blade is slightly more right than the front. Meaning the rear of the blade is closer to the right T slot than the front of the blade. Will this fix my problem as well. Did you put shimes only where you drew a yellow arrow, or also on the top screw ? Thanks in advance.
    Hi beginer

    My blade is misaligned the same way as yours. Really disappointing. I will be pulling mine apart some time in the next few months to work out how to shimmy the blade parallel. Did you have a go with yours?

    Danny

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Pakenham, Victoria
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    Default

    Hey Jamtin

    How is your saw going? Is the alignment better and has it stayed that way after use? I'm yet to try mine.

    Danny

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by danny.s View Post
    Hi beginer

    My blade is misaligned the same way as yours. Really disappointing. I will be pulling mine apart some time in the next few months to work out how to shimmy the blade parallel. Did you have a go with yours?

    Danny
    Hi

    My blade was misaligned in the same direction, I put 3 .95mm washers in the rear post and now the blade is around .3mm out front to back. Good enough for now. Getting the 3rd washer in was really tight, I'm not sure if an additional .3mm washer would fit in without something going "snap".


    Regards

    Quintin

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Koedijk
    Posts
    1

    Default [langtitle=nl]Hallo Quintin[/langtitle]

    [lang=nl]I was planning to buy one.Do you still think it,s worthwhile.
    Nico[/lang]
    Quote Originally Posted by ascension View Post
    Hi

    My blade was misaligned in the same direction, I put 3 .95mm washers in the rear post and now the blade is around .3mm out front to back. Good enough for now. Getting the 3rd washer in was really tight, I'm not sure if an additional .3mm washer would fit in without something going "snap".


    Regards

    Quintin

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Pakenham, Victoria
    Age
    53
    Posts
    350

    Default

    Finally got around to trying to fix the alignment. Mine was out 1.5mm. After a couple of failed attempts, I inserted a random washer under each end of the forward post and it looks pretty close! Only measuring with a rule though but will be close enough for my needs. Very pleased.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Randburg South Africa
    Posts
    1

    Default Makita can't cut straight

    Hi folks, I have a similar problem with my Makita MLT100. In relation to the Left mitre slot the blade is out by .7mm front to rear. I.E. Rear of blade is .7mm closer to the Left slot. .7mm over the measuring width of 250mm is just way too far out (2.8mm for every 1 metre of board length), it is totally impossible to make any accurate cuts. I have tried the washer behind post idea, but that pushes the blade in the wrong direction. Any other suggestions on what to do?

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    narrabri
    Age
    51
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    Default

    i am having trouble getting my mlt100 to cut 90 degrees to the table, i set it straight then make a test cut and with a block about 80-90mm square its over 1 or 2 mm out, something must be moving i guess

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