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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Perth, South of the river
    Posts
    64

    Default MBS-300 saw stop fence upgrade - help.

    Hi guys!

    Long time since posting!!

    Finally a new fence!!! Carbetec to the rescue after too many years trying and giving up.....Beyond stoked!

    It was my job over Xmas break but it never eventuated..... Shed is much clearer and organized though... 🫣

    I started measuring up my new sawstop Industrial T glide fence last night and hit a snag ....

    The fence measurements are about 30mm off without cutting extra bits out for the tracks.... Has anyone hit this snag before? I thought it would be a simple process........

    Are the distances between tracks standard or different between saw models?

    I have to cut the fence assembly and rail down as I love the sliding table on my old Woodman (which I already did ....) But want to maximise cutting width.

    While I'm here, what height do the front and rear rails sit below the table saw bed?

    Any help appreciated!

    Cheers

    Steve
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    NSW
    Age
    38
    Posts
    1,135

    Default

    So are you putting a saw stop fence on a carbatec saw?

    There would be no consistency between fence and brands. It would be cheaper to just stick a new ruler tape over the old ones. Might need to pack the "lens" up a bit if there isnt enough clearance.

    Other then that i'd buy a wixley or equivalent DRO and not worry about the analogue measurement. I have a DRO on my sawstop and love it.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,039

    Default

    I'm confused! It looks like the first pic. is the front fence rail and the second pic. is the rear rail, is that right? If that is the case have you switched the front rail to the rear and vice versa? The measuring tapes would appear to me to be going in the wrong direction.

    When you say, "Are the distances between tracks standard or different between saw models?", you're talking about the distance between the mitre slots in the table? I wouldn't expect that there is anything standard about that measurement across different models.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    89

    Default

    I replaced the fence on my MBS-300 a couple of months back and it did require a bit of work. I now have this fence - Buy Fence Tablesaw Align A Rip Cap. 30in. at Busy Bee Tools
    I picked-up second hand from verawood

    Replace the measuring tape, I peeled it off and just replaced with a new right-hand self-adhesive tape. Then it's possible to nudge the viewing window to line-up. Afterwards I actually replaced the tape with an Igaging DRO and measuring tape, which works really well

    I had the same issue with the fence holes hanging over and not all of them lining up with the table. I marked and drilled out new holes in the steel rails to both move it over to the right, out of the way of the slider and to use all the holes in the cast iron table.

    The MBS has a long (front-to-back) table, longer than the saw stop. The support point at the back end of the fence didn't line up. So I made a bit of a hack bracket to support it at the end and run along the back rail.

    As for the height of the rails - probably a bit different for each fence. I just used the same holes in the saw and then the fence itself has adjustment points to lift up and down a few mm and I just matched the back end to where the front ended up sitting, sits a mm or 2 above the table top.

    You can see some pics in my dust guard thread - Fully adjustable tablesaw blade guard and dust extraction
    Happy to take more if needed.

    Was a fair bit of tinkering, lining up and drilling steel - But I'm really happy with the upgrade now.

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