Thread: Minimax C26 Genius

Not that specific machine, but I did the conversions for both jointer and thicknesser at my old work and it's generally not a complex operation by itself (just unbolt parts until you have access, then put it back together), but the fact that it's a combo means that aligning everything after assembly might be a massive pain depending on what adjustment mechanisms are on the machine...

If there's no vertical adjustment in the bearing blocks, you'd need to set ALL the machine tables to the new head after installation, which could mean resetting the saw table and the zero position on the saw tilt, realigning the slider, re-squaring spindle moulder shaft and resetting the thicknesser table as well.

I'm not saying it will come to that, just something to be aware of.

Thanks Elan. I had a close look at the C26 & it looks as if they build it from the P/T side first, then fit the saw/moulder module & then the slider. You are right, there are so many adjusting bolts my mind boggles!! I am mechanically astute, but I MUST talk to someone who has done it before. Peter

As a fellow C26 owner I am very interested in this. My previous enquiries for a helical head to suit were unsuccessful. Shelix had some dimensional drawings but had not made one and wanted me to confirm everything which I didn't feel confident to do.

Hi Colin, Robert Gregory of Wizard products supplies the CTS cutter block. He has sold a number of units for the CU-300 which shares common parts. I have asked him to introduce me to someone who has done the changeover. If it is just a matter of removing the outer bearing block & the pulley, I will happily go ahead, but if it is as involved as the discussion with Elan, I'm not so sure......Peter

Have spoken to an SCM tech who said to remove the pulley & the outer bearing housing & the cutter will slide out with the bearings intact. The conversation went around in circles for a while, so I still want to speak to someone who has actually done the changeover. What are your thoughts, Elan, as you have seen my machine? Peter

Originally Posted by Repete

Have spoken to an SCM tech who said to remove the pulley & the outer bearing housing & the cutter will slide out with the bearings intact. The conversation went around in circles for a while, so I still want to speak to someone who has actually done the changeover. What are your thoughts, Elan, as you have seen my machine? Peter

Like I said before, changing the head is the easy part, it's what happens afterwards that could go a few ways.

If the cutting diameter on the replacement head is identical (within 0.01-0.02mm) to the one coming out, it should be a straight swap (maybe some minor tweaks), if it's different, there are 2 ways it could go:
1) The diameter is slightly smaller. This is probably not a huge issue, as the bearing housings can be shimmed up to bring it level with the table, assuming both housings are removable. You might need to adjust the scale on the thicknesser, no big deal.
2) The diameter is slightly bigger. This is where the fun starts as you'll have essentially changed the reference point for the entire machine and then everything has to be brought back in line again. The easiest way would probably be to machine the bearing housings down to the required size (or a bit under and shim them back up), otherwise it's a case of adjusting all the tables to suit.

I helped change a head where the cutting diameter was wrong and the result was not good but we evenually solved it. If the both jointer tables are adjustable the reference has to be the cutting diameter and on straight blades reference to the table height so that means the cutting diameter on straight blades is not a reference. When quoting a cutting diameter for the new head there is no fixed reference to quote except the one it is set up to at the moment then the new head arrives and if the tables do not have enought height change in them the new head does not work. The only way to approach the problem is to set the tables at mid height and then set the blades to that height, that becomes the quoted diameter for the new head. I have also saw the result of a new head l lose cutters which was a pants wetting moment and the supplier did not want to talk about at all. Holbren in the US will know the correct diameter for any machine or how to get it correct. Whiteside Router Bits, Byrd Shelix Heads and Other Woodworking Tooling

The Tersa head has self-setting straight blades, so they can be accepted as a reference in this case, the replacement helical head will similarly be a fixed reference that must be worked around.

When I did the jointer at my old work, the new head was slightly different, but a stand alone machine is pretty easy to reset, the main issue in this case is that there are multiple other parts that will also rely on the cutter for their datum.

Originally Posted by Repete

Robert Gregory of Wizard products supplies the CTS cutter block.

I had ordered and paid for one from him a few years back at a woodworking show when it was at Caulfield. After waiting some time and hearing nothing I went back to him and he advised that neither of his suppliers, Shelix and CTS, had actually made one for the C26. He ended up refunding me. As mentioned previously, I followed up Shelix/Byrd a year or so ago hoping that they might have done one by now. They at least had a drawing but had not made one.

This is interesting! RG sent me a drawing marked 'Byrd' & dated 6.11.09 & the diameter is 62mm. This drawing measurements differ from those that I can take off the Tersa head & may be based on the straight knife head show in the parts manual. The Tersa head is 60mm & the blades project 1mm= 62mm diameter.
RG has not yet responded to my request for a contact who has changed over the CU-300.

Originally Posted by Huon pine fan

I had ordered and paid for one from him a few years back at a woodworking show when it was at Caulfield. After waiting some time and hearing nothing I went back to him and he advised that neither of his suppliers, Shelix and CTS, had actually made one for the C26. He ended up refunding me. As mentioned previously, I followed up Shelix/Byrd a year or so ago hoping that they might have done one by now. They at least had a drawing but had not made one.

That doesn't fill me with confidence... Our thicknesser head was custom made by Byrd as they didn't stock the early model of our machine (SCM S63 L'Invincible) and, despite providing a clearly dimensioned drawing, it still turned up wrong (after waiting over 3 months).

Fortunately it was able to be re-machined locally as the diameters were big, not small, and they covered that cost, but for $5k (back when the dollar was strong) I was expecting nothing less than perfect out of the box.

I can't fault RG for his handling of it all and by the end of it he was as ticked off with Byrd as we were, but if it's not a stock item I'd be making sure you got a signed copy of their production drawing before going any further.

MiniMax C26 Genius combination machine - I Wood Like :I Wood Like

You can try these guys for spiral head.

My c26 thicknesseser motor burned out rang these guys, $700 + for a replacement motor! I got local motor reminder done for $300.

When I tried them a couple of years ago they said they they weren't selling retrofit kits for earlier machines because they were too expensive

I wonder whether it's worth it? Spiral cutters are nice, but not essential. They're much quieter... but I still have to wear my ear protection because the dusty howls like a banshee. The only other real advantage is if you work with recycled wood and aren't great at finding all the nails. Spinning one carbide cutter is easier than re-sharpening or replacing a long straight blade.

If it was an easy job with a tried and tested head, I'd consider it, but otherwise I recon they're a bit over-hyped.

Originally Posted by Huon pine fan

When I tried them a couple of years ago they said they they weren't selling retrofit kits for earlier machines because they were too expensive

More like too hard. All they need to do is change a few dimensions in their CAD/CAM package, the software sorts out the rest

Originally Posted by Bernmc

I wonder whether it's worth it? Spiral cutters are nice, but not essential. They're much quieter... but I still have to wear my ear protection because the dusty howls like a banshee. The only other real advantage is if you work with recycled wood and aren't great at finding all the nails. Spinning one carbide cutter is easier than re-sharpening or replacing a long straight blade.

If it was an easy job with a tried and tested head, I'd consider it, but otherwise I recon they're a bit over-hyped.

I think you're forgetting the biggest advantage: significantly reduced tearout in figured timber. It's not quite as good as a drum sander, but miles ahead of straight knives; I have even run endgrain cutting boards through our thicknesser with no trouble (it's a killer on the inserts in terms of wear, but the finish is remarkable).