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  1. #1
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    Oct 2021
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    Default Newbie questions about the Dewalt DWE7491-XE

    Hi all,

    I'm brand new to all of this and was just wondering if I might trouble you all with a couple of questions. I've jumped in and bought the Dewalt DWE7491-XE.

    I know in the reviews the folks complain about the bore size, am I right in assuming that a US 5/8th will fit, even though they're fractionally different to the 16mm size?

    Secondly, I'm looking at getting a better "finishing" type blade and was looking at the Diablo or Freud - thoughts? I'm not really fussed about thin kerfs (should I be?), it was more the smoothness of the final cut I was looking at (I was looking at the 80 or 90 tooth one). The few cuts I've made in plywood have chipped a bit.

    Finally, anyone have any integrated workbench/feed table designs they're proud of and care to share? I've got mine currently on the Dewalt stand, but it takes a fair bit of space and isn't terribly efficient (storage underneath, out table etc.)...Just trying to gather ideas on that...I'm not likely to size massive sheets of plywood, I'm doing small boxes and a couple of tables potentially...

    Thanks
    Chris

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Aus
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    Default

    Hi Chris,

    I'm happy with mine overall. As long as you recognise that you have a contractor saw and don't expect it to do the job of a big fixed table saw you'll be happy.

    A few things:
    • I'm pretty sure bore size is actually 5/16" - I've been buying Freud blades with that size and they fit. 15.875mm (5/16") is pretty close to 16mm so I think it's either within machining tolerances or someone in marketing just rounded it??
    • You really need to use thin kerf blades with this machine - the riving knife is only suitable for > 2.2mm blades and the machine has the appropriate power to match this.
    • I have a 24T Freud ripping blade (red coating) and a 40T crosscut blade - all thin kerf. Both give a good finish when sharp but you do need a quick pass with a handplane or fine sandpaper.
    • When I make panels, I crosscut first to allow the back edge to tear out, then rip to final size to get rid of the tearout. If you're worried about chipping, you probably need to make a zero clearance insert or a sled if they are small parts. There are videos on how to do a zero clearance insert for this saw on youtube.
    • Resharpening your blades when they get dull does wonders - my local mob charge $15-$20 per blade. Less tearout, less digging in and marking of the cut face.


    I've put my saw on a cabinet with lift wheels (i.e. sits flat on ground except when wheels are engaged) and integrated a router lift next to it. If I had more space the router would be on its own table, but I mostly use it for roundovers and flush trimming against templates, so I'd rather keep the floor space! For outfeed I use a pair of roller stands from Timbecon if I need them. I'll share a photo later when I get a chance.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    2,589

    Default

    15.875mm is 5/8" not 5/16". Just for the sake of clarity and to avoid confusion. An 80 tooth thin kerf fine finish blade will do an infinitely better job on cross cutting and plywood than a 40 tooth combination blade. D1080X | Saw Blades | Wood Cutting | Ultra Finish - Diablo Tools

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    26,157

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by calgarychris View Post
    Hi all,

    I'm brand new to all of this and was just wondering if I might trouble you all with a couple of questions. I've jumped in and bought the Dewalt DWE7491-XE.

    I know in the reviews the folks complain about the bore size, am I right in assuming that a US 5/8th will fit, even though they're fractionally different to the 16mm size?
    The range of 5/8 or 16 mm bore blades will be fewer than those with 20/25/30 mm bores.

    Then, you have to make or purchase a bush to reduce the blade bore to suit your saw shaft.

    Tool places, like Carbatech, sell bushes that enable 20/25/30 mm bore blades to fit different size shafts eg 16 mm, or a different bush to fit a 5/8 - just get the right one.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Ryde, NSW, Australia
    Age
    61
    Posts
    131

    Default

    Ive got one too - and thought about integrating it into a workbench. In the end I did the same as PFH and put it on a rolling cabinet that slides away under my workbench.

    I tend to use my track saw for cutting up large sheets and use the Default for smaller cuts especially for repeated cuts.

    Bunnings sell bush kits which you will need if you change the blade. I got a Diablo from Bunnings.

    Good luck with it!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    44
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PFH View Post
    Hi Chris,

    I'm happy with mine overall. As long as you recognise that you have a contractor saw and don't expect it to do the job of a big fixed table saw you'll be happy.

    A few things:
    • I'm pretty sure bore size is actually 5/16" - I've been buying Freud blades with that size and they fit. 15.875mm (5/16") is pretty close to 16mm so I think it's either within machining tolerances or someone in marketing just rounded it??
    • You really need to use thin kerf blades with this machine - the riving knife is only suitable for > 2.2mm blades and the machine has the appropriate power to match this.
    • I have a 24T Freud ripping blade (red coating) and a 40T crosscut blade - all thin kerf. Both give a good finish when sharp but you do need a quick pass with a handplane or fine sandpaper.
    • When I make panels, I crosscut first to allow the back edge to tear out, then rip to final size to get rid of the tearout. If you're worried about chipping, you probably need to make a zero clearance insert or a sled if they are small parts. There are videos on how to do a zero clearance insert for this saw on youtube.
    • Resharpening your blades when they get dull does wonders - my local mob charge $15-$20 per blade. Less tearout, less digging in and marking of the cut face.


    I've put my saw on a cabinet with lift wheels (i.e. sits flat on ground except when wheels are engaged) and integrated a router lift next to it. If I had more space the router would be on its own table, but I mostly use it for roundovers and flush trimming against templates, so I'd rather keep the floor space! For outfeed I use a pair of roller stands from Timbecon if I need them. I'll share a photo later when I get a chance.
    Thanks - I'd love to see photos if you get the chance! Especially if you've somehow included a router into it!

    Per the message from aldav, I *think* it's 5/8ths as 5/16s would be ~8mm according to Google. Hope that's right, as I was thinking I'd try some.

    Do most folks use a cross cut sled or have a dedicated mitre saw? I bought one thinking I'd need one, perhaps I don't...Thanks for the tip on doing the cross cut first and then the rip - good tip.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    44
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    18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    15.875mm is 5/8" not 5/16". Just for the sake of clarity and to avoid confusion. An 80 tooth thin kerf fine finish blade will do an infinitely better job on cross cutting and plywood than a 40 tooth combination blade. D1080X | Saw Blades | Wood Cutting | Ultra Finish - Diablo Tools
    Thanks - for sure the 5/8ths would work with this saw even though it says 16mm? Also, is there a safety issue with a thin kerf blade vs. the factory riving knife or can I use it safely? I think from memory it seemed like the D1080X was okay but perhaps the D1090X was a little too thin?

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    2,589

    Default

    As to the arbor size see the second review on this page - DeWalt 254mm DWE7491-XE | ProductReview.com.au - it would seem that the saw has a 5/8" arbor. I can't understand why manufacturers 'metricise' important measurements like this in their literature, but there you go they do it, the knuckleheads.

    If you buy the Diablo D1080X you will be so amazed at the quality of the cut you will think all your Christmases have come at once. It's a thin kerf blade nominally 2.4mm (but it could be 3/32" ). The D1090X does have a marginally thinner kerf so you could be right about it being 'too thin', but you don't need it anyway.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    As to the arbor size see the second review on this page - DeWalt 254mm DWE7491-XE | ProductReview.com.au - it would seem that the saw has a 5/8" arbor. I can't understand why manufacturers 'metricise' important measurements like this in their literature, but there you go they do it, the knuckleheads.

    If you buy the Diablo D1080X you will be so amazed at the quality of the cut you will think all your Christmases have come at once. It's a thin kerf blade nominally 2.4mm (but it could be 3/32" ). The D1090X does have a marginally thinner kerf so you could be right about it being 'too thin', but you don't need it anyway.
    Awesome, thanks! I have higher hopes for Christmas - like maybe a thicknesser or a router and table!!! But I suppose the quality of my cuts is not a bad place to start...

    I hear you about the Imperial measurements - every time I watch a Youtube out of Canada or the US I sigh and think "wouldn't that be so much easier in mm?"

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Aus
    Posts
    80

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    15.875mm is 5/8" not 5/16".
    Whoops - imperial is not my native language! Funny thing, I actually calculated the value in mm, realised my mistake, doubled it to get 15.875mm, but then forgot to fix it here.

    Quote Originally Posted by calgarychris View Post
    Also, is there a safety issue with a thin kerf blade vs. the factory riving knife or can I use it safely? I think from memory it seemed like the D1080X was okay but perhaps the D1090X was a little too thin?
    The riving knife thickness is 2.2mm and the stock blade that came with my saw is a thin kerf blade. I'm pretty sure most blades (thin or normal) are thicker than this.
    Dewalt 2.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by calgarychris View Post
    Thanks - I'd love to see photos if you get the chance! Especially if you've somehow included a router into it!
    Do most folks use a cross cut sled or have a dedicated mitre saw? I bought one thinking I'd need one, perhaps I don't...Thanks for the tip on doing the cross cut first and then the rip - good tip.
    I have a cross cut sled that I use occasionally. Haven't made a rip sled - I usually rip thin pieces from larger stock so that the large piece is up against the fence, or I use my GRR-Ripper, or I just do it on the bandsaw with a push stick and plane to final size. However I think a rip sled would be much safer - the further your hands are from the blade, the better!

    Here's a photo of my setup. What you can't see is the dust collector boom arm with DN150 piping and bell mouth hood that I put over the top - it's currently a work in progress and not a setup that I can recommend yet! Also still to do is a quality router fence - I have a board with a gap that I clamp in place with bar clamps. Most of my work with the fixed router is just doing roundovers and flush trimming so a fence is not so important.

    Dewalt 1.jpg

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by calgarychris View Post
    perhaps the D1090X was a little too thin?
    Definitely too thin - D1090X has a 2.21mm kerf. Too close to riving knife of 2.2mm!

  13. #12
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    Aug 2020
    Location
    Sydney
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    I'm looking for a blade for my DeWalt DW713-XE Mitre Saw, with a better finish than the general purpose 40 tooth "construction saw blade". This also takes blades with a 5/8" arbour. The Diablo D1080X will suit my mitre saw.

    There are a few available through ebay (mostly from the US), non through Amazon. Does anyone know if these are available anywhere in Sydney?

  14. #13
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    Aug 2006
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    Ryde, NSW, Australia
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    I put a Diablo D1060XZ on mine. It's a 60 tooth blade. Great improvement over the original blade and it works fine with the riving knife.

    Cheers

  15. #14
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    Oct 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by PFH View Post
    Whoops - imperial is not my native language! Funny thing, I actually calculated the value in mm, realised my mistake, doubled it to get 15.875mm, but then forgot to fix it here.
    Haha, yeah, me neither - but as long as I know the 5/8th is correct, I can put the Amazon order in!

    Quote Originally Posted by PFH View Post
    The riving knife thickness is 2.2mm and the stock blade that came with my saw is a thin kerf blade. I'm pretty sure most blades (thin or normal) are thicker than this.
    Dewalt 2.jpg
    Now, if I understand correctly, I want the blade to me less than 2.2mm but the kerf (teeth) to be greater than that, is that correct?

    Quote Originally Posted by PFH View Post
    I have a cross cut sled that I use occasionally. Haven't made a rip sled - I usually rip thin pieces from larger stock so that the large piece is up against the fence, or I use my GRR-Ripper, or I just do it on the bandsaw with a push stick and plane to final size. However I think a rip sled would be much safer - the further your hands are from the blade, the better!
    I'll have to look up a rip sled - not seen that in my YouTube journeys thus far...I bought a GRR-Ripper though, the table saw scares the hell out of me tbh...


    Quote Originally Posted by PFH View Post
    Here's a photo of my setup. What you can't see is the dust collector boom arm with DN150 piping and bell mouth hood that I put over the top - it's currently a work in progress and not a setup that I can recommend yet! Also still to do is a quality router fence - I have a board with a gap that I clamp in place with bar clamps. Most of my work with the fixed router is just doing roundovers and flush trimming so a fence is not so important.

    Dewalt 1.jpg
    That looks great! Does that allow the table saw fence to double for the router table as well? I like the idea of making the space under the saw useful, as well as having better space around the table for an outfeed table....Thanks for the photo!

    My next challenge is dust collection though. My current setup is kicking out a ton of dust, absolutely everywhere and it will quickly get old. Off to that forum to post more dumb questions...

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by PFH View Post
    Definitely too thin - D1090X has a 2.21mm kerf. Too close to riving knife of 2.2mm!
    That's what I thought, but I don't really understand why. Is it too thin? Would there be much extra risk (or for that matter, improvement with the extra 10 teeth?)

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