Thread: Newbie - Table Saw vs Track Saw vs ?? advice please

Hi Walshy25. I have both (Taiwanese contractor style table saw and sheppach track saw) and both serve different purposes. The biggest factor for me is space. My work shop is tiny so I often break down sheet goods with the track saw and finish cutting with the table saw (more accurate for multiple cuts). For solid timber I use the table saw exclusively, rip cuts especially. Crosscuts on long lengths are easiest with a mitre saw but for shorter pieces a cross cut sled works well on a table saw. I started with a Triton but even a basic table saw is a vast improvement. I always think 2nd hand will get you a better quality table saw for the same price (mine was $400 with cast iron table 3hp motor and 10" blade) and continues to serve me well after 15 yrs of use. There are also plenty of jigs you can make to increase a table saws versatility. The only snag is having to wait until the right one comes along. I also have a Makita job site saw which is great because its portable but again no match for my table saw for accuracy, power and flexibility. Don't forget to think about accessories too - blades, hold downs, push sticks, etc. You can make lots of them but it all adds up.

I wouldn't go for the Fe$tool CS system unless you need the portability (I nearly went that way and glad I didn't). Very expensive as you add functionality.

Track saw is fantastic for breaking up sheet goods. You can be extremely accurate with the Fe$tool, but you either need to be very skilled, or spend a bit of time and money setting up - saw, tracks, TSO parallel guides, UJK parf guide system + dogs to make your own MFT top.

You'll need a lot of space to break sheets on a table saw (outfeed table/supports), but it's a bit easier to be accurate once you're working with smaller pieces - provided you have a decent saw and fence.

I started with a TS55, built a Paulk workbench, and bought the bits mentioned above (which puts you in good table saw territory quickly!). Then got a decent table saw when one turned up.

Other option is a 2nd hand slider if you have the space - couple of recent threads discussing these here, so should turn up in a quick search. Knowing what I do now, and the type of wood butchery I do, this would have been the best option for me if I did it all again.

I have a ts55, its great but couldn’t be my only saw, I use it together with my bandsaw (ripping and resawing) and mitre saw (cutting to length). I started out with just a contractors saw, I made a sled for it and could do pretty much anything, just not as comfortably as I now enjoy. I would recommend a second hand table saw with a cast iron top.

I think Tritons are rubbish.

What you have not mentioned is how much space you have, or how you plan to deal with saw dust.

For myself, a circular saw and guide rail and clamps is the cheap way to go - assuming you have a work bench or saw horses.
I bought a Festool TS55, some guide rails (2 x 1400 plus joiners), and clamps. Also bought a Midi dust extractor/vacuum cleaner.

Whilst all up this is probably twice your budget (half in the dust extractor) you can cut accurately and it takes up only a small footprint at the end of the day.

A quality tracksaw is much more versatile but if your typical projects involve cutting lists with multiples of the same dimension, a good table saw will be better.
Dont bother with any of the contractor saws they are not accurate enough for joinery works.

As has been mentioned the size of your working area will influence your purchase

If you are expecting to use a lot of sheet goods like plywood then a quality track saw will be very hard to beat, especially when partnered with a stand that can take a whole sheet. I will pull my panel stand out today and take some pics for you.

As I don’t have a proper shed I can use as a workshop portability is my keyword; I would love to have a dedicated 14” tablesaw with a slider but practicality means I stick with my pair of Tritons (and an old contractor saw for quick and dirty work). I can cut accurately to within 0.5mm with the Tritons but I generally finish to size by hand tools anyway so inaccuracies with the saw are irrelevant.

How do you guys rip with your track saws? I can’t think of any way that is not dangerous for holding the work piece.

I just have a sacrificial sheet on my work surface and set the saw so it just gets scored when cutting material.
If I am cutting a narrow piece I just lay an equivalent thickness sheet next to it for the track to lay on and away you go.
I find them a very safe saw to use, particularly the Festool as it has a riving knife which I think is a major advantage over the others

As promised here is my panel stand for cutting sheet goods. It was made from 4X2’s about 15 years ago and has basically lived outside it’s whole life, hence why it looks so daggy. I only expected it to last for about 5 years but it refuses to die!

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It is strong enough for two people to stand on as a work platform, plus when ripping sheets straight down the guts you can climb aboard and crawl along it following the saw. Take off the cross rails and the two stands stack on top of each other so it takes up very little real estate and can be left outside. If you coat it with cheap varnish or a decking finish it will probably last a lifetime.

When I make a replacement I’ll make it higher, currently it’s about 600mm high but I think I would have preferred 750mm in hindsight. I’m six foot tall and it is a PITA to be bending over it for more than a few cuts.

Originally Posted by Austin_Turner

How do you guys rip with your track saws? I can’t think of any way that is not dangerous for holding the work piece.

There are many safe ways to rip - both narrow & wide, including repeatable rips, which is what many people are looking for.

Here are a just few options for your viewing pleasure - both home made & commercial solutions:

Long & narrow repeatable rips:


I have these - they work really well:


Home made:

I have a Minimax C26 sliding table saw, but in all honesty, if I was starting again it would be a track saw & an MFT table. I built this torsion box workbench incorporating an MFT grid & absolutely love its versatility. Have a look at New Brit Workshop, Marius Hornberger & everything else Youtube has to offer. DO NOT RUSH...B47.jpg

Ditto on the Triton, but was amazed what my dearly departed Dad could conjure up on his Triton

Thanks for the ripping links, interesting.

i agree with repete, I made a table like that with the parf guide system, it is incredibly useful!

Looks very effective 👏 thanks