Thread: Qld Trade tools table saw

First I don't accept you need X power to use a 12" blade. It depends on the timber your cutting and the feed rate. If your concerned buy a narrow kerf blade.

The problem you have, if yours is a 10" only saw, is speed and clearance. Tip speed is the big reason you can't just shove a 12" blade into a 10" saw.

The arbour on mine is 16mm. Yes you can bush it, but you can also buy blades with the correct hole from various sources, including the USA. There is certainly a difference between the cheapie chinese blades and better quality ones but I wouldn't stress over one good brand and another, your well into the realmes of diminishing returnes with that.

I was refering to teh jet saw you mentioned earlier, although after looking again it's no better than the TTD saw you've bought, and no router and $25 more.

So let me get this straight. You've got a 1.5 hp 10" saw ? with a router extension and a pressed steel one ? Is that right ? and you've got to go back to pick up the router fence anyway ? I'd at the very least be wanting my money back on the blade.

Regarding blades, and I know I'll get my head bitten off here, I use a many tooth blade for everything. Yes you have to slow right down for deep rip cuts, but I get a surface off the blade that's ready for glue and that means a lot to me. I haven't used an intermediate blade so maybe I'm missing something there, but I hardly ever bother to fit a ripping blade. YMMV. Also I used to adjust height for the depth of cut, but after some reading I've been leaving the blade full height and find that works well. These are religeous wars and I'm not pushing my approach, I'm just offering a data point for you to consider.

Stuart did a saw blade test a while back, and confirmed something I've suspected for a while - spending more $ doesn't necessarily mean better results. Broadly better blades give nicer results than cheap ones, but there is a point where it becomes marginal at best. I wouldn't spend more than about $100 on a blade, ever a fine cut one. I reckon you can do well at that price point. Again YMMV.

Originally Posted by damian

I was refering to teh jet saw you mentioned earlier, although after looking again it's no better than the TTD saw you've bought, and no router and $25 more.

So let me get this straight. You've got a 1.5 hp 10" saw ? with a router extension and a pressed steel one ? Is that right ? and you've got to go back to pick up the router fence anyway ? I'd at the very least be wanting my money back on the blade.

Regarding blades, and I know I'll get my head bitten off here, I use a many tooth blade for everything. Yes you have to slow right down for deep rip cuts, but I get a surface off the blade that's ready for glue and that means a lot to me. I haven't used an intermediate blade so maybe I'm missing something there, but I hardly ever bother to fit a ripping blade. YMMV. Also I used to adjust height for the depth of cut, but after some reading I've been leaving the blade full height and find that works well. These are religeous wars and I'm not pushing my approach, I'm just offering a data point for you to consider.

Oh sorry, forgot the Jet one. Didn't really like the look of it anyway.

Yes I have a 10" 1.5hp saw. I do have to go back to get the fence and return/change to a different blade. I have the blade with me, as I work in Brissy during the week, but the saw itself is in parts at home in Maryvale, and is too big to carry with me when going to work, with all the gear I commute with. So to return it, would be a Saturday morning trip from Maryvale to Coopers Plains, then back again. Admittedly I could combine this with something else if I was coming to Brissy anyway, but Toowoomab is half an hour closer to us, and has most of the "normal" stuff we need. I'll be leaving work early Thursday avo to swing by CP on the way home to Maryvale for the weekend.

I'd love one saw for all jobs. I'm not a production shop, so speed isn't of the essence - I can take it slow no problem, and as I've said all along, it'll be mostly thin stuff I've cutting. That's why I went for the 60T saw, as it seemed to be more than the standard 40T, and I wasn't sure if 80T was too small. I even saw a 100T version i think. Maybe 80T is what I should look for, as finish off the saw is important to me too, and 1 blade I can use for rip & cut would be useful. I don't want to start a debate on it, but I think I agree with your point of view in my circumstances. Later if it proves wrong, I'm happy to change at that time.

Russell.

I've been sick.

FWIW I love high tooth counts but you can have 100 teeth on a badly made blade and you'll still get an awful finish. Conversely I've seen 60 tooth well made blades that result in a good finish. Apart from Stuart's very good review, which you should be able to find linked off this forum somewhere, it's hard to find anything that's independant and gives useful info, so it's a bit of suck it and see. The big issue with high tooth counts is if your doing a full depth cut, say 50 mm, you have to slow right down. If the work is thin or if your patient they are fine.

I see you've started a thread on it. Get ready for the religeous war

Question for Billy Bignuts,

In you post with the pic of your saw, why do you have the fence rails attached so far to the left?

The way it is set up in the pic you cannot use your sliding table.

Cheers, Jack