Thread: Recommend a Table Saw Rip Blade

What are you ripping and what finish are you chasing?

In my experience (construction) I don't recommend the frued/diablo blades, they are cheap rubbish, don't last, poor cut. Contractor throwaway brands like makita and bosch are way better. If you want real quality, find a local saw sharpener and buy their preferred brand, they will even grind to your spec's.

Firstly, the Freud blade you linked on Timbecons website is not in the same park as the Diablo blades. These blades are part of Freuds industrial range. They are on par with CMT's industrial range available at Carbatec.

I would steer clear of the thin kerf blades unless you know for certain your riving knife is suitable for thin kerf blades. Using a blade bushing has no affect on quality of cut or accuracy in my experience. Just make sure you get the right one. I find most high quality blades use the 30mm arbor so that they will fit a wide range of saws using bushes.

i'm using the torqcutta ones from timbecon with no issues on my saw stop
https://www.timbecon.com.au/torquata...lar-saw-blades

as samo mentioned you'll run into issues with the thin kerf blades and the riving knive, my bits of wood where actually jamming between the knife and the fence due to it not taking enough off with the cut.

24T ATB would be my pick. Stay away from thin kerf. Bushes make no difference as long as they fit properly.

I haven’t used all the German brands, just ATB, Leitz and Leuco. Either of those last two would be my pick. Otherwise get a Tenryu from Amazon-that’s a brand that comes highly recommended by the pickiest of the North American woodworkers that I know online. No personal experience though.

Leitz are overpriced IMO, Leuco, Dimar and AKE are good

I have heard good things about Dimar too. Whiteside, the American router bit company, now sells a line of saw blades made by Dimar. Their advertising suggests that they are aiming for the higher quality bracket.

Originally Posted by Nifty Nev

I have had Sawstop Contractor table saw for a short period of time (retired the Triton). I am looking for a recommendation of a reasonable quality rip saw blade noting that it has a 10" blade with 5/8" arbor.

It has been suggested to me that I need a 24 tooth with a flat grind, while I also have been told to have a serious look at 30 tooth with a TCG grind (glue line blade). Currently I am starting to make cutting/charcuterie boards and boxes. My research is indicating their is advantages for each blade.

So far I have these on Amazon
Amazon.com
Freud 10 In. 24 Tooth Thin Kerf Ripping Saw Blade with 5/8 In. Arbor (LU87R010) : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement.

Timbecon has a Freud glue line blade (30T) https://www.timbecon.com.au/freud-gl...-rip-saw-blade but with a ATB grind. Does this provide a better quality cut. They also have a thin kerf rip (24T) with a flat grind https://www.timbecon.com.au/freud-in...lar-saw-blades. Both have a 30mm bore. Will the use of a saw blade bush effect the quality of and the alignment of the cut.

Are there other saw blades I should consider?

Regards, Nifty.

Freud 10 In. 24 Tooth Heavy Duty Rip Blade with 5/8 In. Arbor and Silver Ice Coating (LM72M010) : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement

I have the 24 as linked and the 30T full kerf glue line ... for ripping stuff thicker than 1" that is likely if your doing end grain boards then the 24T is better, however the finish off the blade is not as good as the 30T glue line... in many ways i'd say you need both and don't be afraid to swap as needed.

Originally Posted by Pearo

If you want real quality, find a local saw sharpener and buy their preferred brand, they will even grind to your spec's.

This.

I got fed up reading reviews and going down internet rabbit holes trying to work out what blades to buy. I’ve got a fantastic sharpening service - shout out to Northern Sharpening Service in Reservoir - and they fixed me right up.

The brand they carry is Frezite, which are made in Portugal. Full kerf, lots of carbide on the teeth, and I reckon they’re good value (about $100 for the 24 tooth flat top bevel I bought for ripping, and the same for the 60 tooth ATB that I use for general purpose)

I really like these blades, but what I like best is being able get their advice, then select whatever size, grind, and tooth count i want, and know that they’ll do a great job when I bring it back in for sharpening, because it’s their preferred blade.

I've been very impressed with the finish from the Freud 10" 30 tooth Glue Line Rip Blade - mirror finish and glue-up ready most of the time (see Freud 10 In. 30 Tooth Glue Line Ripping Saw Blade with 5/8 In. Arbor (LM74R010) : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement). But I'm a bit biased on favour of the full kerf Freud blades - my standard blade is their Premier Fusion P410 combination blade, which is a high quality all-rounder and does a terrific job of ripping smaller (<2cm or so) stuff. Fine Woodworking reviewed combination blades back in March/April 2018 and ranked this blade one of three picked as Best Overall. But if you're ripping thick boards of Aussie hardwoods a dedicated full kerf 30T rip blade is a must.

Dimar
Freud
ATB
those ones rogerwilco likes are good too my mate uses them.

As others have said stay away from thin kerf rip blades - unless you are ripping scarce, high value, thin boards. Mostly thin kerf rip blades are available in smaller sizes for the battery operated saw market - less power required, longer battery life.

My experience with Freud Diablo has been good, however I'm ripping mostly rain forest species. The "glue line rip" blades do produce a superior face that is suitable for mid-range projects, however further processing is required imho if the boards are being used for jewelry boxes etc.

Some of the more expensive "name" brand blades have driven me nuts with "blade howl."