Thread: Reconnecting wires for switches

Would there by anything useful on the Grizzly website???
They have product manuals, just have to figure out name differences.
Good luck

I'll have a look but I've already got a copy of the original manual which is pretty good and includes some great exploded parts diagrams...just not the exact wiring setup (which is where the schematic image came from)

You seem to be missing a few wires....

On that circuit diagram, read green/yellow for the green wire, brown for black, and light blue for white. (You switch the active wire, which should be the brown one, but I'd check that the plug was connected the right way with a multimeter...see 240V powerplug datasheet to help work out which is which).

So you need a short wire that goes from the switch to the circuit breaker. And an extra earthing one as there is noooooo way you can get to both the earthing points shown with those two earth connections!!!!

That earthing point on the sheetmetal chassis looks a bit suspect, too - it should really be a bare metal connection (so sand a little bit of paint off). But the one on the saw body looks like it was the one used - and there's no way you could use it and get to the switch connections at the same time!!!

Also the schematic shows the white...errr light blue...wire connected to something like a neon bulb?????

You could do both browns on the switch, both blues on the circuit breaker, and both earths on the chassis connection, but that leaves that earthing point on the saw body unused - and I'd swear that that was the one used!! (Note that I'm not sure about locating the circuit breaker on the return (neutral) side, but that seems the only way to do it with those wires)

From reading the circiut diagram which obviously has the wrong colours (american) i can tell you the following is likely

power blue ------------------------------------------------ blue motor
cord brown --- switch ---- circiut breaker ----- brown

both earths should be connected together on the same post on the cabinet.

the blue from the motor connects straight to the blue from the power cable
the brown (active) goes through both the switch and circiut breaker.

This time round, call an electrician and live, save your freshly rewound motor from an untimely death should you get it wrong.
Next time round, mark where everything goes before you pull it apart, number wires against terminal points, draw a little sketch and take a photo.
Then when you put it back together, double check it all against what you have recorded.

A really good idea brisbane, shame I saw it too late

I checked the power cable with a meter and it looked like it was wired up properly, so I've just given it a test with both browns on the on/off switch, both blues on the circuit breaker and both earths on the chassis (filed back to metal) and it seems to work.

I left the saw's switch on and used the on/off switch on the wall point to control the power just incase the earthing was dodgy.

How does it sound if I bolt both the earths to the chassis and lead a wire from them to the motor mount? I figure that way, without covering up the ends while they float in space, the exposed ends of the earth will live in the internal switch cover box and I'll have an extra covered earth to the motor.

It wouldn't surprise me to find that there are wires and other bits missing as it's a poorly treated old and second hand saw from someone who isn't a woody.

Thanks for the help chaps. Much appreciated.

Not sure if I have misunderstood your explenation but I wouldn't leave any bare wires floating, always insulate or fix them, it's amazing where they will end up sometimes.

Claw: Yep. That's the point of putting the grounds against the chassis under the switch cover box. It's not pictured but there's a plastic box that goes over the switches on the inside of the chassis. So if I string a coated wire from the two grounds inside the box out to the ground screw on motor mount I won't have any naked and exposed wire (except for the clamped bit on the motor mount).

As an aside, it's a damn noisy thing. My neighbours are going to love this one



Oh and thanks to the Mod who put the warning in the original post. I guess I always consider that kind of thing quietly to myself so it's good to have it up there for others. I've zapped myself on stock fences and seen enough exploded fingers and people thrown against walls from still charged capacitors to know that electricity is not something you ever want to work with lightly

"How does it sound if I bolt both the earths to the chassis and lead a wire from them to the motor mount? I figure that way, without covering up the ends while they float in space, the exposed ends of the earth will live in the internal switch cover box and I'll have an extra covered earth to the motor."

Ideal.

(I'd still like to run a wire between the switch and circuit breaker and re-terminate the neutral lead to connect into the neutral from the motor so that everything is switched on active...otherwise the saw motor is still live if the circuit breaker trips...)

Glad you agree because that's what I've already done

The old man is going to take a look at the wiring tomorrow, and just to be super sure I'm going to take it to a qualified mate to give it a quick look over.

We're both sure that you're right about there being a missing connection between the circuit breaker and switch and as you say, in it's current configuration the breaker isn't doing a thing.

While I've been reassembling the saw today after some reconditioning (big post coming up about that when it's done) I've noticed a few things missing and seemingly unnecessary/undocumented holes that have washer wear around them, so it wouldn't surprise me if the previous owner(s) had been fiddling around with it and wired it up "hot" like this not realising it wasn't particularly safe...or just not caring.

Hopefully I'll have it sorted out in the next couple of days and be able to report back then with the final result.

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

Also the schematic shows the white...errr light blue...wire connected to something like a neon bulb?????

The 'something like an a neon bulb' in the diagram is an American way to represent a wire junction with one of their twist on tapered insulator wire cap thingys (cable nut?) for insulation.

The basic wiring diag is correct with the colour code substitutions suggested above, but requires a link between the switch and the circuit breaker which does not appear in the pic. Not a big fan of having either the switch or the breaker on the neutral side of the circuit, both must be on the active (power) side for safety.

I took my photo and a "color corrected" drawing of the schematic into a local shop this morning and spoke to one of their repair guys who was very helpful in telling me how to hook everything up and showed me where our missing wire is to go.

The attachment is the result of our chat, which matches the schematic nicely, so I could have followed that but it's better to be safe than sorry when there was that phantom connection between the switch and breaker.

He also gave me a tip on how to check the earthing: Connect a multimeter from the earth point of the plug to the chassis. If I get a reading of less than 1ohm it's suitably grounded and I won't explode in a shower of sparks when I use the saw.

I haven't hooked it up yet but thought I'd lob the solution out there for y'all while it's still fresh in my mind.

Thanks for the help everyone. You were pretty much dead on.

GET IN A BLOODY PROFESSIONAL EVERYONE HERE IS SPECULATING AND THAT JUST DAM STUPID. IMAO !

KIWI

...which is exactly what I'd done and last posted about...