Thread: Removal of rust on saw blades by electrolysis

Jill

I haven't used it on TCT tools, but I use electrolysis to remove rust from old tools that I am restoring and have never had any adverse reaction - the only thing is to ensure that the area is well ventilated! Here's another article from the Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia

Thanks Jeremy, I will give it a go
regards,
Jill

Jill,
I dont see the need to be that drastic. Just soak it with wd40 for a bit then cut some old wood with it. That should clean most of of it. I have a feeling the electrolysis may loosen the tct teeth.
Regards
John

if it was me i'd take the blade out of the saw lay it on the bench and clean it with a strip of emery tape wrapped around a small block of wood,i don't use any fluids until the rust is gone, should only take about 10 to 15 minutes.

Hi all, thanks for your helpful replies. I had already set it up to run overnight before I got the last couple of replies. Just a bucket of water, baking soda and with a steel anode. Remember it was heavily rusted. After washing it well under a tap with a scourer, then hitting it gently with a wire brush, all the rust is gone. There is still some pitting where the rust was built up, but that is to be expected. I then put some wax on the blade surfaces, and it is now stored ready for use.

One big mistake, the wire brush chipped the edge of one of the TC teeth

regards,

Jill

I also wouldn't use electrolysis.

I cleaned up old circular blade by putting the blade in the saw and wrapping 1" strips of old 40 grit belt sander belt around a 300 mm long stick. Fire up the saw and carefully run the end of the stick covered by belt along the side of the blade. Being careful to stay away from the teeth. Then I switched to 120 grit It took about 30 seconds clean the blade up this way. The rest I did by hand.

Sorry BobL, but that method scares the hell out of me

Jill

Originally Posted by JillB

Sorry BobL, but that method scares the hell out of me

Jill

If it scares you then obviously don't do it.

If you stop and think about it, it's similar to using a disk sander but in reverse. You could even clamp the piece of wood with the belt sander on the end of it to a mitre slide and take it nice a slowly back and forth. If you think you are going to hit the teeth then also don't do it but what's the worst that could happen, the teeth will cut through the paper and take a few microns of the teeth, big deal, it's not like it's a new blade.

It might sound like I am a cowboy with my TS but I have the greatest respect for it. I reckon it's the most dangerous ww tool I own, far more dangerous than my big chain saws.

Sounds like it's too late cause you've already done it but I'd be junking that blade now, I used to manufacturer concrete cutting blades which is basically the same as a wood cutting blade just a different profile.

The short story is electrolysis does have an effect on the solder holding the tips on, plus the carbide in the tips which might explain the chip in the edge of the tooth that has chipped from a WIRE brush

I can tell you now that all new blades which were manufactured whilst I was there, they were ground to clean them up after all the tips were soldered on, rather than chemically cleaning them as it was the only process that was guaranteed not to affect the solder.

Ouch!!! thanks DJ, I won't be doing that again

Strange though, because all the reading I did indicated that only the rusted part of the ferrous metals were affected by electrolysis ie., the chemical process only targeted rust, and any paint on unrusted portions of steel was not touched, but if there was rust underneath, then it would definitely be altered chemically.

But I did wonder about the chipped tooth.

I bow to your manufacturing experience. Many thanks for posting this warning

regards,
Jill