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  1. #1
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    Default Replacement Table saw fence

    A question for the more knowledgeable:

    Is there an aftermarket Biesemeyer style fence that does not require the rear support rail?

    My 21 year old sliding table saw has a rip fence leaves a lot to be desired. I can deflect the unsupported end 30mm without much effort, not good by any stretch. With the support I can get it set square to the blade but every time it gets moved it requires straight edges, steel rules etc and about 15 minutes to get it set again. Setting an exact measurement is even more time consuming.

    The fence is mounted on the out feed table of the jointer, meaning the only point to attach the rear rail is about 1500mm away on the end of the in-feed table. Nothing I have seen has a fence that long. The new fence would also double as the jointer fence.

    I figure I am going to have to drill mounting holes, I am ok with that.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  3. #2
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    Nov 2004
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    Default

    I think you will end up making your own. There is nothing I am aware of on the market that is going to solve that problem.

    Tablesaw fences are hardly the most complicated of devices. You may even be able to swap that aluminium L-section with a steel substitute that will get you the result you are after.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Thanks Mark

    I have been toying with the idea of making one, when the fabrication skills have improved. Or modifying an off the shelf fence. The other idea was to chase up the original manufacturer of the table and see what they have. Could expensive fast.

    Jase

  5. #4
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    Nov 2004
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    Redlands area, Brisbane
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    Default

    Another thought I had would be to stiffen up the fence with added material. Drill holes and tap them with metal threads then epoxy and screws with additional aluminium box section or even wood. There is enough material there to work with based on your photo.

  6. #5
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    Default

    what about a big switchable magnetic base mounted on the outer end that just locks onto the jointer table when you're set?

  7. #6
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    In my experience with this type of fence, they are poor at setting square. I suspect that this is because they share connective strength between the front and rear connectors, and the front has less holding power that the Biesemeyer-type, which rely on a beefed up front end. the Biesemeyer on my previous table saw had a much wider lock.

    If this is so, then you might be able to modify your existing fence by beefing up the front end, that is, creating a wider locking mechanism.

    I looked around Carbatec and Timbecon for replacement fences, but it appears that they no longer sell them.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #7
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    Nov 2016
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    Bris
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jasethebeginner View Post

    Is there an aftermarket Biesemeyer style fence that does not require the rear support rail?

    Most Biesemeyer type fences don't really require to be supported on the rear support rail. My SawStop PCS just has a UHMW pad on the underside that helps it glide on the table surface. My Laguna Fusion does have a foot that rides on the rear rail but I can't see any reason why it can't be replace with a similar pad. Also, I believe Gregory Machinery sell aftermarket Biesemeyer style fences although it's not listed on their website. You may have to give them a call and you may want to be sitting down when you do.....

  9. #8
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    Nov 2019
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    The decision has been taken to make a fence. Sadly a Biesemeyer fence would foul the sliding table when trying to get close to the blade, limiting minimum cut size. I laminated two 17mm pieces of ply and carved in so the flat faces on the top of the fence mount are in good contact with the ply. Two 6mm holes were added to the mount and the current fence locking screw was replaced with some M8 all thread. When it was all nipped up the deflection when pushed against had reduced from 30-35mm down to 3-4mm but when the fence is moved it consistently locks into the same relative position. Something it didn't do previously. The fence mounting rail flexes but can live with that, I will probably keep using the current method of adding the support rail at the far end of the fence.

    I still need to reduce the bottom of the fence to get it sit flat on the table, set it to square, make side plates, internal braces and a top plate. Once what I have so far is set to square I will be able to proceed fairly quickly.
    mount.jpggap.jpgtop.jpg

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