Thread: Ripping blade for 10" saw

The hook angle determines how self feeding the blade is.

A higher angle means more self feeding. This eases the work needed to push the wood through the saw
BUT
May also increases the risk of pulling your hand into the blade

Higher hook angles are fine on softwoods but will also go blunter faster on our harder woods as it creates a thinner tooth tip.

It is important to match the blade geometry to the saw & task. Unfortunately good dedicated rip blades are becoming scarcer. The many combination blades available for 10" saws aren't that great at ripping and generally require further surface preparation before glue ups.

I've used Freud's "glue line rip" blades and the Dewalt Extreme saw blades on my Woodfast TS 250 with good results. DeWalt don't make a 254 mm (10") blade so I have been using their 210 & 216 mm blades. For their price point they are exceptional value and produce the goods. Only down side with them is their thin kerf which can wander in rip cuts and matching a riving knife to the thin kerf blade. I have been disappointed with my CMT blades and choose the DeWalts over them almost always now. DeWalts high tooth count Extreme blades tax the saws power in rip cut operations.

I have a couple of Austsaw blades that I haven't used enough to form a fair opinion of their performance yet.

ps - Are you seeking a 10" rip blade for a mitre saw????

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

p.s. I don't know exactly how one rips on a mitre saw.

Do not use a blade with a 22 degree hook angle on a miter saw for any cuts! They are way to aggressive and will self feed to the point that the blade will "climb up" over the stock potentially damaging the saw or you.

In the past (1970's & 1980's) I very regularly used a large Dewalt radial arm docking saw for both ripping and cross cuts. Back then we did not have the range or the saw blade technology that is available today as carbide tipped saw blades were prohibitively expensive and rather prone to losing the odd tip or three. One had to be extremely aware of what blade was on the saw because a "rip blade" used for a cross cut would literally climb over the work piece and either stall out the saws motor & / or smash the ply table surface in some instances.

This one from Timbecon is pretty economical https://www.timbecon.com.au/torquata...lar-saw-blades and has a 30mm bore. I've got it and it does a good job but for fine work, I would do something to the cut surface before gluing/joinery - light sanding or a few passes with a smoother, not much. It does leaves a better surface than a 40 tooth 'general purpose' blade. It's not seen the kind of punishment commercial work would give it, but it has seen several hundred metres of hardwoods and I haven't sharpened it yet.

If I were buying again, I'd likely go for the Freud https://www.timbecon.com.au/industri...lar-saw-blades

I also wonder why Dewalt/Milwaukee are putting out what seem to be ripping blades for their mitre saws. Dewalt makes table saws too... that would make a lot more sense.

Originally Posted by Alkahestic

This one from Timbecon is pretty economical https://www.timbecon.com.au/torquata...lar-saw-blades and has a 30mm bore. I've got it and it does a good job but for fine work, I would do something to the cut surface before gluing/joinery - light sanding or a few passes with a smoother, not much. It does leaves a better surface than a 40 tooth 'general purpose' blade. It's not seen the kind of punishment commercial work would give it, but it has seen several hundred metres of hardwoods and I haven't sharpened it yet.

If I were buying again, I'd likely go for the Freud https://www.timbecon.com.au/industri...lar-saw-blades

I also wonder why Dewalt/Milwaukee are putting out what seem to be ripping blades for their mitre saws. Dewalt makes table saws too... that would make a lot more sense.

I have also noted that anomaly! Their target market is predominantly the commercial "pine framing" sector & cordless tools where aggressive fast cuts save battery power, I guess. More cuts per charge??

MT - I've had the reply box open for awhile so missed your post! But yea, I can't imagine running a rip blade on a mitre saw, sounds like a recipe for disaster. I'd test it if I could remotely operate the saw from another room.

Edit: Well here is a promo video of DeWalt construction blades DEWALT Construction Blades - YouTube, so you're on the money MT. I was thinking the tooth faces were perpendicular to the workpiece like with the Torquata blade I linked, but it looks like these have a slight angle.

The Milwaukee doesn't make any mention of using it in a mitre saw specifically. Can't see the exact tooth geometry either Milwaukee 254mm (10") Ripping 24T Circular Saw Blade 48408020 | Milwaukee Tool Australia

Edit Edit: The Dewalt is an ATB+Raker - it'd be ok for cutting joinery wouldn't it - it shouldn't leave the bat ears.

Just curious as to why you are focusing on a cheap blade for a panel saw? Genuine question by the way. And while I am being perplexed, have you considered matching the new blade to your riving knife thickness?

Originally Posted by Alkahestic

Edit Edit: The Dewalt is an ATB+Raker - it'd be ok for cutting joinery wouldn't it - it shouldn't leave the bat ears.

Not quite - the flat top raker tooth seems to be set lower than the ATB teeth from the saw kerf. HDIKT - I tried them for splines on box mitres, they still leave the "bat ears" just not as bad as a the typical ATB blades. I have no means of actually measuring the difference / offset if there is actually one.

Originally Posted by Greg Q

Just curious as to why you are focusing on a cheap blade for a panel saw? Genuine question by the way. And while I am being perplexed, have you considered matching the new blade to your riving knife thickness?

Ordinarily I would agree about purchasing a high quality blade, but I think some manufacturers have dropped the ball some what and are resting on their reputation.

I run the Dewalt's for two, well three, four, .... reasons -

1. produce far better cut quality - surprisingly!
2. heaps quieter than my CMT's - which howl when not loaded in a cut - a jet turbine like howl.
3. about 1/3 the price of a CMT
4. readily available locally

I had a talk with the Combined Saw & Knife people at Maleny in 2019 about the CMT's howl. They say that on some machine / saw blade setups that the expansion slots can be problematic with howl and the advice they offered was to fill the laser cut expansion slots with "silicone."

I cut a lot of small components for inlay banding construction, so the saw runs lightly loaded for 10 minutes or more continuously, so noise levels are a very high priority for me, only second to cut quality. I want a high quality off the blade finish in both cross cut and rip mode.

Originally Posted by Greg Q

Just curious as to why you are focusing on a cheap blade for a panel saw? Genuine question by the way. And while I am being perplexed, have you considered matching the new blade to your riving knife thickness?

Reasonable questions Greg. My sliding table panel saw is about the cheapest DIY range one on the market (Leda mj-2325f, but I see it is now no longer listed on their website). My first resaw effort using the included budget 40 tooth blade caused the motor thermal cutout to kick in after a couple of cuts.

The supplied riving knife and blade guard are for standard thickness blades and cannot be used for non through cuts (knife higher than blade). I currently need to resaw boards wider than the saws depth of cut. Rather than bastardizing the original riving knife I fashioned a lower riving knife to swap in when making non through cuts from the plate of an old blade that is 1.9mm thick. The Dewalt's blade kerf is 2.16 and plate 1.6, so I think all will be good using it with either of these thin kerf blade.

I'm very much just an infrequent hobby user. In fact I had no intention of buying another table saw after downsize to a new home last year, even when my old saw motor burnt out, ... until the last lock down. I was just going to use the one at the Men's shed. However I now have a new saw and a project that is not suitable to do at the shed that requires resawing some 50x 250 planks to get down to 20mm boards. I can't imagine this blade will ever be cutting more than say around 100m in total. I guess I could manage this amount of resawing quite adequately with a good combination blade but for $44 I'm happy to throw a budget 24 tooth blade on and give it a try.

Any blade that has multiple tooth profiles, be it ATB or TCG, that include a flat top raker never leaves a flat bottom cut. If you stop and think about it there would be no point in such an arrangement.

Good answer. I threw almost all of my woodworking tools overboard about ten years ago only to start a house build project about five years ago. I recently bought an older Felder combo to get me through finishing the project. I do understand the impulse to buy tooling sufficient to get through the anticipated projects.

My problem is that projects multiply, and now I am apparently the family and neighbourhood custom milling service. For a guy who is a reluctant woodworker my tooling bills seem awful high. Anyway, good luck with your projects. And the saw. As it says somewhere, “man does not live by tracksaw alone”

Oh, by the way: since we are neighbours, if your resaw needs exceed your Leda’s envelope come over and use my 24” bandsaw.