Thread: After much searching and lurking... Another table saw choice question...

I am not sure what the MJ is like, but when i bought my 10HB i was comparing it with a cheaper Hafco model (similar to the MJ), and the 10HB had a much more solid tunion, and triple drive belts. The fence was also far superior. Something to consider.
Yes it is a pain to have to remove the splitter when doing non through cuts, but it really isn't often i do them, and it takes 2 mins to take out. I have the right size spanner for it hanging off my saw to its always ready to go. All in all i am very happy with my 10HB. Just wish i had more time to use it!

G'day Inferno, not sure if this will work for the 10HB as I'm not sure how yours is attached but it did work on my MJ2325B - I elongated the slots in my riving knife and this allowed the knife to slide down until it is approx 5mm below the highest saw tooth - now it never needs to be removed and can still do its job on non full cuts.

Just a thought.

I have the MJ2325 which I bought about 4 years ago. I have had no trouble with it and is accurate machine. The only criticism I have is the fence is not as precise as I would like it to be. It moves slightly when you lock it down and you need to be aware of this to make necessary adjustments so it stays square to the blade, I find locking the fence while pulling the handle back towards me seems go overcome this problem.
Just to make sure, if I want crucial precision in the cut I square the fence up with a builders tri-square which does the job nicely.
Overall, I have found the saw to be powerful enough for everything I have asked of it and am happy with it.
It is one of the cheaper saws of course so I guess it is a bit unfair to compare it with some of the more expensive models.

Originally Posted by Bob38S

G'day Inferno, not sure if this will work for the 10HB as I'm not sure how yours is attached but it did work on my MJ2325B - I elongated the slots in my riving knife and this allowed the knife to slide down until it is approx 5mm below the highest saw tooth - now it never needs to be removed and can still do its job on non full cuts.

Just a thought.

So I assume that your splitter doesn't have kickback pawls then? Or that they are removable?

BTW... in looking into this further, I found out that the saw I have is a 10HB contractor.

No pawls just the riving knife.

Anyone want one of these...[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EttU6iHU1Qo&feature=player_embedded]DustCutter - YouTube[/ame]

It did not cost me anything as I was investigating selling them in Oz so I will give it away, you pay the postage. First in best dressed as I only have one.

PM Sent

Sold to Nosnow in 16 minutes.

Hi Cam.
I bought a MJ2325 a while back and honestly, save your money until you can afford a proper saw. It is a load of crap.
The fence is rubbish, the blade wobbled continuously, even after adjusting the trunnions. I had to turn the blade with a stick to get it going every time I turned it on and it was gutless.
I don't know anything about the other saws you are looking at, but steer clear of the MJ2325

Last year I went to CT, Hafeco, Gregory M etc. I opened and shut everything, spun every wheel, flicked all switches levers, pulled off anything I could, even asked for some to be started (not very helpful in most places). The saw is such a central tool in the workshop that getting the best you can afford is a must. The old saying is absolutely true...The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten. In the end it seemed you really do just get what you pay for.

There was a few important features on my list. A rise and fall riving knife, a quality guard design, good dust extraction design and lots of metal so it would get "sloppy" over time. There where two saws head and shoulders above the others the PM2000 and the Sawstop. Both very similar levels of build quality, accuracy, robustness, and this is a tool you can consider will be there for decades if you buy one built to last. The price tags are a bit scary so I went away and started a saving plan, I only ever plan to buy one cabinet saw, so it better be a good one.

Originally Posted by gingerbeer86

. . . . There was a few important features on my list. A rise and fall riving knife, a quality guard design, good dust extraction design and lots of metal so it would get "sloppy" over time.

Any saw that uses 4" dust ports simply does not have "good dust extraction design". If one is paying $1000 for a TS one might well expect it to come with a 4" dust port but if one is paying more than $2000 then what would it take for these saw manufacturers to provide a 6" dust port and include a 6-4" reducer for those that only have 4" ducting?

I decided to stick with the saw I have for now. Still no rise and fall riving knife and so sacrificial cross cut fences are pretty much off the table, but I am making it a bit of a Frankensaw.

I will post piccies once it is all done.

Cheers

Cam