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Thread: Fixing up a Delta TS
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16th April 2009, 01:12 PM #1
Fixing up a Delta TS
Thanks to a super generous friend of my folks I've been given a working 10" Delta table saw for nix. It looks like it's in pretty good nick but I'd like to give it a decent once over to make sure it's safe, clean and working properly before I start using it too much.
What do y'all think I should be paying particular attention to?
So far all I've got on my list is:
- Remove rust from the top and cleaning the mitre slots: How can I do this without mucking up the flat level too much? I'm guessing some sort of rust removal spray and a bit of rubbing, but with what? I'm only used to attacking things wildly with the angle grinder and wire brush wheels so something delicate is a tad out of my experience. Also, is there some kind of finish I should put on it to stop it coming back that won't taint my stock?
- Fix up the plug which is exposing the (still sheathed) wires a smidge.
- Replace the metal plate around the blade, which while still ok has more room around the blade than I'd like, and I want to do 45deg cuts as well without having to fiddle too much.
- Give the motor a bit of a spray with the air compressor just to clean it out of loose dust.
- Replacing the haggard old blade.
- Ditch or maybe replace the blade cover.
The height/angle wheels are moving pretty well but I can only tighten/lock them enough to require a bit of two handed force to turn them. Not being accustomed to having an apparently decent saw, is that normal? Is it worth greasing/RP7 the threaded rods a little for smoother movement or does it cause some nasty dust collection?
I haven't checked the fence and lock yet. Anything I should be careful of there to not put it out of whack?
I can't wait to get this puppy going so I can relegate my spawn of Satan Ryobi to other things...actually I'd like one setup for ripping and the other for crosscutting but I can't decide which would be better. Obviously the Delta has superior general construction and a better motor, but also has a much better fence and mitre slots. I may just have to suck it up and resign myself to changing blades from time to time.
Thanks in advance for any tips.
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16th April 2009 01:12 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th April 2009, 06:28 PM #2
Try this for general tuning TABLESAW TUNE
As for cleaning up the table a rub with 220 paper to get off the loose rust then wd40 and a pot scourer to get her clean. Takes a bit of effort but that is character building. Do not attack it with any power tool or rough abrasive. A good job is better than a quick one.
To keep it clean later you can use a wax polish or a wipe with 3 in 1 oil from time to time.
There are various other things that work but avoid anything with silicone as wood finishes do not like it.
Regards
John
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1st May 2009, 07:32 PM #3
Do not uses grease as it will just clog up with dust as dust will stick to it. CRC Dry glide is good just dont use it on surface exposed to wood your using.
"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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1st May 2009, 07:52 PM #4New Member
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I have the same saw, however I belive mine to have a 110 Volt motor (US type plug & voltage rating on spec plate) I scored it from the tip shop with a broken motor mount, I didnt see the plug ( and stupidly assumed it was 240V) until I had it home question is, is there a 240v motor available ? I have the motor out and apart, and there is only one winding on the stator, so it doesn't seem to be multi voltage. I've yet to reassemble it and fire it on 240v to see if it takes the breaker out. I'd say it has jammed and broke the motor mount also stripping the drive belt (internal). The Blade had some tips missing. Would have been interesting to see Seems a strange thing to find a U.S. bench saw in Tassie ?.
Cheers.
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6th May 2009, 09:58 PM #5
Thanks guys for the tips.
I was able to hunt down the manual at http://powertool.manualsonline.com/ which has a lot of info on setting it up which has helped.
Also found a thread here about removing the rust: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=72039
Someone somewhere also suggested using graphite on the height/angle rods although I think I like the CRC idea more for ease of application.
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