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Thread: Setting up a new table saw
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4th May 2009, 06:36 PM #1
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Setting up a new table saw
My new table saw arrives tomorrow -10" Carbatec cabinet saw MJ2325B. It has a large table surface 1200W x 800 D, and the fence is fixed at one end only
If using a dial indicator on a jig sliding along the LH mitre slot, what sort of tolerance (in mm) should there be in parallellism for:
a) the blade and the slot, measured against the same tooth rotated around and
b) the fence and the slot over the full lenght of the fence.
I would welcome all suggestions and ideas.
regards,
Jill
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4th May 2009 06:36 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th May 2009, 09:39 AM #2
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Anyone, please?
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6th May 2009, 07:58 PM #3
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Hi Jill,
(a) 1/4 - 1/3mm max, I don't have a mitre slot but work off the fence. I use about 10 thou as my setup.
(b) about 1mm or so max.
Is the fence reliable on the saw? ie: if you move it, does it stay parallel and at a repeatable angle, or does it wander.
As well, check that you understand the difference between the short fence and long fence. Short fences are used for ripping, long fences for working panel goods. Google will give you a wide range of answers here.
Look for something by a guy who goes by the moniker of Sgian Dubh. It summarises trade training well.
CHeers,
eddie
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6th May 2009, 08:22 PM #4
I try for 0.002" toe out on the rip fence. That is, the fence should be angled away from the blade by that amount as compared to the leading and trailing teeth of the blade. This helps prevent binding of material between the fence and the blade.
The mitre slot should have a similar relationship to the blade the other way.
Greg
on edit, seeing as you asked for metric, 0.002" = 0.05mm for our purposes.Last edited by Greg Q; 6th May 2009 at 08:24 PM. Reason: metric correction
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