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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Sydney- Hawkesbury area
    Posts
    116

    Default New Shark Guard Blade Protection

    In the past I have read mention of the Shark Guard on the forum, all good comments.
    I only had the standard blade guard as supplied by Robland for my combination machine, which is very poor in the areas of extraction and visibility.
    So I did the investigation of the Shark Guard from the States. Lee Styron was great to deal with and makes a first class product. You have to wait a while but it is well worth it.
    Fitted on the weekend aand the extraction of waste is 1000% better and you can see the blade in action which is extremely important.

    It cost all up with the new splitter designed to fit the Robland NLX310,
    the Shark Guard cover, fittings and postage A$200 delivered.

    You can have a look at Lee's site at:
    http://www.leestyron.com/default.php

    Here are some photos as fitted to my combination machine.

    PEN

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Stockton
    Posts
    291

    Default

    Pen

    i know it has been a decade since you posted this, do you still have your sharkguard and would you still recommend them? I'm in the process of restoring an old Hyco tablesaw (1950's) , which as a splitter mounted to it and incorporates the blade guard. The sharkguard appears solve all the issues associated with a typical splitter that's not adjustable and solves dust collection issues etc.

    Definitely keen to hear your feedback.

    Cheers
    Stew

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    Sorry Stew, PEN hasn't been on for over two years
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    997

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bunya pine View Post
    Pen

    i know it has been a decade since you posted this, do you still have your sharkguard and would you still recommend them? I'm in the process of restoring an old Hyco tablesaw (1950's) , which as a splitter mounted to it and incorporates the blade guard. The sharkguard appears solve all the issues associated with a typical splitter that's not adjustable and solves dust collection issues etc.

    Definitely keen to hear your feedback.

    Cheers
    Stew

    I had a Sharkguard onmy previous saw, I didn’t keep the Sharkguard and sold it with the saw, thereason I didn’t keep it is because my new saw has a much larger guard and it isoverhead.


    I would definitelyrecommend Sharkguard by Lee Valley. The dust collection was immediate improvement.You also need a reasonable dust extractor though.
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Rosslyn Park, Adelaide
    Posts
    182

    Default

    I too like the Sharkguard, although consider it a very expensive luxury, that not everyone could justify.

    It definitely improves dust collection and is good quality.

    I am not sure that it can "solve all the issues associated with a typical splitter that's not adjustable".
    If your current saw only has a Splitter, then the Sharkguard will also be the same as far as I can see. The new Splitter or Riving Knife that comes with it, is just to hold the guard so not sure how you gain any adjustment ability.

    I should qualify that mine has a Riving Knife so I am not aware if a Splitter model is any different.

    Regards

    Bauldy

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    In between houses
    Posts
    1,784

    Default

    I clicked on that link and it opened six windows and took me to an article about how Dick Smith has made millions from bitcoin and invested it in Russian dating and wife sites? ����♂️

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Stockton
    Posts
    291

    Default

    Thanks for the feed back on the sharkguard, i think i will develop my own. Based on the clip below i think i should be able to develop something similar to to this.

    YouTube

    On my hyco I have a splitter that incorporates a blade guard, it actually moves with the blade as you tilt the arbor, however does not raise and lower with the blade. Where you mount the splitter there is room to make a mounting block and for a blade to move up and down like whats pictured in the clip.

    I have attached a couple of photos of my table saw. My original splitter was bent so i had one reproduced in stainless. Since mounting it i can now see some of the limitations, i can only do through cuts, i can't use thin kerf blades and when the blade is being used to make shallow cuts i have a 40-50mm gap between the back of the blade and leading edge of the splitter. With the ability of having vertical adjustment on the splitter, I will be able to keep the gap between the splitter and blade to minimums.

    Whats peoples opinion on anti kickback pawls? I've looked at the sharkguard reviews and every single one has them tucked out of the way. Does anyone actually use them? i would rather a damaged work piece them a piece of wood hitting me! Do you think having a splitter/riving knife installed will supersede the need for the pawls?

    I look forward to your opinions and ideas.

    Whilst we are on the topic, have a look at what this young bloke did to incorporate a riving knife that raises and lowers with the saw blade. I wont be doing this for now but may have a go in the future. I actually want to use my table saw so am trying to come up with a solution in a reasonable amount of time.


    YouTube

    Cheers
    Stew
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Rosslyn Park, Adelaide
    Posts
    182

    Default

    While in theory the Anti Kickback Pawls should improve safety, I suspect if you have a suitablesplitter/riving knife they do not add much value.

    When I ordered the SharkGuard, I was planning on ordering the pawls as well, just in case, as it would be expensive to ship them separately later if I decided I needed them. Lee actually suggested that there was no need so I never did sending the following "The pawls, in my humble opinion, are purely redundant. Most folks buy them for compliance to our government big brother OSHA. If you have the right thickness knife, which needs to be just thinner than the kerf of your blade, that will prevent rear blade kickbacks, and the guard helps as well and keeps your fingers out of the way of the blade"

    Regards

    Bauldy

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Towradgi
    Posts
    4,835

    Default

    The website.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Stockton
    Posts
    291

    Default

    Bauldy

    I have been doing some more reading and searching for standards surrounding table saw usage. I found a summary from the English safety standards.

    https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf

    The English do not use pawls which supports your opinion. I will make some using an old saw blade and suspect that i will eventually stop using them in time?
    I'm now confident i can make an adjustable splitter/riving knife that will allow me to minimise the gap between the back of the blade and front of the riving knife.

    An interesting side note, the English standard in the attached link states "To prevent kickback, the front of the fencemust be set no further than the base of the saw bladegullet at table level." I looked at a couple of English sources to make sure my interpretation was correct and I believe they mean that the fence should not extend past the centre of the blade (bore). Does anyone think this a good safety measure and do they actually implement it?

    Cheers
    Stew


    Quote Originally Posted by Bauldy View Post
    While in theory the Anti Kickback Pawls should improve safety, I suspect if you have a suitablesplitter/riving knife they do not add much value.

    When I ordered the SharkGuard, I was planning on ordering the pawls as well, just in case, as it would be expensive to ship them separately later if I decided I needed them. Lee actually suggested that there was no need so I never did sending the following "The pawls, in my humble opinion, are purely redundant. Most folks buy them for compliance to our government big brother OSHA. If you have the right thickness knife, which needs to be just thinner than the kerf of your blade, that will prevent rear blade kickbacks, and the guard helps as well and keeps your fingers out of the way of the blade"

    Regards

    Bauldy

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Rosslyn Park, Adelaide
    Posts
    182

    Default

    I have not heard of this previously, however it does make some sense.
    I would interpret it more as it says - The fence should not go past the gullet, rather than the bore.
    I note their diagram looks like it aligns with the bore.

    The logic seems correct, as the kickback comes from the back of the blade, particularly if the timber jams between the blade and the fence. If there is no fence at this point, then there should not be a jam.

    The reality is that most fences need to go the length of the table as they either have a slide mechanism on the far end, or some actually lock both ends, so many people set the fence to slightly taper away from the blade at the far end to prevent the binding.

    I also think there is some purpose in having the longer fence to assist with alignment, notwithstanding that it is after the cut, you could get some swivel action with a short fence.

    Will be interesting to get a few other views as my experience is limited relative to many on this forum.

    Regards

    Bauldy

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,757

    Default

    I've used a piece of Al extrusion attached to my fence in the manner described above for quite a few years.

    More of a description in my upgrade to my TS OH guard and dust collection thread.
    Ducting update.
    Ducting update.-ff3nce-jpg
    It works really well - no hint of kickback since I've been using it..

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Stockton
    Posts
    291

    Default

    Bob
    I have been checking out your dust collection thread and will need to refer back to it once I start setting up my dust extraction system. The blade guard looks neat!

    It's good to hear that the "short" fence works without kickback, as Bauldy indicated, it does seem logical that is reduces kick back, given kick back is associated with the back of the blade catching the timber etc etc ....

    I think this will be a good set up, having a combination of short ripping fence, adjustable splinter, blade guard, good push stick and sop's to protect myself! I will sort the splitter before moving onto the blade guard. I have an original art-deco aluminium one which i may modify to incorporate some dust extraction, will probably involve me cutting it in half and lining with perspex etc

    This WFH business has allowed me to get so much good stuff done All my usual travel time has transferred to developing my hobbies!

    Cheers
    Stewart

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    All European saws have a sliding fence and all of the manufcturers have a recommendation of the fence being no further forward than the centre of the arbour. I think there is legislation to enforce this in Europe.
    CHRIS

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,757

    Default

    CuttingNarrowStrips.pdfCuttingNarrowStrips.pdf
    Quote Originally Posted by bunya pine View Post
    Bob
    I have been checking out your dust collection thread and will need to refer back to it once I start setting up my dust extraction system. The blade guard looks neat!

    It's good to hear that the "short" fence works without kickback, as Bauldy indicated, it does seem logical that is reduces kick back, given kick back is associated with the back of the blade catching the timber etc etc ....

    I think this will be a good set up, having a combination of short ripping fence, adjustable splinter, blade guard, good push stick and sop's to protect myself! I will sort the splitter before moving onto the blade guard. I have an original art-deco aluminium one which i may modify to incorporate some dust extraction, will probably involve me cutting it in half and lining with perspex etc

    This WFH business has allowed me to get so much good stuff done All my usual travel time has transferred to developing my hobbies!

    Cheers
    Stewart
    I picked up several 1950's and 60's era TS over the last few years for the mens shed and several of those used a short fence.

    After couple of mens members experienced kickback on the main TS at the mens shed when cutting thin strips I wrote a guide about how to cut narrow strips using a short fence using a bit of wood and clamps and distributed to members. In the 5 odd years I was a regular attendee at the shed I think I saw that approach use one once. I HAVE A ATTACHED A COPY.
    CuttingNarrowStrips.pdf
    Re: OH guard.
    The 3 most important things I uncovered after making and testing half a dozen TS guards over the last few years
    - the back of the guard should be completely open - lets lots of air in to scavenge the dust out.
    - 4" ducting should be used.
    - the dust take of port should be as far forward as practicable and definitely not at the back of the guard.

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