Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 16
Thread: New Shark Guard Blade Protection
-
4th August 2009, 10:55 PM #1Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2002
- Location
- Sydney- Hawkesbury area
- Posts
- 116
New Shark Guard Blade Protection
In the past I have read mention of the Shark Guard on the forum, all good comments.
I only had the standard blade guard as supplied by Robland for my combination machine, which is very poor in the areas of extraction and visibility.
So I did the investigation of the Shark Guard from the States. Lee Styron was great to deal with and makes a first class product. You have to wait a while but it is well worth it.
Fitted on the weekend aand the extraction of waste is 1000% better and you can see the blade in action which is extremely important.
It cost all up with the new splitter designed to fit the Robland NLX310,
the Shark Guard cover, fittings and postage A$200 delivered.
You can have a look at Lee's site at:
http://www.leestyron.com/default.php
Here are some photos as fitted to my combination machine.
PEN
-
4th August 2009 10:55 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
11th May 2020, 02:49 PM #2
Pen
i know it has been a decade since you posted this, do you still have your sharkguard and would you still recommend them? I'm in the process of restoring an old Hyco tablesaw (1950's) , which as a splitter mounted to it and incorporates the blade guard. The sharkguard appears solve all the issues associated with a typical splitter that's not adjustable and solves dust collection issues etc.
Definitely keen to hear your feedback.
Cheers
Stew
-
11th May 2020, 08:13 PM #3
Sorry Stew, PEN hasn't been on for over two years
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
-
11th May 2020, 10:04 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- Auckland, New Zealand
- Posts
- 999
I had a Sharkguard onmy previous saw, I didn’t keep the Sharkguard and sold it with the saw, thereason I didn’t keep it is because my new saw has a much larger guard and it isoverhead.
I would definitelyrecommend Sharkguard by Lee Valley. The dust collection was immediate improvement.You also need a reasonable dust extractor though.
SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12
-
12th May 2020, 11:28 AM #5SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
- Location
- Rosslyn Park, Adelaide
- Posts
- 183
I too like the Sharkguard, although consider it a very expensive luxury, that not everyone could justify.
It definitely improves dust collection and is good quality.
I am not sure that it can "solve all the issues associated with a typical splitter that's not adjustable".
If your current saw only has a Splitter, then the Sharkguard will also be the same as far as I can see. The new Splitter or Riving Knife that comes with it, is just to hold the guard so not sure how you gain any adjustment ability.
I should qualify that mine has a Riving Knife so I am not aware if a Splitter model is any different.
Regards
Bauldy
-
12th May 2020, 11:52 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Location
- In between houses
- Posts
- 1,782
I clicked on that link and it opened six windows and took me to an article about how Dick Smith has made millions from bitcoin and invested it in Russian dating and wife sites? ♂️
-
13th May 2020, 10:56 AM #7
Thanks for the feed back on the sharkguard, i think i will develop my own. Based on the clip below i think i should be able to develop something similar to to this.
YouTube
On my hyco I have a splitter that incorporates a blade guard, it actually moves with the blade as you tilt the arbor, however does not raise and lower with the blade. Where you mount the splitter there is room to make a mounting block and for a blade to move up and down like whats pictured in the clip.
I have attached a couple of photos of my table saw. My original splitter was bent so i had one reproduced in stainless. Since mounting it i can now see some of the limitations, i can only do through cuts, i can't use thin kerf blades and when the blade is being used to make shallow cuts i have a 40-50mm gap between the back of the blade and leading edge of the splitter. With the ability of having vertical adjustment on the splitter, I will be able to keep the gap between the splitter and blade to minimums.
Whats peoples opinion on anti kickback pawls? I've looked at the sharkguard reviews and every single one has them tucked out of the way. Does anyone actually use them? i would rather a damaged work piece them a piece of wood hitting me! Do you think having a splitter/riving knife installed will supersede the need for the pawls?
I look forward to your opinions and ideas.
Whilst we are on the topic, have a look at what this young bloke did to incorporate a riving knife that raises and lowers with the saw blade. I wont be doing this for now but may have a go in the future. I actually want to use my table saw so am trying to come up with a solution in a reasonable amount of time.
YouTube
Cheers
Stew
-
16th May 2020, 10:56 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
- Location
- Rosslyn Park, Adelaide
- Posts
- 183
While in theory the Anti Kickback Pawls should improve safety, I suspect if you have a suitablesplitter/riving knife they do not add much value.
When I ordered the SharkGuard, I was planning on ordering the pawls as well, just in case, as it would be expensive to ship them separately later if I decided I needed them. Lee actually suggested that there was no need so I never did sending the following "The pawls, in my humble opinion, are purely redundant. Most folks buy them for compliance to our government big brother OSHA. If you have the right thickness knife, which needs to be just thinner than the kerf of your blade, that will prevent rear blade kickbacks, and the guard helps as well and keeps your fingers out of the way of the blade"
Regards
Bauldy
-
17th May 2020, 06:51 AM #9
-
21st May 2020, 09:49 AM #10
Bauldy
I have been doing some more reading and searching for standards surrounding table saw usage. I found a summary from the English safety standards.
https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf
The English do not use pawls which supports your opinion. I will make some using an old saw blade and suspect that i will eventually stop using them in time?
I'm now confident i can make an adjustable splitter/riving knife that will allow me to minimise the gap between the back of the blade and front of the riving knife.
An interesting side note, the English standard in the attached link states "To prevent kickback, the front of the fencemust be set no further than the base of the saw bladegullet at table level." I looked at a couple of English sources to make sure my interpretation was correct and I believe they mean that the fence should not extend past the centre of the blade (bore). Does anyone think this a good safety measure and do they actually implement it?
Cheers
Stew
-
21st May 2020, 11:06 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
- Location
- Rosslyn Park, Adelaide
- Posts
- 183
I have not heard of this previously, however it does make some sense.
I would interpret it more as it says - The fence should not go past the gullet, rather than the bore.
I note their diagram looks like it aligns with the bore.
The logic seems correct, as the kickback comes from the back of the blade, particularly if the timber jams between the blade and the fence. If there is no fence at this point, then there should not be a jam.
The reality is that most fences need to go the length of the table as they either have a slide mechanism on the far end, or some actually lock both ends, so many people set the fence to slightly taper away from the blade at the far end to prevent the binding.
I also think there is some purpose in having the longer fence to assist with alignment, notwithstanding that it is after the cut, you could get some swivel action with a short fence.
Will be interesting to get a few other views as my experience is limited relative to many on this forum.
Regards
Bauldy
-
21st May 2020, 11:49 PM #12.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,837
I've used a piece of Al extrusion attached to my fence in the manner described above for quite a few years.
More of a description in my upgrade to my TS OH guard and dust collection thread.
Ducting update.
It works really well - no hint of kickback since I've been using it..
-
22nd May 2020, 02:55 PM #13
Bob
I have been checking out your dust collection thread and will need to refer back to it once I start setting up my dust extraction system. The blade guard looks neat!
It's good to hear that the "short" fence works without kickback, as Bauldy indicated, it does seem logical that is reduces kick back, given kick back is associated with the back of the blade catching the timber etc etc ....
I think this will be a good set up, having a combination of short ripping fence, adjustable splinter, blade guard, good push stick and sop's to protect myself! I will sort the splitter before moving onto the blade guard. I have an original art-deco aluminium one which i may modify to incorporate some dust extraction, will probably involve me cutting it in half and lining with perspex etc
This WFH business has allowed me to get so much good stuff done All my usual travel time has transferred to developing my hobbies!
Cheers
Stewart
-
22nd May 2020, 03:12 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 7,695
All European saws have a sliding fence and all of the manufcturers have a recommendation of the fence being no further forward than the centre of the arbour. I think there is legislation to enforce this in Europe.
CHRIS
-
22nd May 2020, 07:29 PM #15.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,837
CuttingNarrowStrips.pdfCuttingNarrowStrips.pdfI picked up several 1950's and 60's era TS over the last few years for the mens shed and several of those used a short fence.
After couple of mens members experienced kickback on the main TS at the mens shed when cutting thin strips I wrote a guide about how to cut narrow strips using a short fence using a bit of wood and clamps and distributed to members. In the 5 odd years I was a regular attendee at the shed I think I saw that approach use one once. I HAVE A ATTACHED A COPY.
CuttingNarrowStrips.pdf
Re: OH guard.
The 3 most important things I uncovered after making and testing half a dozen TS guards over the last few years
- the back of the guard should be completely open - lets lots of air in to scavenge the dust out.
- 4" ducting should be used.
- the dust take of port should be as far forward as practicable and definitely not at the back of the guard.
Similar Threads
-
Better blade guard for TS10HB
By Waldo in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONSReplies: 9Last Post: 22nd September 2008, 08:51 PM -
Panel Saw Blade Guard
By Cutting Edge in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONSReplies: 3Last Post: 4th March 2008, 01:54 PM -
Replacement Blade Guard
By Bids in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 8Last Post: 1st September 2006, 12:51 PM -
Flying Blade Guard
By spartan in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 13Last Post: 25th April 2006, 01:07 PM